I need a new wheel bolt!

Tommo

Member
 Stoke-on-Trent
hi guys, took my alloys off today to give them a decent clean, came to take th last wheel off.. Was a right pain in the arse to get off, all the bolts came out perfectly but the wheel just wouldn't come off.

Finally did it after a bit of banging about, went to tighten the bolts up. Did all 5 then lowered the car. Went to give each bolt the final twist and one just snapped off in half :x

Question is, where can I get one from? Please don't tell me I have to wait until monday to get one from the stealers because I REALLY need my car tonight. :( They are the 108's by the way if thats any help.
 
If need be you can run on four bolts without it falling off so don't worry, just don't drive like lewis hamilton!
 
Youll be fine without one bolt mate, many cars only have four anyway! I once did a track-day and unknowingly a bolt sheared at some point, there was no critical problems however. Just dont leave it too long and go easy on the conering.

Getting a new one should be easy - dealer or any wheel/trye specialish could help; the important thing is getting the old one's thread out, which will probably entail drilling it out or heating the hub and lots of fiddly screwdriver work :(
 
4 bolts is fine to drive with.

Removal might be ok as there will be enough sticking out when you remove the wheel to put a new one in. I would imagine the bolts have been over torqued in the past. Maybe an idea to replace all of them if they have had that abuse. Measure a new bolt against an old one to see if they have been stretched.
 
I'd be more concerned with getting the broken bolt out? Unless you have already?
 
mr tommo, IMHO it's worth investing in a torque wrench from Machine Mart or Halfords for under £20 :)

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht141-1-2in-drive-torque-wrench/path/
 
Sorry not replied, been checking the thread while Ive been trying to get the snapped thread out.

Managed to get it out with a couple of screwdrivers, took me ages!

Kwik-fit were closed when I rang them so I ended up going down to halfords and picking up a set of locking wheel nuts (£32 :thumbsdown:)

Just had a look at all the other bolts and the majority of them seem stretched to be honest so Im going to be investing in a full set of bolts from bmw on monday. Anyone got an idea of price?

Torque wrench was just suggested by my dad too so I'll be gettin one on monday. How do I know what setting to tighten them to?

Cheers guys.
 
Torque settings - someone on here will know, just pick one up that does the range in the Machine Mart link above [28 to 210 Nm (20 to 154 ft/lb) operating range] my SLK is 84.

Bolts - they'll be dear, I wouldn't expect much change out of £40 TBH :(
 
:( Think I will just replace the front then was only replacing the rears for the hell of it.

Theres a machine mart a couple of minutes away so I'll pop down tomorrow.

Thanks pvr!

Dilema over, thought Id have to turn up to my dates in my mums car!! Shock, horror! :P
 
On the subject of wheel bolts.

What locking bolts would you guys recommend?

I have non at the moment and however unlikely it is that my wheels will get stolen, better safe than sorry.

I noticed the bolts I have are matt black rather than the shiney silver finish of most on sale. Is this standard? can I get a matching locking bolt?

Are the cheap sets on ebay just a waste of time and likely to snap or deform?
 
Expect expensive . I paid £5.50 for a single wheel nut for a Ford Ka that should be the cheapest car in the UK!!!
 
I had a bolt break just before our trip to HC08. Had to drill a hole in it to get an 'Easy Out' in it. It came right out. Very little torque required.

The torque for the wheel bolts are 87lbs or 120Nm +/- 10Nm.
 
I've heard good things about RAD brand lug bolts. Apparently they are cold forged and tempered to strength class 10.9 or 10. They also sell wheel locking bolts too.

I myself have a set of McGard wheel locking bolts (p/n 27178; 12mm X 1.5, 25.5mm). These ones have a black face to match the black bolts you have.

Of course, any type of wheel locks are penetrable, but they deter the amateur wheel stealers.
 
Glad to here you got them out OK.

As said above and by your dad a torque wrench is a good idea and you will be suprised how easy to undo properly torqued wheel bolts is which just shows how many of the tyre fitters over tighten them.

The McGard locking nuts mentioned above i had on my last car for years no probs just do not buy the 3 pin jobs i bought years ago the holes stretch out of shape and ended up having to use an impact wrench to get them off.

Have the BMW locking nuts on my Z
 
A good tip is to add a smear of copper grease to the stud threads.Allows you to torque up the bolt without a binding or grabbing issue.Also stops bolts seizing and potentially shearing.
 
*AL* said:
A good tip is to add a smear of copper grease to the stud threads.Allows you to torque up the bolt without a binding or grabbing issue.Also stops bolts seizing and potentially shearing.

Al, this can be a great idea for preventing seizing, but care needs to be taken as it allows the wheels to be massivly overtorqued. Many manufactureres specify their torque based upon 'dry' bolts. I don't think in 30 years I've ever seen a seized wheel bolt or nut. Cross threaded, stretched, etc. for sure.
 
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