How-To: Refurbish an MSport Steering Wheel

Rix said:
Looking good! I'm on the look out for a mfsw - seems like I might to be cautious with buying one which is damaged. The silver finish definitely seems to be more robust than the later rubberised stuff.
Thanks!
I think they all tend to be potentially damaged, as the plastic clips are super brittle with age. Just lots of slow deconstruction required :lol:
 
inkey$ said:
grannyknot said:
I went through the same procedure as you removing the rubber coating, previous owner had broken plastic receiving nuts so had to epoxy those back in.
I painted all the trim pieces but wasn't happy with the finish so this winter removed them all and covered them with black vinyl wrap, much happier with the results.
Good shout on vinyl wrap, although I’m guessing the button units were tricky. I’m leaning towards not painting them at all actually. The finish is black satin so feels like overkill to prime, paint and lacquer.
The button units are the last pieces you do so you are well versed in the stretching techniques, although I removed the electronic units and buttons so it was a lot easier getting the wrap around.
 
Started using the Furniture Clinic steering wheel kit today. Clean the leather first, then degrease and sand with 320 grit. Followed by another clean and a few coats of leather binder, before 1200 grit sandpaper.

The top of the wheel was still a little grainy, so I’ve taken that back again with 320, 1200 and leather binder. Doesn’t seem to want to sand down smooth for some reason. Going to leave it to dry and sand down again using 1200 to see how it looks then before testing part of it with the repair paint.

Otherwise, should I add leather filler and sand back? Instructions talk of the leather being ‘fibrous or rough’ at this stage, so I’ve added 5 coats of the leather binder to see if that settles the area down for some follow up 1200 grit light sanding.


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The 5 coats of leather binder worked a treat. Left it to dry and it effectively filled and stuck down any fibrous texture. Sanded using 800, 1000 then 1200 lightly before dusting down and applying a few layers of colourant.

Its not perfect, and I will add a couple more layers tomorrow, but very pleased with the results so far…

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:thumbsup: Looks like a great improvement

Where do you get all that time from :D
 
So....I'm going to spray the buttons and plastic trim before reconstructing the steering wheel. Seen lots of threads with varying degrees of success when it comes to doing this. Don't want to wrap the plastics or use plastikote, so what would people suggest in terms of painting?

- Plastic primer, Matt Black paint, matt lacquer? - If so, how many coats would you recommend?
 
inkey$ said:
So....I'm going to spray the buttons and plastic trim before reconstructing the steering wheel. Seen lots of threads with varying degrees of success when it comes to doing this. Don't want to wrap the plastics or use plastikote, so what would people suggest in terms of painting?

- Plastic primer, Matt Black paint, matt lacquer? - If so, how many coats would you recommend?

I've done mine last year, and used the following method:
Sand down and use IPA 3-4 times to make sure you've degreased everything properly. Let the parts sit for a bit after to make sure all solvents have evaporated completely. Apply a thin coat of plastic primer, let it harden for at least 24 hours. I then used matte black ColourLock and applied a few thin coats, taking your time to build up an even finish. No lacquer was required. The exact number of layers I can't remember, but isn't strictly relevant. Just use thin coats, letting it sit in between for a bit and build up to the required finish. Beats slathering on 3 thick coats :wink:

I had access to an airbrush to apply the paint, but an effective alternative is Innotec Matt Black paint which comes in a can. I used that for the glasses holder on my headliner (as it was beige) and the finish is superb. Innotec isn't exactly cheap, but it's durable and has a nice finish.

The results:
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Wow! What a finish! Thansk for the advice. I’ve already ordered Hicote primer, paint and matt finish lacquer so will follow your instructions when it all arrives. Sand paper wise, are we talking 320 or finer?
 
Keyed and ready for paint...

Two coats of each...24 hours after primer = paint and lacquer.

Hycote Primer: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003MI8996/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hycote Matt Black: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003MI0JOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hycote Matt Lacquer: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KAH1WKO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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After leaving the plastic primer 24 hours, I then added three coats of matt black paint, before two coats of matt lacquer. Will leave to dry for a few days before reconstructing the wheel.

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