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How to: Expansion tank and Radiator replacement

Ducklakeview

Lifer
Merseyside
Ok, so my car has lost a little bit of coolant, say a pint every 1000 miles since I got it. Finally got around to sorting it as I noticed a drip from the expansion tank whilst underneath it last week. I also noticed that the bottom of the rad had bowed quite a bit, causing the lower bracket that holds the bottom of the fan shroud and the oil cooler mounting plate in place to not hold them securely.

So ordered a tank (Behr) and a rad (Hella) from euro, as well as the transmission cooler thermostat (auto's only) from Euro and set about it on Friday night.

Took plenty of pics, so here we go..

Bottom of my rad bowed;

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Firstly, this is best done with the engine cold/cool, last thing you need is to scald yourself!

Remove the undertray (12 x 8mm torx bolts) and put to one side.

Then you need to remove the 8 x plastic rivets that hold the plastic cover above the rad pack - These have a No2 philips head that unscrews, allowing you to lever them out;

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You#ll also need to remove the 2 x T30 torx bolts at the sides, these do have a habit of corroding on the exposed underside of the threads, as the are is in the flow of rain etc, so I gave them a squirt of release agent the dat before, from through the front grilles and they came out easily;




Then you can pull the panel off, revealing the A/C condenser, radiator and fan;




Remove the fan power connector by squeezing the sides and pulling it free;


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BE CAREFUL with the fine green wire, it's the fan speed sense wire, and if you break it, your AC will stop working (I've had a couple of cars where this has corroded at the connector causing this too)

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Remove the clips securing the top hose to the tank, this has 2 connectors, so lever up the clips and pull it free;

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There is another hose on the back of the tank, this is released in the same way, you then need to pull out the retaining clip that secures the lower part of the tank to the cooler mounting plate, DON'T thorow away this clip as it's needed for the new tank, also the white coolant level sensor also needs to be removed and swapped, this DOESN'T have a seal on it, as it sits in a sealed pocket, sensing the position of the magnet on the float inside;

Clip locked and opened;

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You can then pull the tank free;



Continued in next post as reached max pics..

Mike
 

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Tank free;

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And the leak - a tiny pinhole pop;

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Out with the fan;


Remove the plastic rivet on one side, and the torx bolt on the other, disconnect that small elec connector in the pic below;

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And you can pull up and remove the fan;

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Remove the torx bolts from the side and bottom of the cooler mounting plate, you can clearly see the corrosion that causes the plastic top cover fixing bolts to seize in the 2nd pic;

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You can then unhook the cooling plate from the top of the rad, and either pull it out (manual) or leave it hanging on the cooler hoses (auto) I removed the cooler from mine, as I anted to replace the thermostat in it;

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Cooler mount plate and old/new gearbox fluid thermostat;

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Next post... Pic limit reached again..

Mike
 
Disconnect the lower hose on the drivers side, and you can now pull up and remove the radiator itself, finally...

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Mine was a sorry state, so glad I replaced it;

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Refitting is a reverse of removal, however I use a special tool for filling, as these engines, and more so the later ones are susceptible to airlocks.

First the vacuum filling tool is attached to the radiator;

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The airline is attached to the compressed air vacuum pump and the tap is opened, this allows the system to be placed under a vacuum, kind of weird watching the hoses collapse!

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The idea is to remove ALL of the air in the system, you then close the valve and remove the airline. Wait for a couple of minutes and see if the vacuum drops, indicating a leak.


After that, you connect the hose to the vacuum port, and submerge that in new ready mixed coolant. When you open the valve, the vacuum "sucks" coolant into all the nooks and crannies, and no air locks!

[youtube]7nOb4o4Z-4Q[/youtube]

Run engine up to temp, top up coolant, replace bottom cover and job done in a couple of hours.

Mike
 
MrPT said:
Informative as ever. :thumbsup:

Have you received the replacement fan pack? Only ask I’ve got a new one in my garage that I’d part with for forum rates!

Cheers m8, only replaced the rad, tank and thermostat, was typing rest of post up when you replied :)

Mike
 
Ducklakeview said:
MrPT said:
Informative as ever. :thumbsup:

Have you received the replacement fan pack? Only ask I’ve got a new one in my garage that I’d part with for forum rates!

Cheers m8, only replaced the rad, tank and thermostat, was typing rest of post up when you replied :)

Mike

Ah, proper balls up now - edited my post when I realised but then you quoted it! No worries, then. :)
 
MrPT said:
Ducklakeview said:
MrPT said:
Informative as ever. :thumbsup:

Have you received the replacement fan pack? Only ask I’ve got a new one in my garage that I’d part with for forum rates!

Cheers m8, only replaced the rad, tank and thermostat, was typing rest of post up when you replied :)

Mike

Ah, proper balls up now - edited my post when I realised but then you quoted it! No worries, then. :)


No probs lol..

Mike
 
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