how much for a clutch ?

road warrior

Senior member
 Burton On trent
i seem to be getting close to the top of the clutch pedal, no slip, all perfect, but i feel its coming so what does it cost ?
 
A clutch kit itself is probably only around £150, plus say the same again for labour. In reality you may want to change the flywheel while the box is off too, and that costs around £250-300 just for the part I believe. DMFs arent cheap!
 
Just looked at Euros for an M clutch kit £280 then you will need a new release bearing, clutch fluid topped up and as said above the flywheel is probably passed its best I would and will when my time comes go for a single mass flywheel you would also need new flywheel bolts and possibly a new bearing that fils inside the crank that supports the gearbox input shaft.


Labour wise it is a good days work as either the engine or gearbox has to come out and all the indies that I have asked it is the gearbox as it is easier (unless the engine needs to come out for something else at the same time)

So the interior trim to be removed around the gear stick etc. prop shaft out of the way or off altogether you then start looking are new bolts there as well, sub frames around the gearbox off and then support the gearbox release it from the engine and slide it back, lower it to the ground and you can now see the clutch etc

So labour cost 8 hours at £60 per hour £480
 
£600 or so sounds about right. Depends on you mileage (or rather the cars! ) and how hard you are on the clutch/flywheel as to whether you need the flywheel or not. Any doubt change it, rather than have to go in again.
 
The clutch is self-adjusting. Pedal travel should not change. If it is, then look at hydraulics first. Bleeding clutch fluid might be a £10 fix.
 
Liam22 said:
The clutch is self-adjusting. Pedal travel should not change. If it is, then look at hydraulics first. Bleeding clutch fluid might be a £10 fix.
As I say, the pedal engagement point is close to the top these days , are you saying bleeding the clutch will move its engagement point further down the travel?
 
If there is air in the system you have to compress the air first then push the hydraulic oil along the pipe to operate the clutch so that could well be you issue.
 
PDJ said:
If there is air in the system you have to compress the air first then push the hydraulic oil along the pipe to operate the clutch so that could well be you issue.

But would that not cause clutch engagement to be closer to the bottom?
 
I read it is the biting point is nearer to the bulkhead, so could be air in the system if road warrior means nearer the top as in nearer the rest position of the pedal then maybe not airing the system.
 
I reckon it's an age thing. As we get older we all shrink a bit, so it's just moving the clutch closer to the old guy :poke: :D
 
enuff_zed said:
PDJ said:
If there is air in the system you have to compress the air first then push the hydraulic oil along the pipe to operate the clutch so that could well be you issue.

But would that not cause clutch engagement to be closer to the bottom?

This ^^ air in the system would cause more pedal travel before disengagement and less travel to engage :thumbsup:
Rob
 
When i first passed my test, my dad who was a driving instructor back in the day, used to slap my knee if i was riding the clutch.

Perhaps all you need is a f@cking good SLAP!!
 
tug said:
When i first passed my test, my dad who was a driving instructor back in the day, used to slap my knee if i was riding the clutch.

Perhaps all you need is a f@cking good SLAP!!
Feck off :rofl:
 
There is no air in the system, as I say, there is no clutch slip, but I only have to push the pedal slightly maybe 1/2 an inch and it disengages. So very close to the top NOT bottom. Hence the price enquiries, of course, as its a shopping trolley it could last for ages yet so really asking for ideas on who to take it to.
 
There is no air in the system, as I say, there is no clutch slip, but I only have to push the pedal slightly maybe 1/2 an inch and it disengages. So very close to the top NOT bottom. Hence the price enquiries, of course, as its a shopping trolley it could last for ages yet so really asking for ideas on who to take it to.
 
I was quoted just over a grand for a new flywheel, clutch and labour. If you're removing the gearbox to change the clutch, you might aswell replace the flywheel at the same time. Makes no financial sense to just do the clutch, if you're going to keep your car for a long time.
 
Remind me here folks, what the bloody hell is a duel mass clutch thingy, and how did we get to a stage when we replaced flywheels ever - never mind as a matter of course now? :o
 
Because BMW put a bit of rubber between two flywheels to take up the shock of dropping the clutch (mainly because the americans can’t drive a manual car ) and this then wears out! :roll:
 
Jl-c said:
Because BMW put a bit of rubber between two flywheels to take up the shock of dropping the clutch (mainly because the americans can’t drive a manual car ) and this then wears out! :roll:

Ah, and there was me thinking it meant you had to go to communion twice on a Sunday before you could change gear :D
 
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