Help please, new battery advice

Hi guys, if I need a new battery for my ///M which of these 2 would be best?

From car batteries online,

Bosch 0092S40 050, 60AH and coldest 540A , it's £60

Bosch 0092S50 080, 77AH and coldtest 780A, it's £81

Any advice greatly appreciated , cheers :thumbsup:
 
I recently replaced mine, searching here showed it really should be an AGM type battery.
With is Boschs SO6 range, and costs about £120 for the right spec one for an M.
 
Herminator said:
I recently replaced mine, searching here showed it really should be an AGM type battery.
With is Boschs SO6 range, and costs about £120 for the right spec one for an M.


Thanks Herminator, the ones I posted are recommended for the ///M, do you know what would be wrong with those, would they cause damage? :cry:
 
Don't know how much of this is bull and how much is technically sound, but the BMW website states:

Note: When your vehicle has already been fitted with AGM technology ex works, your battery must never be replaced with another technology. The power consumption of a calcium battery is too slow to be used in these vehicles.

And on another forum there's this post:
I've seen a lot of confusing information posted about battery replacement, registration, and what it means. I recently had a conversation with a very helpful BMW tech about this, and here's what I learned:

There are two kinds of batteries BMW uses - standard and AGM (Advanced Glass Mat, like Optima, Odyssey, and Kinetic).

The white ones are standard, the black ones are AGM.

Each type of battery has a "charging map" that BMW has created from research. This changes the characteristics of the alternator's output depending on how long the battery has been in the vehicle. This "timer" is what starts when you register the new battery. There are also different maps for batteries of different amp/hour capacities.

HOWEVER:

The car can only hold one "map" at a time. If you have a standard battery (which my car came with) and you upgrade to an AGM battery (which is what I did), then the registration process is NOT sufficient. Your car doesn't have the right map to use for an AGM battery!

You need to recode the car to tell it that you have a AGM battery, so that you can download the new charging map into it, and THEN it knows what to do.

This is also true if your car came with a black AGM battery, and you have downgraded to a standard type battery. You now need to get the car coded for the new battery.

Even if you change from one battery to another of the same type, if one has more amp/hour capacity than the other, then recoding is needed. The maps are also different for batteries with different amp/hour ratings.
 
Can't remember exactly what I got, but I got mine (non branded) from europarts. Still cost me £130 but the replacement Bosch one was £180. So Bosch for £80 is a fantastic deal :thumbsup:
 
I can imagine they do have different characteristics. The Bosch one I bought had "stop start technology" written on it, so I guess it's more robust for repeated quick engine reignitions.
 
Here's what I ordered at the best price I could find.

http://www.carbatteriesonline.co.uk/details/BMW/Z4/3.2/2007/__/137/S6008/battery

Not cheap but atleast it should last 5+ years.
 
Thanks mmm-five, I suppose I had better check which type I have on first, seems a right palava just to change a battery, I wonder how many people have the wrong type on their cars and if there have been any subsequent issues?
 
Herminator said:
Here's what I ordered at the best price I could find.

http://www.carbatteriesonline.co.uk/details/BMW/Z4/3.2/2007/__/137/S6008/battery

Not cheap but atleast it should last 5+ years.


Thanks Herminator :thumbsup:
 
After you've got the battery cover off (three bolts under the foam and compressor) the hardest bit for me was working out how to unclamp the positive terminal connector. I couldn't see how to flip open the plastic cover until I took a photo to post on here and ask how. It was easy once I'd seen what needed doing.
 
How much is the battery from the dealer? In the past I have found they were actually competitive.
 
I went through all this about 8 weeks ago..

AGM battery for the Z4M...

Its the amount of CCA that seems to be the sticking point,i know with mine that already had a 5 month old lead acid battery,it would lose the clock,display upon cranking.

This was due to the high ampage the starter was taking on cranking the car....So all power was reduced from non essentials to make the car start..

A lead acid will work,but it wont be correct you will run into problems down the line..
 
Z4M-2006 said:
I went through all this about 8 weeks ago..

AGM battery for the Z4M...

Its the amount of CCA that seems to be the sticking point,i know with mine that already had a 5 month old lead acid battery,it would lose the clock,display upon cranking.

This was due to the high ampage the starter was taking on cranking the car....So all power was reduced from non essentials to make the car start..

A lead acid will work,but it wont be correct you will run into problems down the line..

AGM it is then!! Thanks all for your imput, invaluable info :thumbsup:
 
Darren Slone said:
Hi guys, if I need a new battery for my ///M which of these 2 would be best?

From car batteries online,

Bosch 0092S40 050, 60AH and coldest 540A , it's £60

Bosch 0092S50 080, 77AH and coldtest 780A, it's £81

Any advice greatly appreciated , cheers :thumbsup:

The numbers are simple to understand

ah is how long the battery will maintain a constant discharge

And cold crank is how much current the battery can supply at a certain temp (0 degrees I think) for 30 secs

All you need to know really is what size battery your m needs


mmm-five said:
Don't know how much of this is bull and how much is technically sound, but the BMW website states:

Note: When your vehicle has already been fitted with AGM technology ex works, your battery must never be replaced with another technology. The power consumption of a calcium battery is too slow to be used in these vehicles.

And on another forum there's this post:
I've seen a lot of confusing information posted about battery replacement, registration, and what it means. I recently had a conversation with a very helpful BMW tech about this, and here's what I learned:

There are two kinds of batteries BMW uses - standard and AGM (Advanced Glass Mat, like Optima, Odyssey, and Kinetic).

The white ones are standard, the black ones are AGM.

Each type of battery has a "charging map" that BMW has created from research. This changes the characteristics of the alternator's output depending on how long the battery has been in the vehicle. This "timer" is what starts when you register the new battery. There are also different maps for batteries of different amp/hour capacities.

HOWEVER:

The car can only hold one "map" at a time. If you have a standard battery (which my car came with) and you upgrade to an AGM battery (which is what I did), then the registration process is NOT sufficient. Your car doesn't have the right map to use for an AGM battery!

You need to recode the car to tell it that you have a AGM battery, so that you can download the new charging map into it, and THEN it knows what to do.

This is also true if your car came with a black AGM battery, and you have downgraded to a standard type battery. You now need to get the car coded for the new battery.

Even if you change from one battery to another of the same type, if one has more amp/hour capacity than the other, then recoding is needed. The maps are also different for batteries with different amp/hour ratings.

That's only true if your cars have ibs (intelligent battery system)

Also a little bit of that is rubbish
If the ratings have changed all its going to do is change how long it takes to charge again either making it faster or slower

However if you have a normal battery and you change to a agm or viser versa it's probably best to either stick with what you have or get it programmed
The charging characteristics are different for both types


Only bmw can think up such stupidness, batteries have charged fine for years just front the alternator with no 'map'


Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
 
pvr said:
Would make a good sticky to have the exact requirement for the M listed. :thumbsup:

Could do it for all of them

Although they are probably the same batteries at least the 3.0 and the m will be

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
 
Herminator said:
After you've got the battery cover off (three bolts under the foam and compressor) the hardest bit for me was working out how to unclamp the positive terminal connector. I couldn't see how to flip open the plastic cover until I took a photo to post on here and ask how. It was easy once I'd seen what needed doing.
i need this, where is this info?
 
Back
Top Bottom