Help need pinout for convertible module

[Ericdiver]

00A68D is the hall sensor code, I got a new one, unplugged all hall sensors until one didn’t change that code, or add more, so I changed that sensor, no change my top seems like it’s about to fully close but when it’s about to put the last part down (glass part) it stops and dings.... so I started to check continuity and all sensors have good continuity until I get to the red wired sensor on the lower hall, however I ran the red directly with it’s brown match (they are on top of each other with the other sensors) and all but this one are good... but neither the red or brown have any continuity on any wire... sooo I am in of the pinout at the module to see which pins work the hall sensors, at the plug they are all close together.... so it’s strange

 

[tintoverano]

this is the main page of the CTM in the repair manual, you'll find everything related there

 

[tintoverano]

please post picts of what you found and what you did to fix the problem

cheers

 

[Ericdiver]

I downloaded the whole manual off eBay for $15 5000 pages on the z4 I found the pinouts, I rotated all hall sensors with a new one in hand, problem stayed the same the whole time, I have double checked that all wires are not broken to the top module. I even unplugged each sensor to see if codes are more or the same and I just get way more as I unplug each one so I imagine they are all fine, starting to think it may be a Microswitch? But that would not make sense, Carly would see that?? It says clamping bracket in locked.... I am going to see if I can trick sensors with magnets, maybe I have a bad piston that inside the magnet or whatever is stuck??

 

[Ericdiver]

I am not sure how to post pics on this forum, but I will post the answer when I find it nothing more annoying then when people forget to do that

 

[tintoverano]

I downloaded the whole manual off eBay for $15

well, it is free online and part of ISTA too

Microswitch? But that would not make sense, Carly would see that??

I believe Carly would see any error codes

 

[Ericdiver]

Well just discovered there are 5 hall sensors, not 4 that most have said online.. so hopefully it is this last one when I find it is the issue

 

[Ericdiver]

I downloaded the whole manual off eBay for $15

well, it is free online and part of ISTA too

Microswitch? But that would not make sense, Carly would see that??

Yes, when I am frustrated already $15 is nothing to get it right way

I believe Carly would see any error codes

 

[tintoverano]

Well just discovered there are 5 hall sensors, not 4 that most have said online.. so hopefully it is this last one when I find it is the issue

please include the pict from realoem.com or else, so we can see where the 5th is

 

[Ericdiver]

Well just discovered there are 5 hall sensors, not 4 that most have said online.. so hopefully it is this last one when I find it is the issue

please include the pict from realoem.com or else, so we can see where the 5th is

Well one piston (bottom one that operates trunk lift has two)

 

[flybobbie]

Surely the 5th hall sensor is the roof protector down near the boot floor, below the keyhole shaped plastic thingy.

Looks like all the adverts has killed RealOEM.

 

[Ericdiver]

Ok I fixed this problem as many have wrote it is 90% of the time the wires and not the sensor, these tops come off super easy with 6 bolts (3 perside) THIS CODE IS A MICROSWITCH. So annoying nothing to do with the hall sensors The scanner said nothing about micro switches just a hall sensor like 4 times.... the passenger Microswitch wire snapped at the bending point, soooo check your wires first, I ordered 20gauge 100 strand Silicon wire by BN tech go and going to Solider it in.... upgraded and better... and wow I tore this top apart I know every sensor and part of this top

 

[tintoverano]

no pictures, where the wire got broken?

 

[Ericdiver]

no pictures, where the wire got broken?

I will try what is a good free image Host

 

[tintoverano]

upload here as attachment, no need to overthink this

 

[Ericdiver]

Ok the red circles the spots that break I had two, the Microswitch completely broken in two at the tighter bend... hobby wire is super bendy and made in silicon and 20g and it is a great upgrade to the factory stuff just make sure you don’t solder in a spot that takes any kind of bending, I also moved the clamp from bottom to top to lessen the bend but I will see if that rubs when I put the top back on

 

[Ericdiver]

The yellow was the other way before it’s “less” bent in this pic

 

[Ericdiver]

All said and done I am annoyed Carly in the “code” did not mention once Microswitch as when you unplug either one of these “micro switches” I can get the code on and off now both sides that’s says in the pic, has it even has one line that said anything about a Microswitch I would have has this issue solved in a hour, these codes pictured below are with both window top micro switches unplugged, and yes ONE does say Microswitch that is not the one I have originally having issues, mine was the D one

 

[tintoverano]

thanks for the picts

it is getting together now, right?

I wouldn't use Carly for advanced fault finding, fixing ...

it is a beginner app for coding your lights and stuff

use INPA, ISTA, ...

 

[Ericdiver]

Yes I have Ipna on my older laptop, lessen was learned, however My advise for top issues you really don’t need any code checker sensors rarely fail just check the wiring in the bends first then if they are all good, then I would worry about codes, one good thing I know the top well. The new wire doesn’t come in until Monday but at this point it will only take a hour to get it back to together, I removed a bad tint job on the glass while to the top was removed, ammonia, black bag and sunlight for a hour was super effective.