Coventry
Hi! I've just paid the deposit on a 2004 Z4 2.2i. It has done 74k miles, one owner, but has been garaged for the last four years. The dealer will repair the convertible hood motor and carry out a general service. Mechanically it appears to be in good condition, but it needs a little cosmetic work. Any suggestions or tips are welcome!
Hello, just paid the deposit on a Z4.
- Thread starter fmbnd
- Start date
Congratulations on your new purchase!!
Cosmetics aside as it’s a 22 year old car and it’s been sat for 4 years I would be looking to assess and probably replace
Tyres
Suspension (if still original)
Braking parts especially fluid
Fluids including diff and gearbox
I’d also check the airbag system hasn’t got issues with a scan, that there is no damp and the door membranes are in good order.
Cosmetics aside as it’s a 22 year old car and it’s been sat for 4 years I would be looking to assess and probably replace
Tyres
Suspension (if still original)
Braking parts especially fluid
Fluids including diff and gearbox
I’d also check the airbag system hasn’t got issues with a scan, that there is no damp and the door membranes are in good order.
Agree with all the above.
If possible, get it scanned for codes. Possibly someone on here can assist if they are nearby.
If there are absolutely no codes showing, then suspect that the dealer has reset them already, so you may get some surprises down the road.
Look at the pipe that fits between the long plastic intake pipe and the throttle body on the passenger sie of the engine. There is a smaller corrugated pipe on the top of it. Prone to splitting which upsets the mixture.
Check when you turn the ignition on that the airbag light comes on for a few seconds, then goes out. If it doesn't light up it has been taped over and you have a potentially expensive problem.
Regarding the roof motor; ask if the dealer will be relocating it into the boot. If they intend to put it back in the dark, wet hole, then I'd suggest negotiate a bit off the price and get one of us to sort it for you.
Following up on the damp comment: don't just check the top of the carpets as these dry quickly. Push the seats forward, find the join in the carpet and slide your hand right in underneath. The foam underneath holds a lot of water and damp under there will kill the airbag modules and the yaw sensor.
If possible, get it scanned for codes. Possibly someone on here can assist if they are nearby.
If there are absolutely no codes showing, then suspect that the dealer has reset them already, so you may get some surprises down the road.
Look at the pipe that fits between the long plastic intake pipe and the throttle body on the passenger sie of the engine. There is a smaller corrugated pipe on the top of it. Prone to splitting which upsets the mixture.
Check when you turn the ignition on that the airbag light comes on for a few seconds, then goes out. If it doesn't light up it has been taped over and you have a potentially expensive problem.
Regarding the roof motor; ask if the dealer will be relocating it into the boot. If they intend to put it back in the dark, wet hole, then I'd suggest negotiate a bit off the price and get one of us to sort it for you.
Following up on the damp comment: don't just check the top of the carpets as these dry quickly. Push the seats forward, find the join in the carpet and slide your hand right in underneath. The foam underneath holds a lot of water and damp under there will kill the airbag modules and the yaw sensor.
Thanks for the answers. I will take a look at the points you mentioned.
He will move the motor to the boot.
I don't think there will be any error codes as he may have reset them when he replaced the battery. I was able to do a cold start when I visited and it seemed fine.
The guy had three other Z4s there and seemed to know what he was doing, but that could be a problem if he knows how to hide the issues
He will move the motor to the boot.
I don't think there will be any error codes as he may have reset them when he replaced the battery. I was able to do a cold start when I visited and it seemed fine.
The guy had three other Z4s there and seemed to know what he was doing, but that could be a problem if he knows how to hide the issues
At the end of the day, it's an old car and will have issues. You're in the right place to help get things fixed.
Out of interest where is the dealer based?
Volks Cars, Kidderminster. It looks all right, maybe a little 'off the radar'
Gloucester
I bought a an airbag module of that guy at a seriously good price.. he seems to be a flipper of Z4s and sells parts. He advertises on marketplace too .. Did you buy the silver one he had up owned by a doctor?
Yes, that one
The guy just messaged me to say that the person who was supposed to move the roof motor to the boot has had some health issues, so the car won't be available tomorrow as agreed. He offered to return my deposit. I just don't know whether to make an offer to reduce the price and do it myself, or look for another car.
If Alan in Bristol is still doing the relocation for about £150, I’d ask the seller to knock a couple of hundred quid off and crack on. Assuming the rest of the car checks out and you can sort that out later
Yes, he agreed to reduce it. I'm just making sure that he has completed all the work that he said he would do. Hopefully, I will post pictures of the car tomorrow. Does the roof work manually (i mean the latch mechanism)?
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I don't know, he offered to return my deposit, but I insisted on getting the car even without the roof sorted. I sent a message to another one in Leicester that looks fine, just in case. I really need a car now as my other car is currently unavailable.
ivanchen1211
Member
Relocating motor is a doable DIY job actually....but will take you a day if you have to proper pry bar and tools
Oooh no! Don't use the pry bar method. So much chance of dislodging or breaking off the 'down' hall sensor.
When you realise that the plastic casing is secured to the LH hinge with a self-tapping screw, you will understand that 'all you need to do is snap the cable ties' is a hugely misleading and potentially costly error. You are actually having to break a 5mm square section plastic strip and then pull hard enough to get it out from under the screw head. If this lets go fast then the casing is propelled upwards into the hall sensor.
Admittedly I've done a few dozen now, but yesterday I did a complete relocation, from start to finish, in under an hour. That included letting my aircraft engineering OCD have its head with regard to the unstressed alignment of the hydraulic pipes, securing the motor in the boot and hiding it behind a piece of genuine carpet.
@Number5 showed me the best method to relocate it, which completely does away with any form of 'agricultural engineering'.
I would highly recommend that rather than follow the YouTube Yee-Haa approach, you visit Alan and get it done neatly and with zero risk of introducing other issues.