HEATER PROBLEM

I also have the same problem and reading all through most of the other older posts no one seems to have came up with a definitive answer.
 
What worries me if I take it to a garage for diagnostic and repair. I think this would be one of those jobs where parts are just replaced "until" it get resolved... and I need a mortgage extension.
 
I've sorted mine, over the last few days all heaters have been hot. It's a welcome change. I have previously done a coolant change and bled the system but it was still the same.

This time I pulled the drain plugs by the bottom of the res tank and drained. Popped off the 2 pipes going into the cabin and flushed them both ways with the hose. Also flushed both internal matrix pipes both ways.

I then switched the heater matrix pipes around.

Put the drain plugs back in and jacked the passenger front of the car ready to bleed. Remove bleed screw, slowly fill until coolant comes out of bleed screw.

Ignition to position 2 don't start the car, heater set to hot, fan speed low. Watch the bleed screw until bubbles stop coming out of bleed screw ( mine was about 15 mins). Bleed screw back in.

Cap back on and start the car. I run the car for about 30 mins and I could then feel the heaters actually work all together.

I then left it to cool for an hour and then switched the heater matrix pipes around to the correct way and done the position 2 bleed again, but no bubbles actually came out this time.

Now every heater is back in action and piping hot.

Remember to check the coolant level the next day when cold.
:thumbsup:
 
philt99 said:
I've sorted mine, over the last few days all heaters have been hot. It's a welcome change. I have previously done a coolant change and bled the system but it was still the same.

This time I pulled the drain plugs by the bottom of the res tank and drained. Popped off the 2 pipes going into the cabin and flushed them both ways with the hose. Also flushed both internal matrix pipes both ways. Put the drain plugs back in and jacked the passenger front of the car ready to bleed. Remove bleed screw, slowly fill until coolant comes out of bleed screw.

Ignition to position 2 don't start the car, heater set to hot, fan speed low. Watch the bleed screw until bubbles stop coming out of bleed screw ( mine was about 15 mins). Bleed screw back in.

Cap back on and start the car. I run the car for about 30 mins and I could then feel the heaters actually work all together.

I then left it to cool for an hour and then switched the heater matrix pipes around to the correct way and done the position 2 bleed again, but no bubbles actually came out this time.

Now every heater is back in action and piping hot.

Remember to check the coolant level the next day when cold.
:thumbsup:

Brilliant, great result. Thanks very much for your write up, I’ll give this ago.
Was there much crud come out of the heater matrix?
 
No the flush was very clear to my surprise. Just re-read my post again. As I edited a bit in.

Main fix though is switching the matrix pipes and running I think. Remember to switch back.
 
philt99 said:
No the flush was very clear to my surprise. Just re-read my post again. As I edited a bit in.

Main fix though is switching the matrix pipes and running I think. Remember to switch back.
Ok Thanks :thumbsup:
 
I’ve had a Luke warm heater since I rebuilt my car from a wreck. New pump and thermostat so not that. I’m going to try this I think.
I don’t really understand the inner workings of the cooling system but how could swapping the pipes over help?
 
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