Handling issue.

Mr Tidy said:
I hope some hear helps - I ended up having both track-rods replaced on mine when I got an alignment done as they were seized solid. :(
I've had to replace both inner and outer front tie rods on a couple of cars. Actually very easy to do and guarantees no problems with alignment.
The same goes for the eccentric camber bolt and washer on the rear.
It is also worth removing the three bolts that hold the RTAB housing (one at a time) and giving them a slight dab of grease, then try to spray some Plusgas, or similar, between the housing and the bodywork so it can slide more easily for adjustment.
Oh and assuming you don't go to any of the idiots who claim camber cannot be adjusted, whip out the camber pins on the front top mounts too.
 
j3nks79 said:
Check front lower arm rear bushes and ball joints.
Check inner rack joints and track rod ends.
Check rear trailing arm bushes.

With these bits am I just looking for obvious signs of corrosion and excessive movement?
I’ve been looking on YouTube, but can anyone please post any pictures or diagrams with the parts identified?
I’m getting these parts and terms mixed up.
Thanks
 
Some pics, certainly looking pretty rusted…
 

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If tracking is out I would have been looking for uneven tyre wear but don't think you have mentioned that. As for droplinks and bushes etc, any decent MOT station would have picked up on that and as a minimum recorded advisories. Could be you have the stiff steering problem .
 
I didn’t really look at the wear on the tyres but it’s done very few miles over the last few years and the rears were changed in 2022.
There was a previous mot advisory for worn inner edges of rears in 2019 4,000 miles ago, but now changed anyway.
Also there has been mentions in 2021 of both sides of front suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement.
I don’t think this was fixed but last two MOTs don’t mention it (different garage).
 
RMB said:
I didn’t really look at the wear on the tyres but it’s done very few miles over the last few years and the rears were changed in 2022.
There was a previous mot advisory for worn inner edges of rears in 2019 4,000 miles ago, but now changed anyway.
Also there has been mentions in 2021 of both sides of front suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement.
I don’t think this was fixed but last two MOTs don’t mention it (different garage).
By previous experience, if an MOT flags up the lollipop bushes being worn, then you have around 1-2k before they start knocking. You would hear this on rough surfaces though.
 
Just looking back through the history they’ve been mentioned several times!
Which ones are these lollipop bushes? It’s all Greek to me I need a labelled diagram!
 
The big round donut looking one in your photo, with the rear locating pin of the front lower suspension arm wedged in it.
 
RMB said:
Just looking back through the history they’ve been mentioned several times!
Which ones are these lollipop bushes? It’s all Greek to me I need a labelled diagram!

Known as front control arm bush.
Do you want me to post links so you can see each part?
Have you had a pry bar on the joints and bushes?
 
[ref]j3nks79[/ref],
Amazing thanks.
No pry bar tried, I’ve taken off the wheel and looked, that’s about as far as my skill has taken me so far.
I have a very nice Halfords advanced 250 piece tool kit.
All the gear….
 
RMB said:
[ref]j3nks79[/ref],
Amazing thanks.
No pry bar tried, I’ve taken off the wheel and looked, that’s about as far as my skill has taken me so far.
I have a very nice Halfords advanced 250 piece tool kit.
All the gear….

That’s all fairly cheap stuff to replace. Done all mine last year. Will transform your car.
You will obviously need alignment after.

But you also need to check the rear trailing arm bushes on the back as they are notorious for making the back end feel unstable.
 
I like to keep an entire spare set of wheels with tyres - either for winter, or unexpected issues. Maybe you could look for a used set of wheels with non-run flat tyres. Should only cost a couple of hundred quid, then you can compare the handling, and sell the wheels on for the same price you paid if you don't want to keep them.
 
Ergellegre said:
I like to keep an entire spare set of wheels with tyres - either for winter, or unexpected issues. Maybe you could look for a used set of wheels with non-run flat tyres. Should only cost a couple of hundred quid, then you can compare the handling, and sell the wheels on for the same price you paid if you don't want to keep them.

Yeah I already have a spare set for my 240 and garage space is now extremely limited. Now I’ve bought new tyres I’ll stick with the 201s.
But yes it would be useful to try other wheels and tyres. @Meds is going to swap his 261s with mine soon anyway!😀
The new tyres seem to have improved things somewhat though.
 
On Saturday and today I finally got my Zed serviced, full inspection 2. It was serviced only about 4k ago but that was 2020.
Oil, plugs, all filters, everything checked over. Pollen filter was completely missing!
New brake fluid, it was very dark. Probably also been too long since last changed.
Handbrake adjusted, 8 clicks to 5.
Aircon re gassed, it was showing 8g out of 740g. No wonder it wasn’t cool! All topped up and tested, now ice cold.
Also and importantly my mechanic replaced the lollipops, there was a fair bit of play, and now it’s much better.
Also he freed the track rods, by wire brush and then induction. So the tracking can be adjusted easily now. Just need to book it in.
He noted it’s looks like it has new springs but the shocks are original and I can see the label showing 2006. Everything else suspension wise looks ok.
Pics to follow…
 
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