Had the car 3 days...window regulator broken

[rish13]

...that's right, picked up the car last Thurs and already my cable has snapped on the passenger side window

I know there are a couple of threads on this already and from reading them I think I will do the job myself. My question is whether it's best I just replace the whole regulator or just get the cable repair kit from ebay? (Item number 221057306834)

Just spoke to BMW and got a quote for the whole passenger regulator at £145 (trade). But rather only spend £50 if I can get away with just replacing the cable!

Does anyone have any idea on whether one approach is more difficult that the other etc?

Also, I'm worried about the side airbag exploding in my face so I understand that I need to disconnect the battery from within the boot - however, will this affect my radio, immobiliser/alarm etc?

Any help would be much appreciated

 

[RJS-Z4]

I've read a good few things on here about just being able to replace the cable and if you're fairly handy I'd give it a go.

I'm sure one of the more frequent posters mentioned a few times about changing the cable. I think Ranski maybe?

As for battery and whatnot, disconnect for 20 minutes before you do anything, and make sure everything is re-connected before you re-connect the battery. Then you should have no warning issues.

 

[synthedup]

...that's right, picked up the car last Thurs and already my cable has snapped on the passenger side window

I know there are a couple of threads on this already and from reading them I think I will do the job myself. My question is whether it's best I just replace the whole regulator or just get the cable repair kit from ebay? (Item number 221057306834)

Just spoke to BMW and got a quote for the whole passenger regulator at £145 (trade). But rather only spend £50 if I can get away with just replacing the cable!

Does anyone have any idea on whether one approach is more difficult that the other etc?

Also, I'm worried about the side airbag exploding in my face so I understand that I need to disconnect the battery from within the boot - however, will this affect my radio, immobiliser/alarm etc?

Any help would be much appreciated

Hi, I had to change mine last year after the cable braking, I got the full unit from BMW for about £130 but after doing the job it would have been very simple to just replace the cable for £50 from ebay.

regarding the Airbag I just disconnected the positive from the battery and took the air bag off straight away with no problem, didn't effect the radio or immobiliser, Hardest bit was getting the glass back in the correct position so I didn't get any nose from the wind but this was done on the second attempt.

 

[richardjgreen]

had mine done at dealers £735 last month

 

[edd_jedi]

Make sure you buy a new door membrane and new butyl tape to reattach it, if it's not fitted properly your car will leak.

 

[rish13]

Ok great. I watched the video on youtube of the cable replacement and it doesn't look too bad at all - Will give it a go on Sunday I think, hopefully it's not raining!

Thanks for the tips guys, will let you know how I get on!

Richard - I read your last post about what the dealers charged you...I feel for you my friend

 

[wilbo]

Would be nice to hear from those who have replaced the cable. Many people say it looks / seems easy but I am sure I remember reading a post saying it was tricky, so most people replace the whole unit.

 

[kitchfilms]

Just done mine today.

The repair kits don't work. I think there's a reason that BMW don't market the cable as a repair option. I started mine on Saturday and watched that video on how to lace the cable up. It just didn't seem very tight and the wire kept coming off the pulleys

Nevertheless I got the regulator in its position and it worked.....kind of. On the second test it failed and had to come out again. Part of the problem was that the kit I'd bought seemed to have an incompatible part. The plastic bit that attached to the motor assembly was different and I had to reincarnate the old one to make it work. Suffice to say that it didn't work.

What isn't very well documented is that you have to drill out the 5 rivets that hold the motor gear assembly in and then bolt them back on. I had to shorten all the bolts too. What a pain in the arse!

Anyway after the car being undriveable all weekend I decided to get the regulator from euro parts. £145.00. It went in first time and I'd finished the job in under an hour.

Save yourself the arse ache and get the new regulator.

 

[kitchfilms]

....airbag wise, the golden rule is NOT to have the battery connected when you unplug the airbag. If you do the car will know the airbag isn't there and you'll get a nice orange warning light that I think will be a trip to the dealer to get switched off.

Part of the regulator installation process will need you to power up the car to make the window work. It's a bit of a nuisance as you have to plug in the door card for the the window switch and remember to put the airbag back on before restoring battery power. I was screwing in one of the airbag bolts to stake the strain off the cable too.

Your radio should just work again. My battery was disconnected for a good 12 hours overnight and I had no issues with the radio or alarm etc

Only thing that does happen is you lose one-touch window up due to battery being disconnected. There is a way to restore this function but can't remember. Will tackle tomorrow

 

[rish13]

Just done mine today.

The repair kits don't work. I think there's a reason that BMW don't market the cable as a repair option. I started mine on Saturday and watched that video on how to lace the cable up. It just didn't seem very tight and the wire kept coming off the pulleys

Nevertheless I got the regulator in its position and it worked.....kind of. On the second test it failed and had to come out again. Part of the problem was that the kit I'd bought seemed to have an incompatible part. The plastic bit that attached to the motor assembly was different and I had to reincarnate the old one to make it work. Suffice to say that it didn't work.

What isn't very well documented is that you have to drill out the 5 rivets that hold the motor gear assembly in and then bolt them back on. I had to shorten all the bolts too. What a pain in the arse!

Anyway after the car being undriveable all weekend I decided to get the regulator from euro parts. £145.00. It went in first time and I'd finished the job in under an hour.

Save yourself the arse ache and get the new regulator.

Oh pants...that's not good news! The video does make it look quite straight forward so I already ordered the part yesterday. I did think it may just be a quicker job to just get a new regulator and I guess that is the case.

I don't think I want to faff around with drilling rivets and shortening bolts. Thanks for the heads up.

I guess the trickiest bit will be (as most say) realigning the window so that it closes properly against the roof rubber. But that's something to do with two screws at the bottom or the regulator or something? :?

 

[kitchfilms]

Yeah mine needed no adjustment strangely and I was dreading that part. The adjustment is on the side of the regulator which bolts on to the window. I can't tell you the triumphant relief I felt when the door skin popped back on and I fired him up and it worked.

This link is helpful so you don't mess up the door skin
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Djgcv-VpCW8

And although this one shows an e89 it gives an idea if what's inside the door and how to attach the window
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJ3FkjeL9TE

If you've ordered the repair kit then it's up to you whether you try it or get your money back while it's still unused and sealed up. You'll see what I mean on the motor housing. There is no way to unscrew it and it does have to be drilled.
This chap has it photo'd http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=50177&view=previous

Good luck. Hope you get it fixed

 

[kitchfilms]

Another thought on the repaired regulator. It has these small parts ( bit like the cable ends on bicycle gears) on the wire that fix into the clamps. These are sealed in with black sealant. You have to dig this out and then to complete the repair they need sticking back down. Maybe hot glue or gutter sealant or even a blob of the stuff which sticks the foam lining on the door.

 

[rish13]

Just finished the job and now having a pint : )

It took me just under 3 hours and the how to guide I used on here was spot on.

A couple of additional pointers from my experience....

1) when taking the window off the regulator (ball joint at front and torx at rear) try your hardest not to take the window out of the rubber seals. I spent about 45mins trying to realign and put it back into the rubber windrow runners. The buggers just kept folding in and it was a pain!

2) when you do put it all back together, your auto window function will have a mind of its own. Everytime I put my drivers side up, it would go nack down again. Trick is to put the windows down completely then hold the button up until they are all the way back up again then don't let go. Hold the button in the up position for about 10 seconds.

Once done wipe the window of your your grubby finger marks and Robert's your father's brother!

Thanks to all for the help and advice.

 

[Danderton]

Which guide did you end up using? Or do you mean the video above for the e89? Looking for a good guide myself

Cheers, dan


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[rish13]

Which guide did you end up using? Or do you mean the video above for the e89? Looking for a good guide myself

Cheers, dan


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Re: window regulator fitting
Postby lunny - Fri Nov 29, 2013 8:36 pm

Having just done this job and struggled to find a how to, i thought id post my experience here as seems a logical place. No pics im afraid but ill try and list out what to do. Initially id say its an everage job but some basic engineering know how, tools and patience is all you need. No special tools are required

Tools req
Set of torx keys
10mm sockets inc a long thin one to get through the door skin
Flat blade drivers
Sharp knife
Torch is useful
Wirecutters
3 x cups of coffee/tea (plan on 2-3 hrs)
Replacement regulator. Mine was £156 from bmw
Door card Clips are 60p each if you break them

1. Prise out airbag plastic moulding from door card
2. Prise out circular screw cap behing door release
3. Prise cover off inner door handle
4. Prise while lifting mirror speaker cowl. Disconnect speaker connector and aside.
5. Remove 4 torx screws from handle, door opener and airbag motif hole.
6. Using flat blade driver ease door card away from door starting at the bottom
7. Door card is now held on by 5 clips at the top. Pull door card away from door, NOT upwards. Clips are tight so take care but it will come away.
8. Disconnect door release cable
9. Disconnect electric window and mirror connectors from door switch. Aside door card.
10. IMPORTANT. Now disconnect earth lead on battery. If you dont do this airbag warning light will come on.
11. Remove 3 screws holding airbag in. Ease of connecter and aside. Remove mirror wire clip from door.
12. The moisture cover is held on by good sealant. I went round mine with a knife to cut the sealant. Aside cover.
13. Remove sealing grommet from bottom of door to get access to lower regulator nut. Remove 5 nuts holding regulator in.
14. Unclip regulator cable from clip inside door in middle.
15. Remove regulator from window. Front is a ball joint. Pull retaining clip off and ease cup moulding off ball with driver. Rear is a torx bolt through the regulator bracket and plastic window shroud. To get easy access, window must be half way down so torx bolt lines up with access hole in door. If like me the window is stuck up you can cut the wires to allow it to drop down.
16. Remove window motor (3 torx screws) and swap onto new regulator.
17. Refit regulator and connect to window. I had to use the motor to turn the regulator to get the right height so the torx bolt lined up with the access hole for refitting.
18. Once the regulator is refitted you need to check the adjustment to the roof. To do this your going to have to reconnect switches and the airbag, then reconnect the battery. The golden rule is only connect the battery with the airbag connected and only disconnect the airbag with the earth lead removed from the battery. Test the window and adjust the rear window connection as necessary to get a good window/ roof fit. Once happy remove battery earth, airbag and switches again.
19. Refit moisture cover. Sealant should restick but use duck tape as necessary
20. Feed wiring through holes. Reconnect and refit airbag. Reconnect all connecters on door card inc door release.
21. Feed door button through hole and push door card back onto the 5 clips at the top.
22. Ease door card downwards engaging all plastic clips again. Take care not to break them.
23. Refit 4 torx screws, handle cover, airbag motif, mirror speaker cowl and door release screw cover
24. Tidy up, stand back and admire your work.

Hope this helps someone someday. Obviously this is a guide and there is no replacement for patience and common sense.

I used this one that was posted by lunny a few months back. Helped me nicely

 

[wilbo]

I used this guide also, did it at the weekend and took about 3-3.5 hours but wasn't rushing. Few things to add from my experience.

1) Get yourself some plastic trim tools to avoid scratching the door card, do not use screwdrivers etc.
2) Do not use a knife to cut the moisture cover sealant, better to use a scraper or something else that is a bit blunter. Patience here will ensure the sealant remains really tacky and reseals well.
3) As suggested above, there is no reason to remove the window. Leave it in the guides, and I pushed it up enough until I could put something in the gap created at the front by the tweeter panel for it to rest on.
4) THIS ONE MAY BE THE MOST HELPFUL. Take your time and use sticky tape to mark the window position before you remove it from the regulator. Also helps to mark the lateral position of the regulator at the bottom of the door, can do this with a screwdriver or anything with a point. Both of these will help when putting lining the window up again. I didn't need to adjust mine at all once it was back on due to these steps.
5) Buy some trip clips in advane, it is likely they will break!

 

[Danderton]

Thanks chaps. I'm still dreading doing it on my own


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