Guide for replacing old hydraulic lines

FWIW, I used new o-rings and at least one new clip for the reason that Robbi said. Dropped one and couldn't locate it and had the new ones from the repleacement harness kit. Wear your readers and use a pick to ensure that the old o-rings aren't in. New ones will satifyingly snap in when you get it right, so be sure to have a clip ready because its going to want to pop back out.
 
Thanks Christopher, good to know. I spoke with the Cabrio team as well and they suggested I pull out the o-ring and try again (maybe it slipped off when I was inserting the line into the port on the cylinder). I have 50 new o-rings just in case I needed more so that's no big deal. He also said to measure the various shoulders and diameters on the line connector to see if it might be a manufacturing issue. I'll report back when I figure it out.
 
Christopher, when you say "snap-in" do you put the o-ring on the connector first, then put it into the port on the cylinder or do you put the o-ring into the port first, then put the connector into the port afterwards?
 
I put the o-ring on the end of the hydraulic tubing, then pressed into the hydraulic ram. Make sure theres a little fluid on the o-ring.

Look at time 8:55 in this youtube... not the same ram, but same method of installing.



TopHydraulics has the best pump video... I refurbed my pump through them... good company.
 
Good to know, thanks! I may not get to it until this weekend but I'm going to pull the lines, measure everything (in case my new lines are out of spec), and then re-try seating the line w/o-ring properly. Maybe it came out a little and o-ring got stuck and then pressed down without actually being on anymore 🤷‍♂️
 
accts4mjs said:
Hello, first, thank you for all of the amazing information! I tried to order a wiring harness from a BMW parts site and got the runaround for two weeks while they kept changing the price and I finally decided to just build my own harness. I bought hoses from https://www.cabriolet-roof-hoses.co...89-z4-roadster-hydraulic-cabriolet-roof-hoses and SXL flex rated automative wiring from Remington Industries: https://www.remingtonindustries.com...e-stranded-10-colors-7-spool-sizes-available/.

I was able to build the the new harness by drawing the various locations in the old harness where the tape goes, the clips, and the sleeves along with lengths of wire, color of wire, etc.

All went well until I installed the hydraulic line, with a brand new o-ring, back into the cylinder only to have it leak out when I put the retaining clip back on and moved the roof top arm.

I tried to buy new retaining clips but couldn't find any anywhere.

Questions:
1. Does anyone have a part number for the clips (photos below)? Or even better, a source to buy them?
2. Did I put the new o-ring on the hydraulic swange connector properly? I also wiped it with a touch of hydraulic fluid.
3. Anything else I'm not considering? Is there a way to re-bend the original clip to get it to work again?

View attachment 281902
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The diameter of the replacement pipe where the clip engages is less than stock so the clip will not lock around it. I opened up the spread in the clip so that it will stay tight in the channel.
 
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Hi guys

I’m in the unfortunate position of having to try and fix the non-functional convertible hard top of my wife's 2012 bmw Z4.

This thread seems to have more related useful information and pics than others I have come across.

The top got stuck part of the way through its closing cycle last Fall. I played with the harness in the trunk area and got it almost all the way in the open and stored position and we managed to limp it home.

Since then I’ve been reading on and off. I managed to get the top into the service position by following instructions in one of robbie’s threads.

I got a diagnostic tool and managed to trace the issue to an intermittent micro switch signal running through the passenger side of the roof top mechanism harness.

My goal was to access and replace the sections of wire that are affecting the signal, get it working and get rid if the car.

I am stuck in a situation where I need to get access to the harness above its upper bend where it tucks between the rear window roof shell and the roof mechanisms.

I found bits and pieces of information indicating that the roof shell should be fairly easy to remove via a few bolts holding the shell to the mechanism.

I managed to pry the roof liner loose along the front and side to access and loosen two bolts holding the front if the roof shell to the mechanism and removed the shims in between to save in order.

1772743117169.jpeg
1772743168620.jpeg


The last bolt I thought needed removal would not budge. I tried a few times and could feel I wasn’t getting anywhere and the torx tool appeared to not be gripping well. I went out and bought a new T40 bit to try. Unfortunately, it didn’t work. The bit ended up turning in the bolt head and ripping it out.

1772743413087.jpeg

I’m not sure what the hell to do now. I am doubting that this was even the proper way to release the shell, but I can’t think of how else it would come off or find any other information to the contrary.

I really think that if I don’t gain access to replace the wiring above the upper bend in the harness I won’t be able to solve the issue.

Any guidance or help anyone can provide would really be appreciated. 🙏🙏🙏
 
chromenuts said:
Hi guys

I’m in the unfortunate position of having to try and fix the non-functional convertible hard top of my wife's 2012 bmw Z4.

This thread seems to have more related useful information and pics than others I have come across.

The top got stuck part of the way through its closing cycle last Fall. I played with the harness in the trunk area and got it almost all the way in the open and stored position and we managed to limp it home.

Since then I’ve been reading on and off. I managed to get the top into the service position by following instructions in one of robbie’s threads.

I got a diagnostic tool and managed to trace the issue to an intermittent micro switch signal running through the passenger side of the roof top mechanism harness.

My goal was to access and replace the sections of wire that are affecting the signal, get it working and get rid if the car.

I am stuck in a situation where I need to get access to the harness above its upper bend where it tucks between the rear window roof shell and the roof mechanisms.

I found bits and pieces of information indicating that the roof shell should be fairly easy to remove via a few bolts holding the shell to the mechanism.

I managed to pry the roof liner loose along the front and side to access and loosen two bolts holding the front if the roof shell to the mechanism and removed the shims in between to save in order.

View attachment 291273
View attachment 291274


The last bolt I thought needed removal would not budge. I tried a few times and could feel I wasn’t getting anywhere and the torx tool appeared to not be gripping well. I went out and bought a new T40 bit to try. Unfortunately, it didn’t work. The bit ended up turning in the bolt head and ripping it out.

View attachment 291275

I’m not sure what the hell to do now. I am doubting that this was even the proper way to release the shell, but I can’t think of how else it would come off or find any other information to the contrary.

I really think that if I don’t gain access to replace the wiring above the upper bend in the harness I won’t be able to solve the issue.

Any guidance or help anyone can provide would really be appreciated. 🙏🙏🙏
Click to expand...
Suggest you repost this as a fresh new post with a clear description and hopefully Robbie will come along and rescue you..
 
To remove [deleted, this is a How To] may help.
 
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Thanks robbie. It seems this is the scenario that has played out. 😔

I had tried applying heat with an air gun, but it was too little too late.

I got the first two vertically mounted bolts toward the front of the rear shell out with no heat and no problems.

Unfortunately, Murphy’s Law has caught up to me.

This is probably the number one situation that I dread happening when working on cars.

I posted my question in another thread as suggested. The general feedback was to not bother removing the shell and just create a new run of wires for the micro switch and attach it to the path of the original harness as best as I can. Getting to the wires that originate from the micro switch is going to be a real pain either way.

It’s totally against my OCD nature, but to be honest I’m just too old for this nonsense at this point.

I just want to get the thing working so we can get rid of it.
 
chromenuts said:
Any guidance or help anyone can provide would really be appreciated.
Click to expand...
You could try cutting a slot across the head of the bolt with a dremel and then use a slotted / flathead screwdriver to remove it, as already mentioned try heating the bolt before trying to remove it.
 
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chromenuts said:
I’m not sure what the hell to do now. I am doubting that this was even the proper way to release the shell, but I can’t think of how else it would come off or find any other information to the contrary.

I really think that if I don’t gain access to replace the wiring above the upper bend in the harness I won’t be able to solve the issue.

Any guidance or help anyone can provide would really be appreciated. 🙏🙏🙏
Click to expand...

First thing, I feel your pain. Rough challenge ahead.

Second, heat is your friend. Really get that bolt hot. I used a heat gun on each for a really long time. It probably took me 20 minutes per bolt. I've heard others use a soldering iron. An induction heater may work as well. That glue ony releases its bonds with heat - I learned that from RobbiZ4 and witnessed it when removing my rear shell. I'm not sure how you are going to snag it, either making it a notch or with an extraction socket. Good luck.

And as you remove the rear shell, keep track of the spacers and keep them separate and labeled as to where they go for reinstallation They are not all the same thickness.

Whatever you do, don't remove the front shell when you have the rear in a semi-attached state... Pretty sure it makes reinstalling a worse option than a strategic insurance fire.
 
Thanks for the responses and clarification on the process everyone.

Thankfully the car is not needed and it is garaged.

I’m gonna step away from it and ruminate about how I want to proceed…see if I can build up the courage to take the bolt on or not.

My wife impulse bought this car and it seems like we’ll either be stuck with it for a little while longer or have to take a loss on it. I don’t tell her what to do with her money, but often have to live with the consequences of her choices. 😒
 
chromenuts said:
My wife impulse bought this car and it seems like we’ll either be stuck with it for a little while longer or have to take a loss on it. I don’t tell her what to do with her money, but often have to live with the consequences of her choices. 😒
Click to expand...

It's not a bad choice -- you're solid DIY'r if you are willing to go this far. I've put some good time into mine and its a fun car, not a daily, so it has time to sit while i figure things out as well.

"her money" :rofl:... well we only have "our money" ... that I make... :unsure:
 
By the way, I think it's crappy to discuss such topics in a How To !!!

I will delete my former comments soon one by one.
 
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I apologize…I never meant to derail this thread.

It was the only source I found with photographic documentation that I came across that actually showed the roof shell being removed. I needed some more detail about that since I was struggling.

I figured it was part of the whole hydraulic line overhaul process.
 
You suggest the following tools if the top is in a non-operational status:

Tools you will probably need if your car has a NON-operating or partially-operating roof:
1x 83300496598 ~ 20 USD
1x 83300496597 ~ 30 USD

What are these tools used for? I'm getting ready to tackle this job and trying to get my order list ready. Thanks!
 
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