Gap Tech install - Anyone got pictures

Soldering is definitely the best way to ensure it works. However if you might ever want to remove it - move to a new car, or to sell separately if you sell your car for example - then bullet connectors are the way to go. You can quickly remove the Gaptech but the integrity of the system is still maintained.
 
I've taken some pictures of the install process. The black wire snapped, and is now shorter but but this should make a difference.









 
Sorry but I will be surprised if them connections last, black cable broken already, this should be ringing alarm bells... They are an awful way to connect cables, soldering is the way too go!

One bump over a pot hole and your be pulling that ash tray unit out again and again... Good luck & I hope your install lasts ;)

Do like the gap tech module, a worthy upgrade :)
 
Terryvision said:
Sorry but I will be surprised if them connections last (black cable broken already, should be ringing alarm bells)... They are an awful way to connect cables. Soldering is the way too go!

One bump over a pot hole and your be pulling that ash tray unit out again and again... Good luck & I hope your install lasts ;)

Do like the gap tech module, a worthy upgrade :) :)
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm going to solder the buggers, gonna nip to maplins after work and buy one. On paper I love the gaptech, unfortunately, its not working yet lol so I don't really know.

One question however, when soldering how do I solder the wires from the loom?
 
*jimmyj* said:
One question however, when soldering how do I solder the wires from the loom?
Click to expand...

Use a flat blade to expose a bit of wire, doesnt need to be all the way around... wrap the gaptec wired around the loom, over the exposed wire... Drop some solder on. Then electrical tape to cover it.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
 
aquazi said:
*jimmyj* said:
One question however, when soldering how do I solder the wires from the loom?
Click to expand...

Use a flat blade to expose a bit of wire, doesnt need to be all the way around... wrap the gaptec wired around the loom, over the exposed wire... Drop some solder on. Then electrical tape to cover it.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
+ 1 couldn't of worded it any better myself, but I would totally expose the loom wire (5mm ish) all the way around, then wrap the gap tech wire around the exposed wire.... then heat, solder & tape ;)

P.S if you use a 240v/Mains soldering iron... Disconnect ya zed's battery!!

If you wanna pop to Brighton ill do the soldering for ya ;)
 
exactly like that

scotchblocks are honestly awful because you just cant trust them to cut the cables, especially as the gaptech cables are so thin :thumbsup:
 
Unplug my battery as well, right. Wont i need any alarm codes or radio codes when plugging the battery in if its been disconnected for 'x' amount of time?
 
nope just reset the clock, just try and complete the install inside 30 mins there is a tiny weeny chance your car might revert back to transport mode but cross that bridge if it happens (which it won't!!)
 
Well, i took my time, exposed part of each wire like you guys said. I cut more of the plastic off on the gaptech, and wrapped it round the exposed wire then soldered it. And it works!!!!
 
Sorry, missed these posts earlier... You will need to reset the windows too, link below to different procedures (different ones work on different cars) :

http://www.shipkiller.com/Window_Initialization_Procedures.html

As for disconnecting the battery, the deal is disconnect, then leave for at least 30mins before messing with any airbags (not what you were doing in this case, but useful for future reference :wink: ). I think it takes a lot longer than 30 mins to go into transport mode as when I had my steering wheel trims sprayed the battery was disconnected for two days.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom