Gap Tech install - Anyone got pictures

J

*jimmyj*

Member
 West Yorkshire
Received my gap tech today, super fast delivery. I've received the install notes but just want to make sure i'm installing it right, so has anyone got any pictures of the install. Don't want to mess things up.
 
Provided you're not colour blind, take it slow & make sure all connections are properly made & u will be just fine.

One other piece of advice is DON'T use the scotch blocks next to each other, stagger them otherwise u might have a little difficulty getting them to lay evenly
 
I soldered inline instead.

That said - the instructions are completely unambiguous. There's no room for confusion as to which wire goes where.
 
I think I get what you mean.....

So im assuming that the wire which is connected to the module goes in the inside connection of the connector, and the wire from the loom goes on the outside?
 
Are you asking how to use the scotchloks? I think you've got the right idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xl1j4PxKdjE

It's a runtap you're performing.
 
my advice is dont use scotchblocks they will inevitably come loose and ruin your day, solder the connections and then cover in leccy tape or heat wrap
 
Scotchlocks all taped up will be just fine. Personally I double the wires over from the gaptech unit so they were a bit chunkier and the scotchlock had more to sink into.
 
you are just adding a weak component into the chain though, heat sealed solder even if you get a dry joint will still work, a scotchblock that pings open means you have to fart around all over again

spend the extra time during the initial install is always a much wiser decision down the line :thumbsup:
 
I personally just stripped a bit of wire wrap the gaptec wire around the exposed bit, and then a drop of solder (if you dont want to disconnect your battery make sure its gas powered not mains)

I used scotchlocks on my roadangel hardwiring and after a while they stopped working... Took 6 months and a replacement piggyback blade fuse and spare cigarette socket to work out was the scotchlocks :headbang:


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I used bullet connectors, after I had to take my Gaptech out when my roof failed to test that wasn't the problem. Didn't want to put another nick in the wires. Of course bullets meant I had to actually cut the wires in the car's loom, which was a little scary :D

Been working fine for almost a year now :thumbsup:
 
Most people who have had bother with scotchloks have not closed them properly. Use pliers and give them a proper hard squeeze until they lock shut with a click. They are fine in locations that are not too exposed. If there is the potential for moisture ingress I would solder and shrink wrap.
 
aquazi said:
I personally just stripped a bit of wire wrap the gaptec wire around the exposed bit, and then a drop of solder (if you dont want to disconnect your battery make sure its gas powered not mains)

I used scotchlocks on my roadangel hardwiring and after a while they stopped working... Took 6 months and a replacement piggyback blade fuse and spare cigarette socket to work out was the scotchlocks :headbang:


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Click to expand...

I used a mains soldering iron but unplugged it to make the joint. Stays hot long enough.
 
Well tried to fit it today and it doesn't work. Triple checked each connection but no joy :(

Any advise
 
Use a multimeter to ensure a good connection is in place. When I fitted one I had all sorts of problems with scotchlocks. They looked good but my DVM proved the connection wasn't made.

As Perry and bing have said, bullet connectors or soldering is the way forward.

I chickened out, got mine checked by gaptech (great support) then sold it to Marius :oops:
 
And check (four times over) you have all the right wires!

There's two of similar colour I believe!
 
willgill said:
if you used scotchblocks and its not working try soldering the wires :)
Click to expand...

Soldered mine as I don't trust scotchblocks.

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