Faulty GM5 module - E85 2004

Jbland

Member
I'm new to the forums and this is my first post, so be nice.

I started experiencing issues with my central locking using the key fob or console button inside the car. The symptoms were slow locking/unlocking or not at all. The indicator lights would still flash and the interior lights would still come on. It got so bad the only way I could unlock the drivers door was by using the key and the passenger door had to stay locked.

I read various posts on the forums that pointed the issue to a faulty GM5 module and more specifically the relays inside. I followed some of the posts on here and decided to take the module out and send it away for repair. I got in contact with a really helpful guy called Paul Horner who replaced the relays for £35 (inc return delivery) and I can report I've re-fitted the module and all is working again. Paul is based in the UK and can be contacted on [email protected].

It was quite difficult to take the module out as I couldn't open my passenger door so I had to spend time upside down on the passenger seat, with my head under the glove box to remove the module. I would recommend taking the module out on the bracket as the nuts are easier to get to. You need to unscrew 2 screws holding the plastic cover underneath the glove box and then reach up inside and unplug 3 cables. All of them have plastic levers that have to be released before they can be unplugged. The 2 smaller connections need the bracket releasing in an upwards direction and the bigger connection requires the top of the plastic pushed to one side to release it. The bracket nuts can then be unscrewed and the bracket comes out.

Be aware once the module is out of the car, the interior lights, electric windows & roof, windscreen wipers and central locking do not work.

Hope this is helpful to someone.
 
Welcome to the forum! It was myself that changed the relays for Jon as I run an electronics repair shop called Advance Product Services Ltd...you need a very good quality iron to do the job well as it is a multi-layer pcb and easy to rip the pcb tracking and through plating off if you are not experienced. Also, the pcb is silicone coated so you have to remove that sympathetically before you start.

Watch out for fake Tyco relays that are all over Ebay...they are not rated as high as the originals.

Anyway, few pics from the process below for those that are interested. We use an £800 induction iron which is designed for tricky stuff like this but any good quality iron with decent power rating would do as long as you are patient...

000D4ACB-6F16-4376-AA6A-99EA1AF10A96.jpeg
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Nice clean holes, and no through plating torn out. You can see why a high power iron is needed, as the flooded copper on the pcb sucks the heat out.




DDD6EFD8-3710-4517-A5AA-7FF3215718C9.jpeg
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Finished job.
 
Bit of a swap how-to with pics if anybody needs it :thumbsup:

I've documented the pre-facelift process, the face-lift module is the same but located slightly differently and is easier to get at.
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=102586
 
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