Engine won't start after replacing water pump

[cmdo1964]

My 2004 BMW Z4 has 50K miles and I decided to replace water pump, thermostat housing and hoses. The mechanic replaced them. then we tried to start the car. The car starts and after 5-6 sec, there is a loud pop, and it shut down. The mechanic claimed the water pump is defective and I am not sure I believe him. I bought the Genuine BMW water pump.

I would like to hear your thoughts on this, do I believe the mechanic and try to get another new water pump? Do you have any idea why it happened?

Thanks,
CD

 

[bigwinn]

Highly unlikely it’s anything to do with the water pump

 

[enuff_zed]

As always, read the codes first! That should hopefully take you in the right direction.
Unlikely to be the pump itself.
More likely something that was disturbed in the process, or water spilt onto something.
Ask the mechanic what he removed for access. Then check all those things are back on correctly.
You usually have to jack the engine up a bit to clear the studs, so if he did that then there's more possibilities for dislodging things.

 

[cmdo1964]

Thank you all for your thoughts and suggestion. After my mechanic left, I opened the bleed crew, fill up more coolant more, and the engine can stay for a few more seconds but it still loose the idle and sputter, and stop.

Unfortunately, the mechanic claimed that he did what he was supposed to do, installing the water pump, and wanted to pay. I agreed to pay him half and he will come back to after I get another water pump (However, I feel that he won't come back). I have few questions to follow up and will talk to him
1. If the water pump is defective and does not work, I should be able to start the engine and not losing the idle, the engine will get overheat soon, is it correct?
2. One thing I noticed that he had loosen the engine mounting to remove the water pump, but he did not put them all back together yet, because he wanted to see the system working first before he finishes up. Is it also the factor to contribute to the problem?

Thanks,
CD

 

[Rockhopper]

Are you in the UK? If so where? Sounds like your “mechanic” hasn’t got a clue and has potentially ripped you off

 

[cmdo1964]

I am in the US. You are right, the mechanic is not BMW specialist, he needs to google how to pull the old water pump out by loosening up the engine mount, but it was too late for me to stop him. He already started

 

[enuff_zed]

I would keep him well away from it!
Definitely possible then that he has disturbed something else then.
Check all the air pipes. Could be on is not on properly.

 

[Dr. Zed]

If the water pump was defective then the car should start as normal and overheat after a while like you said.

I wouldn't definitely not have paid him that's for sure.

Anyways, does the car just shut off completely or does it start to idle rough and slowly lose revs before cutting out?

Trying to think what the pop is. Does it happen every time when you try to start the car, or did it only happen the first time?

As suggested, I'd get the code read and see what they say. I know newer BMW's cut out automatically if they get too hot but I have no idea if E85/E86 do. And it still doesn't explain the loud pop your described.

 

[ponchi101]

...
1. If the water pump is defective and does not work, I should be able to start the engine and not losing the idle, the engine will get overheat soon, is it correct?
2. One thing I noticed that he had loosen the engine mounting to remove the water pump, but he did not put them all back together yet, because he wanted to see the system working first before he finishes up. Is it also the factor to contribute to the problem?

Thanks,
CD

If the pump is not working, the engine will reach working temperature very quickly, and then overheat. It will take just a couple of minutes in idle, less than that if running/driving. Remember that the water flow start ONLY after proper temperature has been reached. So you could really hurt the engine and seals if you run it for anything longer than that.
As above: get somebody with a good scanner, and check out what it tells you. Most of them can be run with engine running and will give you a proper diagnosis. Or put the Z on a flat bed truck and take it to the dealership. Then get this mechanic and get your money back. You had bad luck with this person.

 

[enuff_zed]

...
1. If the water pump is defective and does not work, I should be able to start the engine and not losing the idle, the engine will get overheat soon, is it correct?
2. One thing I noticed that he had loosen the engine mounting to remove the water pump, but he did not put them all back together yet, because he wanted to see the system working first before he finishes up. Is it also the factor to contribute to the problem?

Thanks,
CD

If the pump is not working, the engine will reach working temperature very quickly, and then overheat. It will take just a couple of minutes in idle, less than that if running/driving. Remember that the water flow start ONLY after proper temperature has been reached. So you could really hurt the engine and seals if you run it for anything longer than that.
As above: get somebody with a good scanner, and check out what it tells you. Most of them can be run with engine running and will give you a proper diagnosis. Or put the Z on a flat bed truck and take it to the dealership. Then get this mechanic and get your money back. You had bad luck with this person.

To clarify, if it's a 2004 then it's the M54 engine right?
This is an old-fashioned, bolt it into the block and drive it with a belt, type.
Therefore it will circulate water as soon as the engine starts turning over. Until the thermostat opens though, nothing will go to the radiator.
So a quick check is to start it with the expansion tank cap off. You should see a thin jet of water going into the neck of the expansion tank from the right-hand side. If the pump is not working then this won't happen.
However, as the pulley is bolted directly to the shaft and the impellor is fitted onto that, it is a fairly basic set up and should all turn ok.
The mechanic should have given the shaft a quick spin with his fingers and seen the impellor move too.
However, from the sound of him, I doubt he bothered.
Did he actually bolt the pulley onto the pump or is that just spinning on its own. :roll:

I reckon the suggestion to take it elsewhere is the best one. Get whoever looks at it to video what they are doing.
If they find it's not been done correctly then that is your evidence to get your money back.

Hope you get it all sorted ok.

 

[ponchi101]

...
1. If the water pump is defective and does not work, I should be able to start the engine and not losing the idle, the engine will get overheat soon, is it correct?
2. One thing I noticed that he had loosen the engine mounting to remove the water pump, but he did not put them all back together yet, because he wanted to see the system working first before he finishes up. Is it also the factor to contribute to the problem?

Thanks,
CD

If the pump is not working, the engine will reach working temperature very quickly, and then overheat. It will take just a couple of minutes in idle, less than that if running/driving. Remember that the water flow start ONLY after proper temperature has been reached. So you could really hurt the engine and seals if you run it for anything longer than that.
As above: get somebody with a good scanner, and check out what it tells you. Most of them can be run with engine running and will give you a proper diagnosis. Or put the Z on a flat bed truck and take it to the dealership. Then get this mechanic and get your money back. You had bad luck with this person.

To clarify, if it's a 2004 then it's the M54 engine right?
This is an old-fashioned, bolt it into the block and drive it with a belt, type.
Therefore it will circulate water as soon as the engine starts turning over. Until the thermostat opens though, nothing will go to the radiator.
So a quick check is to start it with the expansion tank cap off. You should see a thin jet of water going into the neck of the expansion tank from the right-hand side. If the pump is not working then this won't happen.
However, as the pulley is bolted directly to the shaft and the impellor is fitted onto that, it is a fairly basic set up and should all turn ok.
The mechanic should have given the shaft a quick spin with his fingers and seen the impellor move too.
However, from the sound of him, I doubt he bothered.
Did he actually bolt the pulley onto the pump or is that just spinning on its own. :roll:

I reckon the suggestion to take it elsewhere is the best one. Get whoever looks at it to video what they are doing.
If they find it's not been done correctly then that is your evidence to get your money back.

Hope you get it all sorted ok.

Thanks for the better explanation

 

[BumpyZ4]

Make sure he didn't disconnect any connectors like the one on the VANOS solenoid or anything else in the general area of the water pump/thermostat area.

 

[cmdo1964]

Over the weekend, I inspected all the air hoses, and the air intake tube was disconnected from the engine. Reconnecting the intake tube and everything is working fine. Since I already paid the mechanic 2/3 of the labor fee, I called him to tell him what is the issue and paid him the rest.

Without all of your helps. I could pay more money to tow the car to the shop to trouble shoot the issue.

Thank you everyone.

CD

 

[bigwinn]

Nice one!

Glad to hear all is well again!

Sometimes it pays to do it yourself... even if you learn from your mistakes!!

Stuart

 

[BumpyZ4]

Over the weekend, I inspected all the air hoses, and the air intake tube was disconnected from the engine. Reconnecting the intake tube and everything is working fine. Since I already paid the mechanic 2/3 of the labor fee, I called him to tell him what is the issue and paid him the rest.

Without all of your helps. I could pay more money to tow the car to the shop to trouble shoot the issue.

Thank you everyone.

CD

Make sure you tighten up that engine mount that he loosened!!

 

[enuff_zed]

Over the weekend, I inspected all the air hoses, and the air intake tube was disconnected from the engine. Reconnecting the intake tube and everything is working fine. Since I already paid the mechanic 2/3 of the labor fee, I called him to tell him what is the issue and paid him the rest.

Without all of your helps. I could pay more money to tow the car to the shop to trouble shoot the issue.

Thank you everyone.

CD

Make sure you tighten up that engine mount that he loosened!!

Yup, then double check absolutely everything else.
Then fit a tracker on the guy and if he ever comes within 5 miles of your car taser him! :rofl:

 

[cmdo1964]

[/quote]Make sure you tighten up that engine mount that he loosened!!
[/quote]

Yes, we did

 

[colb]

Lesson learnt this time around, there are cowboy mechanics out there, pays to do your own jobs on the car if you can then you know its been done correctly. Always find help on how to do things on here and on the Web. With a decent socket set and a good code reader you should be equipped to do most jobs.