Engine & electrics cut out [no OBD fault codes] when warm never when cold

richyrich

New member
Cambridge
2004 Z4 E85 3.0i RWD Petrol Convertible 120,000 miles [18 years and 110,000 miles with me!]

My engine and electrics are simultaneously cutting out whilst driving.

I got the car to a garage and left it on their forecourt overnight and explained the symptoms to them in the morning. It took them over a week before they could get the car into their schedule to look at, and over that time, each evening they drove the car into the garage and each morning they drove the car out onto the forecourt - the car started and drove perfectly every time!

When they checked the OBD it didn't show any fault codes so they took it for a drive and, after a while, the engine and electrics simultaneously cut out again. They got it back, no fault codes, cleaned out the idle air control valve and checked the ECU’s wiring, which seemed intact.

At this point the mechanics thought the fault to be with my ECU.

As I was struggling to find someone to test my ECU I asked the garage to check, and if faulty, replace the following so we could discount them causes;
  • MAF Sensor
  • Inlet Camshaft Sensor
  • Crank Sensor
  • Fuel Pressure Regulator
  • Fuel Pump
After all they'd done so they took it for a run [and gave it a bit of a blast!] over a number of miles [I think they said around half an hour which would be about 5 miles in those hills of B-roads] and they didn't experience the fault.

I then took it out and drove perhaps 5 or 6 miles up hill and down dale with various levels of acceleration and braking that I doubt the mechanic would have done. I drove for various distances with stops of various lengths of time. The car started and drove perfectly after each stop and start and I didn't experience the cut out fault either. After a few short drives over the next few days I felt confident enough to [aka ran out of time and needed to risk!] driving 150 miles south....

I got 14 miles before I experienced the cut out fault again - luckily, 1 mile before getting on the M1.
  • Turning the key to the ACC position would turn the electrics on.
  • It would take a while until turning the key to the ON position would try and start the car.
  • After a while longer, turning the key to the ON position would start the engine yet it wouldn't hold its revs for more than a or 4 seconds.
  • A while longer and I might be able to get the car started to move it 10 yards or so.
  • After anything from 20 to 40 mins or waiting I'd be able to start the car and move it a few miles before it cut out again.
    • I was able to get it back [via b roads] to the garage in 4 stages of doing this.
    • Of course, as soon as mechanics got to the garage the next day, the car started up and ran perfectly!
My garage has arranged for an auto-electrician to look at the car yet I thought I'd also turn to your expertise to see if there's any guidance I can share with the auto-electrician to help their investigation.

I first got my car to the garage on Easter Saturday, now 85 days ago, so any help with this will be massively appreciated, with many many thanks in advance, Rich

ps - Luckily my friend has recently put me on the insurance for her Alpha...
pps - she has a Stelvio Quadrifoglio ;o)
 
I had similar with a previous m54 3.0

The issue was the DME (ecu) which was failing

Solution was to buy a new DME, install it and bypass the EWS security to allow the car to start

I did get codes relating to the DME when it happened so to 100% confirm that same issue you should try to get a reader in the car and read the codes when it occurs

👍🏻
 
Do check your battery connections. They may seem tight, but they may not be. Any slight looseness will cause the symptoms you describe.
 
Back
Top Bottom