E89 Comfort Access Retrofit
- Thread starter Christopher72
- Start date
Some pictures... This may eventually make it into a how-to.
Removing the H-brace gave significant access to everything, with the window in the closed position.
Disconnecting the door wire harness was a pinch-pullout to unlock—simple once understood but puzzled me for a few minutes.
But the most important was all of the pictures I took when disassembling it, especially since I reassembled it a week later.
My breaker-based CA wire harness had missing or broken clips, which had to be replaced. Using the harness I removed as a template, I placed the replacement clips and cleaned up any stray broken tape on the new(used) part.
They keep the harness in place and prevent it from interfering with the window and routing -- Part numbers 61136945260, 61139285770, 61139285770 are probably interchangeable as wire clips go, as well as the door yellow and blue door card clips.
The passenger side door is back together now, and all previous functions work fine (Window, Mirror, Lights, Sensors, Sonic Sensors, etc.). The CA can't be tested until the Go module is installed. I am working on the Driver side tomorrow, and I'll take more step-by-step pictures now that I know what is vital in the process. I doubt that too many will want to attempt this, but at least I can share it with those who search for it.
The most important step is truly getting your VIN modified for feature S322 and a CA-enabled key that goes with it. If you can't get that, then the rest of the mechanical stuff doesn't matter because nothing that is installed will work without a working CA key for your VIN.
Removing the H-brace gave significant access to everything, with the window in the closed position.
Disconnecting the door wire harness was a pinch-pullout to unlock—simple once understood but puzzled me for a few minutes.
But the most important was all of the pictures I took when disassembling it, especially since I reassembled it a week later.
My breaker-based CA wire harness had missing or broken clips, which had to be replaced. Using the harness I removed as a template, I placed the replacement clips and cleaned up any stray broken tape on the new(used) part.
They keep the harness in place and prevent it from interfering with the window and routing -- Part numbers 61136945260, 61139285770, 61139285770 are probably interchangeable as wire clips go, as well as the door yellow and blue door card clips.
The passenger side door is back together now, and all previous functions work fine (Window, Mirror, Lights, Sensors, Sonic Sensors, etc.). The CA can't be tested until the Go module is installed. I am working on the Driver side tomorrow, and I'll take more step-by-step pictures now that I know what is vital in the process. I doubt that too many will want to attempt this, but at least I can share it with those who search for it.
The most important step is truly getting your VIN modified for feature S322 and a CA-enabled key that goes with it. If you can't get that, then the rest of the mechanical stuff doesn't matter because nothing that is installed will work without a working CA key for your VIN.
Slow work! I realized that I had two passenger wire looms after disassembling the driver-side door! :headbang: Apparently, it matters if the donor car speaks in received pronunciation. I returned to Ebay to pick up a 'Merican Left Door wire harness for $35. It has a larger panel connection to support the multiple window control panel. (Driver vs Passenger)
In testing the door, I noticed that the handle didn't cause the window to lower when the door was opened and then rise after closing. Protool found a door short code that I expect was caused when yanking out the old or replacing the new wires, so I cleared that and restarted the car. The window now behaves when opening and closing.
Next is to pull a Dave and rip off the rear bumper, seat, center panel, and dash to install the 3 antennae, Passive Go Module, and connection to the main fuse panel with custom wiring. (nothing is prewired). I'm also about ready to remove shell 2 and begin rewiring and repiping the folding top, adding in rear PDC and a backup camera. It will look like I left it in a bad neighborhood for a while.
In testing the door, I noticed that the handle didn't cause the window to lower when the door was opened and then rise after closing. Protool found a door short code that I expect was caused when yanking out the old or replacing the new wires, so I cleared that and restarted the car. The window now behaves when opening and closing.
Next is to pull a Dave and rip off the rear bumper, seat, center panel, and dash to install the 3 antennae, Passive Go Module, and connection to the main fuse panel with custom wiring. (nothing is prewired). I'm also about ready to remove shell 2 and begin rewiring and repiping the folding top, adding in rear PDC and a backup camera. It will look like I left it in a bad neighborhood for a while.
