E89 Comfort Access Retrofit
- Thread starter Christopher72
- Start date
Scottish Borders
Ohio
Some pictures... This may eventually make it into a how-to.
Removing the H-brace gave significant access to everything, with the window in the closed position.
Disconnecting the door wire harness was a pinch-pullout to unlock—simple once understood but puzzled me for a few minutes.
But the most important was all of the pictures I took when disassembling it, especially since I reassembled it a week later.
My breaker-based CA wire harness had missing or broken clips, which had to be replaced. Using the harness I removed as a template, I placed the replacement clips and cleaned up any stray broken tape on the new(used) part.
They keep the harness in place and prevent it from interfering with the window and routing -- Part numbers 61136945260, 61139285770, 61139285770 are probably interchangeable as wire clips go, as well as the door yellow and blue door card clips.
The passenger side door is back together now, and all previous functions work fine (Window, Mirror, Lights, Sensors, Sonic Sensors, etc.). The CA can't be tested until the Go module is installed. I am working on the Driver side tomorrow, and I'll take more step-by-step pictures now that I know what is vital in the process. I doubt that too many will want to attempt this, but at least I can share it with those who search for it.
The most important step is truly getting your VIN modified for feature S322 and a CA-enabled key that goes with it. If you can't get that, then the rest of the mechanical stuff doesn't matter because nothing that is installed will work without a working CA key for your VIN.
Removing the H-brace gave significant access to everything, with the window in the closed position.
Disconnecting the door wire harness was a pinch-pullout to unlock—simple once understood but puzzled me for a few minutes.
But the most important was all of the pictures I took when disassembling it, especially since I reassembled it a week later.
My breaker-based CA wire harness had missing or broken clips, which had to be replaced. Using the harness I removed as a template, I placed the replacement clips and cleaned up any stray broken tape on the new(used) part.
They keep the harness in place and prevent it from interfering with the window and routing -- Part numbers 61136945260, 61139285770, 61139285770 are probably interchangeable as wire clips go, as well as the door yellow and blue door card clips.
The passenger side door is back together now, and all previous functions work fine (Window, Mirror, Lights, Sensors, Sonic Sensors, etc.). The CA can't be tested until the Go module is installed. I am working on the Driver side tomorrow, and I'll take more step-by-step pictures now that I know what is vital in the process. I doubt that too many will want to attempt this, but at least I can share it with those who search for it.
The most important step is truly getting your VIN modified for feature S322 and a CA-enabled key that goes with it. If you can't get that, then the rest of the mechanical stuff doesn't matter because nothing that is installed will work without a working CA key for your VIN.
Slow work! I realized that I had two passenger wire looms after disassembling the driver-side door! 
Apparently, it matters if the donor car speaks in received pronunciation. I returned to Ebay to pick up a 'Merican Left Door wire harness for $35. It has a larger panel connection to support the multiple window control panel. (Driver vs Passenger)
In testing the door, I noticed that the handle didn't cause the window to lower when the door was opened and then rise after closing. Protool found a door short code that I expect was caused when yanking out the old or replacing the new wires, so I cleared that and restarted the car. The window now behaves when opening and closing.
Next is to pull a Dave and rip off the rear bumper, seat, center panel, and dash to install the 3 antennae, Passive Go Module, and connection to the main fuse panel with custom wiring. (nothing is prewired). I'm also about ready to remove shell 2 and begin rewiring and repiping the folding top, adding in rear PDC and a backup camera. It will look like I left it in a bad neighborhood for a while.
Apparently, it matters if the donor car speaks in received pronunciation. I returned to Ebay to pick up a 'Merican Left Door wire harness for $35. It has a larger panel connection to support the multiple window control panel. (Driver vs Passenger)In testing the door, I noticed that the handle didn't cause the window to lower when the door was opened and then rise after closing. Protool found a door short code that I expect was caused when yanking out the old or replacing the new wires, so I cleared that and restarted the car. The window now behaves when opening and closing.
Next is to pull a Dave and rip off the rear bumper, seat, center panel, and dash to install the 3 antennae, Passive Go Module, and connection to the main fuse panel with custom wiring. (nothing is prewired). I'm also about ready to remove shell 2 and begin rewiring and repiping the folding top, adding in rear PDC and a backup camera. It will look like I left it in a bad neighborhood for a while.
Have you managed to get the CA finished and working?Slow work! I realized that I had two passenger wire looms after disassembling the driver-side door!
In testing the door, I noticed that the handle didn't cause the window to lower when the door was opened and then rise after closing. Protool found a door short code that I expect was caused when yanking out the old or replacing the new wires, so I cleared that and restarted the car. The window now behaves when opening and closing.
Next is to pull a Dave and rip off the rear bumper, seat, center panel, and dash to install the 3 antennae, Passive Go Module, and connection to the main fuse panel with custom wiring. (nothing is prewired). I'm also about ready to remove shell 2 and begin rewiring and repiping the folding top, adding in rear PDC and a backup camera. It will look like I left it in a bad neighborhood for a while.
I have it in queue for this winter. I tend not to disect the E89 in the sunny seasons. That 'fit was put on hold while I refurbed the broken top. I still need to run the custom loom and antennae and connect up the go module and such. Coding as well. I was hoping that Dave's genius would have completed his OEM style refit on the camera to take advantage of it while doing my CA and rear sensors 'fits. I can tell you that my CA key works for my CAS just like my non-CA keys, so the VIN update in the BMW system now sees my car with that VO.
In the meantime, I've picked up a '15 328xi F30 (N20)white with coral red interior for my 16 year old and will be helping him a bit to get the timing chain replaced and an overall needful things in the next month. I'm reskinning my daughter's 2004 Lexus leather seats that are cracked with synth leather later tonight to send it to college with her. A dad's list always has his needs last.
In the meantime, I've picked up a '15 328xi F30 (N20)white with coral red interior for my 16 year old and will be helping him a bit to get the timing chain replaced and an overall needful things in the next month. I'm reskinning my daughter's 2004 Lexus leather seats that are cracked with synth leather later tonight to send it to college with her. A dad's list always has his needs last.
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Ok, restarting this adventure. Sometimes the journey is the best part of the experience.
Getting the back bumper off without damaging anything is really about taking time and being careful. Almost everyone I had seen do it broke at least something. I removed all of the 8mm screws (1) and then the two hidden 10mm ones. (2)
I squirted some lithium grease into the areas with the retaining tabs to help convince them to release without breaking. It's not a paint solvent and removing it with a microfiber cloth before it dried didnt appear to leave residue.
Removing the taillights isn't necessary to remove the bumper, but it did give me the ability to reach a spudger into the side to help the tabs release, so I would recommend it. My intention is to punch the PDC holes, install the reverse camera and consider also placing the rear facing dash cam. The CAS antenna also has to go somewhere back there... I need to dust off my notes on that one. I'll take advantage of the accessibility of the exhaust tips to give them a polish too.. any recommendations on what to use there?
It's up on cribs for accessibility and stability. Much easier to work on raised and I can get inside of it without worrying about jackstands toppling.
Getting the back bumper off without damaging anything is really about taking time and being careful. Almost everyone I had seen do it broke at least something. I removed all of the 8mm screws (1) and then the two hidden 10mm ones. (2)
I squirted some lithium grease into the areas with the retaining tabs to help convince them to release without breaking. It's not a paint solvent and removing it with a microfiber cloth before it dried didnt appear to leave residue.
Removing the taillights isn't necessary to remove the bumper, but it did give me the ability to reach a spudger into the side to help the tabs release, so I would recommend it. My intention is to punch the PDC holes, install the reverse camera and consider also placing the rear facing dash cam. The CAS antenna also has to go somewhere back there... I need to dust off my notes on that one. I'll take advantage of the accessibility of the exhaust tips to give them a polish too.. any recommendations on what to use there?
It's up on cribs for accessibility and stability. Much easier to work on raised and I can get inside of it without worrying about jackstands toppling.
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Slow progress. Too many kids and sports.
Added the rear CA antenna along with the rear PDC sensors and resealed the grommet and wiring.
The right hand grommet is filled with silicone or something of the like to prevent intrusion. I had to cut the tesa tape and pull it back over itself completely to get both PDC and CA wires through the existing grommet. I didn't go the route of cutting the grommet mostly because I wanted the best seal. I squirted some 3m gasket seal inside the grommet wiresbefore putting it back in place. Additionally used silicone self adhearing tape, then Xfasten harness tape over for closer to eom look. It's a little chunky but sealed.
I'm removing up to the center console to run a video cable through the left side grommet. While all of that is open , the other 3 CA antennae will be installed and the PDC and CA harnesses threaded to the main fusebox. I don't know if I'll get that fully wired this weekend, but I want to get it back to at least drivable.
Also put some good effort to polish those exhaust tips with Mother's metal polish and some #0000 steel wool.
Added the rear CA antenna along with the rear PDC sensors and resealed the grommet and wiring.
The right hand grommet is filled with silicone or something of the like to prevent intrusion. I had to cut the tesa tape and pull it back over itself completely to get both PDC and CA wires through the existing grommet. I didn't go the route of cutting the grommet mostly because I wanted the best seal. I squirted some 3m gasket seal inside the grommet wiresbefore putting it back in place. Additionally used silicone self adhearing tape, then Xfasten harness tape over for closer to eom look. It's a little chunky but sealed.
I'm removing up to the center console to run a video cable through the left side grommet. While all of that is open , the other 3 CA antennae will be installed and the PDC and CA harnesses threaded to the main fusebox. I don't know if I'll get that fully wired this weekend, but I want to get it back to at least drivable.
Also put some good effort to polish those exhaust tips with Mother's metal polish and some #0000 steel wool.
I'm routed to the fusebox now -- I have to say that using Copilot+Anthropic (Copilot Cowork) or Claude Cowork helps with some of this barely charted waters, especially in the detailed instructions for future ISTA coding. This electrical stuff is intimidating so I go really slow planning and triplechecking. Or maybe I'm just enjoying hiding out in the garage from #shewhomustbeobeyed this Easter
I connected to the trunk CA antenna and then routed along with the main wire loom forward. I hit the main ground bar/block to the right of the roof lifting mechanism with the ground wire. no pictures, but its hard to miss with all of the other brown wires leading to it.
Taking off the center console helped with routing the antenna cable to the rear of the console (left of the yellow dot), the main custom wire loom is heading up the right side sill with the PDC looms. The front sensor will get wired as the CA loom crosses the front under the dash to get to the CAS unit under the drivers side dash.
While I had the center console off, I epoxied reinforcement on the spring retainers in the center armtrest. One had cracked and broken loose.
I connected to the trunk CA antenna and then routed along with the main wire loom forward. I hit the main ground bar/block to the right of the roof lifting mechanism with the ground wire. no pictures, but its hard to miss with all of the other brown wires leading to it.
Taking off the center console helped with routing the antenna cable to the rear of the console (left of the yellow dot), the main custom wire loom is heading up the right side sill with the PDC looms. The front sensor will get wired as the CA loom crosses the front under the dash to get to the CAS unit under the drivers side dash.
While I had the center console off, I epoxied reinforcement on the spring retainers in the center armtrest. One had cracked and broken loose.
Claude is really useful..it’s helping me on my E89 book..
Great work you’re doing there!