Draining the well...

Sidewaze Samm

Senior member
Sth. Manchester/Cheshire border
So there is water behind the passenger seat, which I've now established is coming from the roof motor well, which is full of water. (The roof motor has already been relocated to the boot :thumbsup: )

The question is, what is the best way to deal with this:
- poke something(?) down from the top to clear the drain hole?
- find someone with smaller hands to poke the same something up from underneath, to clear the drain hole?
- remove the rubber grommet from the drain hole?

I'm inclined to remove the rubber grommet (assuming this is possible), as I see it being a permanent solution. But will this cause any future issues of any kind?

cheers
 
Personally, I use one of those long flexible drain and toilet cleaner wires and poke it up through the bottom hole (grommet removed).
Checked both drain holes recently as I have some water ingress passenger side but it's actually due to a sh!tty door membrane. grrr
 
I cleared mine by poking two metal skewers taped together from top down then getting underneath and clearing from the bottom (i managed to do without jacking up but i have small hands! You can take the rubber grommet out but apparently it can cause more road noise.
 
The increased road noise thing is a total myth. Pipe cleaner from below is how I do mine.

A simple test to see if they are clear is to fill a jug with water and with the roof lowered, pour it down the space where the roof hinges are. It should appear again immediately just in front of the rear wheels
 
One of these will do the job of sucking it out from the top and you can use it to change your oil (if you have a dip stick)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/High-Quality-Vacuum-Oil-Fluid-Extractor-Pump-Manual-7ltr-Replaces-Cheap-UK/25007558367?iid=183295436303&chn=ps
 
The drain top to bottom is actually quite short, a BBQ skewer worked for me. IMO the jobs worth taking the extra time and doing properly, thus doing it once (every six months).

Wheel off, trim off and grab the grommet tightly, pulling the insert with it. Clean the grommet and insert and then check the drain is draining by using the jug method mention above. Use the skewer if not.

On the motor side if still in the original position, you're really stuck to working from the bottom drain hole.
 
Surely it's obvious - buy a car with a proper roof in the first place! :fuelfire:
 
One short-term quick fix...
Just popped round to the local aquatic store and bought a £9 manual syphonic pump thingy, popped one end into the well from above and ten seconds later it's empty :thumbsup:
Of course there's still the issue of it being blocked, but too cold and wet atm to lay down and fiddle with the grommet from underneath.
 
A lot of people misunderstand the configuration of the drainage system. What you actually have in the bottom of the plastic 'bin' is a hole which is connected to a flexible pipe (a few inches long) which then connects to the bung on the underside of the inner sill.

Often the whole tube gets filled with crap which backs up from the bung getting gunked up. Working from beneath, remove the bung completely then feed a pipe cleaner or equivalent right up through the tube so that it emerges out into the plastic bin. It's not as easy as it sounds as the tube is not straight and also there is a lip on the hole as it enters the bin.

Once you have cleared it once though and not refitted the bungs you are unlikely to have a repeat of the problem. Jug test once a week while doing your regular wash to confirm.
 
I remove these regularly for people when I relocate the roof motors. it takes about 30 seconds.

1) Jack up the car using the rear jacking point
2) The increased height allows you to get elbow room to put your hand up through the sill, feel for the rubber bung towards the front of the car and prize it off.

This avoids the need for removing the wheel and arch cover plate.
 
ph001 said:
A lot of people misunderstand the configuration of the drainage system. What you
actually have in the bottom of the plastic 'bin' is a hole which is connected to a flexible pipe (a few inches long) which then connects to the bung on the underside of the inner sill.
well it had me fooled!
 
Number5 said:
The increased height allows you to get elbow room to put your hand up through the sill,
. Sounds sensible - got to be a bit of a contortionist or find someone with smaller hands to reach it without a jack.
 
With mine I always tend to find its the hole at the top of the drain tube/bottom of where the motor lives that blocks rather than the bungs at the bottom. Maybe it's just where I park mine or something. Its kept on a driveway but not under any trees etc though.
 
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