DME updates with WinKFP

S

spazmochad

Member
Has anyone had any luck updating their DME module for a M54 E85?

I have a 2003 3.0i auto which hasn't had a single module updated.

I've acquired a K-line cable, software and the latest SP-Daten but there's a couple of points I'm unsure of.

- I have a new battery and I'll likely charge it up to max out of the car before I start, but I keep hearing I need a constant 13-14v in order to update. Then I read people are just doing if off the battery. Professionals seem to use a 100a 12v battery charger which cost upwards of 600quid.

- When doing the DME update, do I need to follow it up with a transmission update straight away? I intend to pull to info for both the DME and trans before I start, I'm just unsure if they will be out of sync if I only do the DME.

I'm in Basingstoke if anyone is local :)
 
I’ve read similar stories..my experience applies to E89s but I can’t see E85s being that much different.

I can’t see the bus voltage needing to be sky high, often on E89s the charging circuit is hardly operating.

What I do is first charge the battery fully using my normal 4 amp intelligent charger.

Then I hook up my 15a charger https://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-Charger-Trickle-Intelligent-Maintainer/dp/B07TQJQSFN which is only £50 ish

If you only have the DME circuits on, ie no air con/fan/lights I can’t see the current drain being much above 15a.

I’ve used this now whilst re-flashing DME and TCU without issue.

Obviously your call.

Suggest you do the DME, re charge, then TCU, unlikely but you can always clear any errors later.
 
Car is very intermittent with starting and when it does it will stall out. Maybe 10 mins or 30 seconds.

I've been through just about everything now so this is just to rule out bulletin 12 49 06 since I've had a 28B2 logged along with a few other codes. Reading around I'd like to try a software re-flash.

Z6UHHMp.png

I think I'm going to try to build a 14v power supply to give constant power before I attempt it. There's one from china for £250 which a certain loud mouth on you-tube seems to use, £600 one from Sealy, but an old HP server PSU can be converted for less than £50.

Unlike B21's E89 I worry it may take a long time to flash an early E85 as it's not using a d-can cable which I assume is faster.

I do have a 1a trickle charger and 8a smart charger. I've seen people say not to use a smart charger to do it though. Amps not being high enough, not to connect to the battery with it directly and I know my smart one will keep turning on and off when the battery is full - I worry it will see 12v one minute and 13/14v the next...
 
Grab a CTEK MXS10, it has a supply mode at 10A and is fine for early E series stuff, when I do E9x M3s I tend to chuck on my MXS25 which has a supply mode at 25A though as the draw is greater.
 
Martyn said:
Grab a CTEK MXS10, it has a supply mode at 10A and is fine for early E series stuff, when I do E9x M3s I tend to chuck on my MXS25 which has a supply mode at 25A though as the draw is greater.
Click to expand...

Do you plug it in under the bonnet or directly onto the terminals of the battery? This is the highest amp one I have https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09DG1BR85.
 
Under the bonnet.

If you don’t have anything with a supply mode then using another vehicle with the engine running and jump leads is fine.
 
Martyn said:
Under the bonnet.

If you don’t have anything with a supply mode then using another vehicle with the engine running and jump leads is fine.
Click to expand...

Cheers for the confirmation Martyn. I will be pushing my luck using the SWMBO's car so I'll look into a dedicated power supply.
 
spazmochad said:
Car is very intermittent with starting and when it does it will stall out. Maybe 10 mins or 30 seconds.

I've been through just about everything now so this is just to rule out bulletin 12 49 06 since I've had a 28B2 logged along with a few other codes. Reading around I'd like to try a software re-flash.

Z6UHHMp.png

I think I'm going to try to build a 14v power supply to give constant power before I attempt it. There's one from china for £250 which a certain loud mouth on you-tube seems to use, £600 one from Sealy, but an old HP server PSU can be converted for less than £50.

Unlike B21's E89 I worry it may take a long time to flash an early E85 as it's not using a d-can cable which I assume is faster.

I do have a 1a trickle charger and 8a smart charger. I've seen people say not to use a smart charger to do it though. Amps not being high enough, not to connect to the battery with it directly and I know my smart one will keep turning on and off when the battery is full - I worry it will see 12v one minute and 13/14v the next...
Click to expand...

Did you manage a software reflash?
 
Yeah I got there in the end, built a 14v power supply from an old HP server PSU. Finding the correct files to flash was a bit of a mare from what I remember - the codes listed on the label were so old I had to dig through several old versions of SP-Daten to find the latest files for my DME and EGS modules before I was sure enough to commit them with WinFKP.

I also bought another bit of kit for cloning the DMEs like-for-like onto new/used units, so I'm also able to do that now.
 
[ref]spazmochad[/ref], I think I may have an issue with my DME. Showing a checksum error and the throttle isn't responding.
[ref]bigwinn[/ref] is popping over next week to see if he can reflash it, but I'm feeling pessimistic.
So as it seems you have a handle on these things perhaps you may be able to help me?
If it turns out my DME is goosed do you know how I go about replacing it? Can I get a second-hand one and 'clone' it to my car?
Do I need matching Part Numbers?
I am very much a mechanical type and as soon as any form of electrickery is involved I'm way out of my comfort zone!
Any info you could pass on would be appreciated.
 
I think the general advice was to try a flash update to correct the issue before replacing the DME. I would advise you can take a backup first but I just YOLO'd mine since the car wasn't functioning and I was desperate. My issue turned out to be an unrelated electrical issue so there is hope these errors can log without a hardware fault. Before I figured out my issue I had success cloning onto another DME (which is still in the car), so again you can always clone and update the new one if it's a hardware fault so long as the DME is able to communicate.

The way I went about choosing a new DME was by checking the part number on the existing one - this is the number by the BMW logo on the label above Made in Germany. Take the 7 digit number over to realoem and find your car. Go to engine electrical system > control units and select the first item, Basic control unit DME. The part numbers listed there should include one with the last 7 digits matching the number on your DME. I took it as any of the DME part numbers there as being suitable for me to clone onto. There were lots from various car models so I just went with one from an X5 which was a few years newer.
 
Oh and the sticker with the VIN on the DME also has the software it was programmed with IIRC, I think this helped me pick the correct zusb update to flash.
 
spazmochad said:
Oh and the sticker with the VIN on the DME also has the software it was programmed with IIRC, I think this helped me pick the correct zusb update to flash.
Click to expand...

Any chance you could do a how to guide using the system? I’m very conversant with inpa but not so much with winkfp
 
spazmochad said:
I think the general advice was to try a flash update to correct the issue before replacing the DME. I would advise you can take a backup first but I just YOLO'd mine since the car wasn't functioning and I was desperate. My issue turned out to be an unrelated electrical issue so there is hope these errors can log without a hardware fault. Before I figured out my issue I had success cloning onto another DME (which is still in the car), so again you can always clone and update the new one if it's a hardware fault so long as the DME is able to communicate.

The way I went about choosing a new DME was by checking the part number on the existing one - this is the number by the BMW logo on the label above Made in Germany. Take the 7 digit number over to realoem and find your car. Go to engine electrical system > control units and select the first item, Basic control unit DME. The part numbers listed there should include one with the last 7 digits matching the number on your DME. I took it as any of the DME part numbers there as being suitable for me to clone onto. There were lots from various car models so I just went with one from an X5 which was a few years newer.
Click to expand...
Thank you for that input.
Hopefully between your advice and bigwinn's assistance I can get the damn thing sorted.
It's the 'Project Cheapskate' I picked up with the EPS problem. That's all sorted and its had all new suspension etc and then threw this little curve ball at me!
 
It's been a while since I did it but these are the videos I have in my watched list which probably helped me through it ("BMW doctor" is best ignored for the most part):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0zhugj7vU4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHYUZk4GEqo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MerObbEVPNI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdoVLTMS32A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ag-nbmFkE20

From what I remember there are two ways in which you can flash - have it pick the correct ZB-Number automagically or pick the right one to use manually. I had to do it manually for the DME for some reason iirc. How you pick it is a bit hazy but one of those video shows how to do it for sure. It's essentially finding the current software version (on the label) and going through the pairs of numbers in the updates file index to map through the old software version to the new one. I don't think you need to enter the VIN either if you are simply updating the ECU.

Providing it picks the correct update for you it's really simple, just have the laptop/pc somewhere secure and stay away from the OBD port whilst it's flashing as it will take a while.
 
[ref]spazmochad[/ref], I think we've proved by DME is goosed!
[ref]bigwinn[/ref]'s INPA could not even find it!
Does your knowledge extend as far as being able to help me sort a replacement?
 
If you take a piccy of your current DME label and send it to me then I can look up part numbers. Then so long the chip is read-able happy to help cloning it over if needed as I still have the ECU tool and the software setup on a laptop.
 
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