DIY oil change-my job failed.

Socket on a breaker bar? Just be careful with the angle.

If it's over-tightened and not seized due to lack of use, the thread will almost certainly be damaged and it may be impossible to reseal the sump properly. You can get it tapped out or helicoiled quite cheaply.
 
Additional oil in ???
So you are now running with an overfilled system ?

Put a socket on a breaker bar, then put a jack onto the setup to hold it onto the sump and pull!
BUT - Without meaning to be rude, if you have any doubts about which way to unscrew a sump plug, please don't go any further !
 
Copiously Plus Gas the plug and leave overnight. Repeat again long before you intend to do the job. Give the plug a good few taps with a hammer to help try and break the seizure. Squarely apply force using a socket and again try shocking the plug loose.
Don't rush the job and make sure you give the Plus Gas plenty of hours in order for it to penetrate.
 
6 sided socket and make sure are your driving squarely to try and undo the sump bolt..


Is the sump plug on the bottom of the sump or on the side?
 
BRC said:
Copiously Plus Gas the plug and leave overnight. Repeat again long before you intend to do the job. Give the plug a good few taps with a hammer to help try and break the seizure. Squarely apply force using a socket and again try shocking the plug loose.
Don't rush the job and make sure you give the Plus Gas plenty of hours in order for it to penetrate.
Click to expand...
+1 If you've rounded the plug and the socket slips you could use stilsons :)
 
ronk said:
Additional oil in ???
So you are now running with an overfilled system ?

Put a socket on a breaker bar, then put a jack onto the setup to hold it onto the sump and pull!
BUT - Without meaning to be rude, if you have any doubts about which way to unscrew a sump plug, please don't go any further !
Click to expand...

what do you mean running with an overfilled system???? You are refferring to the small can of engine flush I poured in the engine? I am not driving the car at all if that is your point. And I have no doubts whatsoever about which way to unscrew a sump plug.
 
Z4M-2006 said:
6 sided socket and make sure are your driving squarely to try and undo the sump bolt..


Is the sump plug on the bottom of the sump or on the side?
Click to expand...

Hi, the sump plug is on the bottom of the sump. It wont turn one damn mm. I gave up on it. The only way I can get this done is by buying a new sump and replace the whole lot of it.
 
metal licker said:
BRC said:
Copiously Plus Gas the plug and leave overnight. Repeat again long before you intend to do the job. Give the plug a good few taps with a hammer to help try and break the seizure. Squarely apply force using a socket and again try shocking the plug loose.
Don't rush the job and make sure you give the Plus Gas plenty of hours in order for it to penetrate.
Click to expand...
+1 If you've rounded the plug and the socket slips you could use stilsons :)
Click to expand...

I used stilsons and any other kind of tool you might think of. Nothing moves.
 
BRC said:
Copiously Plus Gas the plug and leave overnight. Repeat again long before you intend to do the job. Give the plug a good few taps with a hammer to help try and break the seizure. Squarely apply force using a socket and again try shocking the plug loose.
Don't rush the job and make sure you give the Plus Gas plenty of hours in order for it to penetrate.
Click to expand...

In my country, plus gas is nonexistent. I used wd-40 with no luck though. Thanks still for the suggestion.
 
Just to let you all know that I have changed oils in friends' cars for years and I never found this problem. I think I have to buy the whole sump and start from there because this god damn plug is impossible to unscrew.
 
Are you on friendly terms with the dealer to see if you can pop it on the bridge for them to undo it / redo it at 25nm?
 
Don t forget that I used a can of engine flush and so I am not willing to drive the car anywhere. Thats the problem. Or else I have to use towing to get it to the dealer.
 
I had the same problem with another car years ago - put a jack under the the socket and bar and apply pressure to it in order to prevent the socket coming off - don't use a bi socket - use a full hex socket.

Who put the plug in last time?
 
4zwmb said:
BRC said:
Copiously Plus Gas the plug and leave overnight. Repeat again long before you intend to do the job. Give the plug a good few taps with a hammer to help try and break the seizure. Squarely apply force using a socket and again try shocking the plug loose.
Don't rush the job and make sure you give the Plus Gas plenty of hours in order for it to penetrate.
Click to expand...

In my country, plus gas is nonexistent. I used wd-40 with no luck though. Thanks still for the suggestion.
Click to expand...

Take your point. Can you get hold of this stuff: http://wd40specialist.com/products/penetrating-oil/
Never tried it myself but it is supposed to be penetrating so may just help.
Plain traditional WD is of no use whatsoever and only serves to prolong the frustration. I'm a firm believe that WD is a complete waste of money and should only be used for what is was created to do i.e Displace Water. Water Displacement is not fit for anything else.
 
4zwmb said:
Don t forget that I used a can of engine flush and so I am not willing to drive the car anywhere. Thats the problem. Or else I have to use towing to get it to the dealer.
Click to expand...

You got any breakdown cover?
If you've contaminated / overfilled the system that should qualify you for assistance.
If you get a decent bloke on the truck he might use his kit to remove it rather than tow you!
 
Ive experienced plenty of slightly seized sump plugs. Spanners are definitely not the way to go, whether open end or ring. This is because the plug is often made out of soft alloy, to make sure it expands/contracts correctly with oil temp.

Use a 6-pointed socket on a 1/2" ratchet/bar and give it a sharp shock (firm tap with a mallet).

Failing that, get one of these - they are FANTASTIC. I use mine regularly over my 240V impact gun. Great for keeping in the car also for speedy wheel changes! They work on a flywheel charged hammer.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cir13c-1-2in-impact-wrench-kit-12v
 
after years of messing with old cars seized nuts and bolts are a common problem. the best solution I've found is a genuine hex socket (which grips six sides as opposed to a double hex which grips 12 'corners'), heat and a long breaker bar. May be difficult to apply enough heat at home, you need oxyacetylene applied to the bolt head only.

good luck
 
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