Disa, vanos & water pump marathon - NOW WITH FAULT CODES
- Thread starter enuff_zed
- Start date
I'd found a thread from an E46 330 where the vanos had been changed AFTER it had been laid up for a while, which threw this code: is it possible that its 'mechanical' issue is that the seals have dried up and now restrict movement?
Just looking for alternate answers as the solenoids werent at fault prior to the vanos swap, so why fail now? And this vanos unit was on the shelf off a car for a while?
Thoughts Rob, Chris?
Stuart
Just looking for alternate answers as the solenoids werent at fault prior to the vanos swap, so why fail now? And this vanos unit was on the shelf off a car for a while?
Thoughts Rob, Chris?
Stuart
Attleborough, Norfolk
Hi chaps,
I was surprised just to see that one tbh.
At the moment it's just relief that it is showing a positive fault, if you know what I mean. Chasing air leaks would be a nightmare.
Done a bit of googling and a few people do say that if you fit a vanos unit that has been rebuilt and sat around, it may get a bit sticky. There are also pointers to the actual valve behind the solenoid getting stuck if it dries out.
Fortunately it's the inlet one, easier to get to, so in between the work I'm actually supposed to be doing at home, I shall whip that off, do a few checks, solenoid voltages, does it actually move, is the valve free to move, is the connector clean, etc.
Dodging rain showers too, so that doesn't help!
On the plus side, I've racked up hundreds of posts without any real input to helping maintain the cars, so maybe now I can contribute usefully :roll:
I was surprised just to see that one tbh.
At the moment it's just relief that it is showing a positive fault, if you know what I mean. Chasing air leaks would be a nightmare.
Done a bit of googling and a few people do say that if you fit a vanos unit that has been rebuilt and sat around, it may get a bit sticky. There are also pointers to the actual valve behind the solenoid getting stuck if it dries out.
Fortunately it's the inlet one, easier to get to, so in between the work I'm actually supposed to be doing at home, I shall whip that off, do a few checks, solenoid voltages, does it actually move, is the valve free to move, is the connector clean, etc.
Dodging rain showers too, so that doesn't help!
On the plus side, I've racked up hundreds of posts without any real input to helping maintain the cars, so maybe now I can contribute usefully :roll:
Quick Google search on that code found this http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-3-series-e46-1999-2005/898758-28b8-code.html
Your code seems to point to the Vanos, pull the solonoids and clean and check them out for free movement under finger pressure.
Your code seems to point to the Vanos, pull the solonoids and clean and check them out for free movement under finger pressure.
Right, firstly, I apologise that this will be coming at you piecemeal, but I am trying to meet a work deadline at the same time.............. and it's pi$$ing down here.
Inlet solenoid off.
Put finger in hole, try to push in the valve/piston. Won't budge!
Now need to try to remove it without dismantling everything else.
Luckily have the old unit on the bench so I can experiment with tools to use on that.
Watch this space.
Edit: Just a thought, as I have the old unit as well, does anyone see any issue with using the valve from that if it moves more freely?
Inlet solenoid off.
Put finger in hole, try to push in the valve/piston. Won't budge!
Now need to try to remove it without dismantling everything else.
Luckily have the old unit on the bench so I can experiment with tools to use on that.
Watch this space.
Edit: Just a thought, as I have the old unit as well, does anyone see any issue with using the valve from that if it moves more freely?
Chris_D said:What else would generate a code for inlet camshaft Rob? I’m only aware of posn sensor. :?Smartbear said:That doesn’t say sensor, it says mechanical-maybe it’s deeper than a sensor. Swap them & see if the fault moves with the swap
Rob
I’m thinking that if the vanos isn’t moving then the inlet timing will be flagged up as wrong and the sensor itself could be fine.
Rob
Result!
And a cheap one too! Well it cost the price of a code reader I needed anyway.
The inlet solenoid valve was stuck in the bore.
I've got it out, cleaned it up, lubricated it thoroughly, did a test fit on the old unit on the bench, then reinstalled it.
Reset adaptations and fired it up. Purring as it should be.
Lessons learned:
1. Most important - engage with the forum members for help and listen to them. The support has been great, thank you.
2. Always check everything before you put it all back together. Somehow I didn't find the sticking valve when it was all nice and accessible on the bench. You can be sure I'll be triple checking everything from now on.
3. If you're doing a VANOS refurb, either do it all in one go on your old one, or if you buy an of the shelf one already done, as I did, be sure to check it is all moving freely, don't leave it sitting around to long and probably best to fill it with oil the day you get it.
4. Never give up!
I've done a lot of searching on the forum over the last few days, but I don't recall ever finding this issue. Hopefully my enhanced stress levels over the last few days will benefit some other member in the future.
And a cheap one too! Well it cost the price of a code reader I needed anyway.
The inlet solenoid valve was stuck in the bore.
I've got it out, cleaned it up, lubricated it thoroughly, did a test fit on the old unit on the bench, then reinstalled it.
Reset adaptations and fired it up. Purring as it should be.
Lessons learned:
1. Most important - engage with the forum members for help and listen to them. The support has been great, thank you.
2. Always check everything before you put it all back together. Somehow I didn't find the sticking valve when it was all nice and accessible on the bench. You can be sure I'll be triple checking everything from now on.
3. If you're doing a VANOS refurb, either do it all in one go on your old one, or if you buy an of the shelf one already done, as I did, be sure to check it is all moving freely, don't leave it sitting around to long and probably best to fill it with oil the day you get it.
4. Never give up!
I've done a lot of searching on the forum over the last few days, but I don't recall ever finding this issue. Hopefully my enhanced stress levels over the last few days will benefit some other member in the future.
Sludgepump
Member
Glad you got this sorted. I have just done my Vanos seals and everything seems fine (touch wood). I did the plank of wood
against the water pump technique to get the vanos off. Apart from that it was pretty straight forward. The little LH screws are a fiddle
to fit in such a small space.
Can you tell me what fault code reader you bought?
Father Christmas (Mrs Sludgepump) is asking me what I want for christmas!
against the water pump technique to get the vanos off. Apart from that it was pretty straight forward. The little LH screws are a fiddle
to fit in such a small space.
Can you tell me what fault code reader you bought?
Father Christmas (Mrs Sludgepump) is asking me what I want for christmas!
Sludgepump said:
Thanks. It was the exhaust side plastic cap fitting that drove me to tears!
As mentioned, because I was doing the water pump too, I elected to lift the engine about an inch, which was pretty easy. The Vanos came straight out. But strangely, to refit the exhaust plastic cap I eventually found it easier to lower the engine back down as it gave more clearance for the pliers.
I had been looking at readers for several months, weighing up the pros and cons and when finally pushed into it I bought the Autophix 5900 from Amazon. Very simple to use, clear on screen instructions and worked straight out of the box. Obviously only used it for this one thing so far, but very happy with it.
Note of warning, as Father Christmas may not be so clued up on these things :wink: ; there are a few different Autophix models, but they don't all do BMW. There was a more expensive one too, which seemed to do everything except park the car for you, but I stuck with the basic one.
Chris_D said:
Chris, I did do a specific scan on the engine side and this was all it gave me.
Yes, there is a function to scan the whole thing, but hey, it's running fine, I've just had a right faff fixing this and I'm currently doing the old fingers in ears, eyes tight shut and shouting la-la-la, theorising that what I don't know about can't give me sleepless nights
enuff_zed said:Chris_D said:
Chris, I did do a specific scan on the engine side and this was all it gave me.
Yes, there is a function to scan the whole thing, but hey, it's running fine, I've just had a right faff fixing this and I'm currently doing the old fingers in ears, eyes tight shut and shouting la-la-la, theorising that what I don't know about can't give me sleepless nights
Good to hear you sorted it in the end!
The forum's also been an invaluable resource for getting my zed's issues and foibles sorted too!
Yup, took me ages to track down the problem to the fact I never checked the bloody thing in the first place!Smartbear said:Good detective work
Rob
I can only hope this forewarns others.
From an Old Skool Ford kind of background, this was my first foray into the world of scanning for error codes and I'm impressed that it was able to lead me to that so quickly. Fully converted now.
bigwinn said:So pleased you sorted it- good job!
Hope Mrs E_Z notices and appreciates the hard work!
Ah Stuart, as you may know, therein lies the issue.
Vall handed me the keys when the water pump failed and promptly went to Kos with her daughters and grandkids.
The sneaky plan was to change the pump but also do the vanos without her knowing and see if she noticed any difference.
So now you can see why I was sweating! She comes home tomorrow night and I was faced with trying to explain how changing a water pump causes a rough idle.
So saved myself a bit of grief there!
And sadly she doesn't see it as hard work as I enjoy the chance to get out and play cars.
In fact, I think she feels I should be grateful that she broke it in the first place. :roll:
Smartbear said:Chris_D said:What else would generate a code for inlet camshaft Rob? I’m only aware of posn sensor. :?Smartbear said:That doesn’t say sensor, it says mechanical-maybe it’s deeper than a sensor. Swap them & see if the fault moves with the swap
Rob
I’m thinking that if the vanos isn’t moving then the inlet timing will be flagged up as wrong and the sensor itself could be fine.
Rob
So it was along these lines then
Rob
