Did Dinan just brick my ecu? Advice please

[Starman]

Thanks again all, I bought a Carly and it should arrive from Germany in a week. Ill clear out the check engine light and have the Carly take a deep look.

The car runs perfectly and I can feel the added power. I like the throttle response a hell of a lot better. The stock throttle response felt extremely slow, press the peddle at a stop and it felt like there was a 2 second lag to start moving before. But then again, Im used to driving Honda's and Acuras, this is my first BMW.

I've owned over 20 Honda (mostly new) in my life and this is my first German car. This includes 3 Honda S2000's and sportier cars like the CRX, del Sol (VTEC, 160 hp model in 95), MDX, TL Type S (v6), TLX (v6), RDX (300 hp V6), etc... and others like a Lexus IS350 and Subaru WRX Sti.

I really love the performance aspects of the BMW (feels a lot like the Sti),. this is obvilously their strong point, but a lot of people sell the idea of "German Engineering" and the BMW has a lot of annoyances that I never had in a Honda like fit and finish issues (squeaking hard plastic interior pieces, lower then expected quality all around), subpar ergonomics of controls and terrible infotainment (although arguably, a lot of people bitch about Hondas but I'm an IT guy and I find them amazingly functional). There are times I wish the $70,000 (new price) Z4 was built as well as one of the several Honda Accords I owned at $30,000 (or the Lexus IS350), it feels more like my 2005 WRX Sti in build quality.

 

[Marcoose]

Happy to hear things are on the mend.

 

[Starman]

I seem to have a few issues with the Dinan flash. A few times now when I really punched it, the engine at high RPM feels like its misfiring. It was so bad yesterday that it popped the check engine light and then behaved really odd for a while. I could feel it rumbling any time I accelerated and the car wobbled like I had a flat tire. I drove it slow for a good 5 minutes and then the light popped off and it drove normal with no issues since. Any ideas?

 

[Marcoose]

Wow. That’s awful. So sorry.

I know next to nothing about these flashes. But a while back I’ve tried a bespoke MHD flash that wasn’t working well. I’ve removed it and reinstalled a few times. The misbehaviour would only appear with the flash. Then I bought a standard off the shelf package, flashed, and it’s all fine since.

So, have you isolated the problem?

 

[R.E92]

I seem to have a few issues with the Dinan flash. A few times now when I really punched it, the engine at high RPM feels like its misfiring. It was so bad yesterday that it popped the check engine light and then behaved really odd for a while. I could feel it rumbling any time I accelerated and the car wobbled like I had a flat tire. I drove it slow for a good 5 minutes and then the light popped off and it drove normal with no issues since. Any ideas?

You need to have a log of engine data to work out the reason for any problems. Does the dinan tool give you the ability to do that?

 

[Starman]

No, the Dinan tool looks like it was created for Windows 95 and is extremely basic, this is why I had a lot of these issues to start with. While I have a dedicated 1.2 gig internet connection that's flawless, when I flashed the first time, their app error'ed out at the beginning and bricked the CPU, a second attempt (After having to call them and get it unlocked) worked fine but took over 45 minutes of having to have the car on and battery charger attached and I think its charge barely even made that. This is because the basically flash stream it over the internet and one hiccup will error it out (so, you also gotta trust their internet connection). Its TERRIBLE.

I do have a Carly now with adapter and I'll run it while driving next time.

 

[Starman]

I just ran Carly and it tells me I have a cylinder 6 misfire. It probably the error from that last event, when I clear it, the error goes away.

Any ideas at this point?

I figure I need to put the stock flash on run Carly again.

I just bought this z4 and it has a warrentee on it, Im wondering if this issue wasn't already here when I bought it.

If I put the stock flash back on it, would they be able to tell I had placed a different flash on based on its date?

 

[R.E92]

Misfire probably happening because of the tune. The normal causes are weak plugs or coils, warranty won't help you there, they are maintenance items and probably won't cause a misfire on the stock tune until they are really neglected.

I personally wouldn't run any tune without having a proper data log from the car giving me information about the fuel, boost, trims and cylinder noise.

A dyno chart or scan for error codes doesn't really let you know much.

 

[Marcoose]

Starman, MHD say that when you remove and restore the OEM map, that no traces of third party maps are left behind. Does Dinan have that option?

I think you’re in Portland, and it would be overkill to drive to San Francisco just for that, but the trusted indy down the street works on this kind of problems. Look up Ottowerks on 80 Welsh St. If you cannot get through, we’ll exchange his contact info via PM. He might be able to help you on the phone. If it wasn’t for bloody Covid, you could even stay with us while your ride is being fixed.

FYI, MHD gave zero problems.

 

[Starman]

Misfire probably happening because of the tune. The normal causes are weak plugs or coils, warranty won't help you there, they are maintenance items and probably won't cause a misfire on the stock tune until they are really neglected.

I personally wouldn't run any tune without having a proper data log from the car giving me information about the fuel, boost, trims and cylinder noise.

A dyno chart or scan for error codes doesn't really let you know much.

My Z4 is a 2013 with 35K miles on it, would you suggest replacing the plugs or coils yet?

 

[Starman]

Starman, MHD say that when you remove and restore the OEM map, that no traces of third party maps are left behind. Does Dinan have that option?

I think you’re in Portland, and it would be overkill to drive to San Francisco just for that, but the trusted indy down the street works on this kind of problems. Look up Ottowerks on 80 Welsh St. If you cannot get through, we’ll exchange his contact info via PM. He might be able to help you on the phone. If it wasn’t for bloody Covid, you could even stay with us while your ride is being fixed.

FYI, MHD gave zero problems.

I got out and tested yesterday driving around the 'coov. I can confirm that just about every time I punch it and the turbo spools up hard, it sputters and pops up the check engine light and wobbles for about 5 minutes barely able to accelerate until it clears on its own and drives normal if I drive it normal. It happened all 3 times I tried it. I called up Dinan and got my tool unlocked again and Im going to flash the BMW firmware back on and see how it goes. Ill probably ask for a refund, not sure if I want to try another flash.

 

[R.E92]

Misfire probably happening because of the tune. The normal causes are weak plugs or coils, warranty won't help you there, they are maintenance items and probably won't cause a misfire on the stock tune until they are really neglected.

I personally wouldn't run any tune without having a proper data log from the car giving me information about the fuel, boost, trims and cylinder noise.

A dyno chart or scan for error codes doesn't really let you know much.

My Z4 is a 2013 with 35K miles on it, would you suggest replacing the plugs or coils yet?

Plugs and coils are consumables. I think recommended service interval for plugs is 30k anyway so they are due a change. I change mine every 15k just because they are cheap and it takes 10min.

Your misfire will go away when you go back to the stock tune just because the boost is lower but eventually it'll misfire on the stock tune as things degrade further.

 

[Starman]

Misfire probably happening because of the tune. The normal causes are weak plugs or coils, warranty won't help you there, they are maintenance items and probably won't cause a misfire on the stock tune until they are really neglected.

I personally wouldn't run any tune without having a proper data log from the car giving me information about the fuel, boost, trims and cylinder noise.

A dyno chart or scan for error codes doesn't really let you know much.

My Z4 is a 2013 with 35K miles on it, would you suggest replacing the plugs or coils yet?

Plugs and coils are consumables. I think recommended service interval for plugs is 30k anyway so they are due a change. I change mine every 15k just because they are cheap and it takes 10min.

Your misfire will go away when you go back to the stock tune just because the boost is lower but eventually it'll misfire on the stock tune as things degrade further.

Well, I put the stock firmware back on and beat the crap outta it for 30 minutes with absolutely no problems.

I have no idea if they did the plugs or coils, I bought it at 34K and I would bet they didn't. What would that run at a shop (not dealer) that can do them and if easy (how much?), you have any good resource that I can look at do DIY. Id prefer DIY to start learning the car.

 

[R.E92]

My Z4 is a 2013 with 35K miles on it, would you suggest replacing the plugs or coils yet?

Plugs and coils are consumables. I think recommended service interval for plugs is 30k anyway so they are due a change. I change mine every 15k just because they are cheap and it takes 10min.

Your misfire will go away when you go back to the stock tune just because the boost is lower but eventually it'll misfire on the stock tune as things degrade further.

Well, I put the stock firmware back on and beat the crap outta it for 30 minutes with absolutely no problems.

I have no idea if they did the plugs or coils, I bought it at 34K and I would bet they didn't. What would that run at a shop (not dealer) that can do them and if easy (how much?), you have any good resource that I can look at do DIY. Id prefer DIY to start learning the car.

Plugs are a nice DIY and really easy on the Z4. A specialist should charge 30min for the change, it's just the parts price they might sting you on.

If you are in the USA then use FCP euro, they are really the best place to get parts from.

They have an ignition system service kit available here:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-ignition-service-kit-12138647689ktx

You could just buy the plugs at $54 if you don't want to spend the extra on coils but if money isn't tight then just do the whole lot.

You would need this socket for the plugs, the normal 14mm sockets are too thick to get into the holes in the N54, just be aware that this is a 3/8 drive and most people only use 1/4 or 1/2 tools so you might need a converter:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/14mm-spark-plug-socket-w-long-extension-cta-7654

Then you just need basic tools for the rest of the job. The Z4 35i engine is really easy to get to, just 3 hex bolts and an 8mm bolt I think.

If you have no tools at all then it would be worthwhile investing in a good starter set. I started with a Teng TM095 but you can use any similar kit:
https://www.tengtools.com/r/gb/en/Socket-Sets/95-Piece-1/4inch-&-1/2inch-Drive-Tool-Set-TM095

The DIY is quite simple, the lovely TVTara has a video on YouTube for it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbtD1P1zxZI
You can skip to 1:30 as the Z4 has no cowl to remove.

I always torque my plugs in using a torque wrench to 23Nm but that's optional, most mechanics don't bother. The benefit of using a torque wrench is that you avoid the possibility of overtightening and also the idle can be smoother as you get a consistent grounding across all plugs.

 

[Starman]

Plugs and coils are consumables. I think recommended service interval for plugs is 30k anyway so they are due a change. I change mine every 15k just because they are cheap and it takes 10min.

Your misfire will go away when you go back to the stock tune just because the boost is lower but eventually it'll misfire on the stock tune as things degrade further.

Well, I put the stock firmware back on and beat the crap outta it for 30 minutes with absolutely no problems.

I have no idea if they did the plugs or coils, I bought it at 34K and I would bet they didn't. What would that run at a shop (not dealer) that can do them and if easy (how much?), you have any good resource that I can look at do DIY. Id prefer DIY to start learning the car.

Plugs are a nice DIY and really easy on the Z4. A specialist should charge 30min for the change, it's just the parts price they might sting you on.

If you are in the USA then use FCP euro, they are really the best place to get parts from.

They have an ignition system service kit available here:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-ignition-service-kit-12138647689ktx

You could just buy the plugs at $54 if you don't want to spend the extra on coils but if money isn't tight then just do the whole lot.

You would need this socket for the plugs, the normal 14mm sockets are too thick to get into the holes in the N54, just be aware that this is a 3/8 drive and most people only use 1/4 or 1/2 tools so you might need a converter:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/14mm-spark-plug-socket-w-long-extension-cta-7654

Then you just need basic tools for the rest of the job. The Z4 35i engine is really easy to get to, just 3 hex bolts and an 8mm bolt I think.

If you have no tools at all then it would be worthwhile investing in a good starter set. I started with a Teng TM095 but you can use any similar kit:
https://www.tengtools.com/r/gb/en/Socket-Sets/95-Piece-1/4inch-&-1/2inch-Drive-Tool-Set-TM095

The DIY is quite simple, the lovely TVTara has a video on YouTube for it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbtD1P1zxZI
You can skip to 1:30 as the Z4 has no cowl to remove.

I always torque my plugs in using a torque wrench to 23Nm but that's optional, most mechanics don't bother. The benefit of using a torque wrench is that you avoid the possibility of overtightening and also the idle can be smoother as you get a consistent grounding across all plugs.

I was actually pretty shocked when you said plug replacement... really surprised BMW didn't have direct inject on these things.

I should be good with tools, have a full tool chest for work on other things around the property like the 25hp diesel in my Kubota tractor and zero turn.

Thanks for all the info, Ill get started on DIY.

 

[R.E92]

I was actually pretty shocked when you said plug replacement... really surprised BMW didn't have direct inject on these things.

I should be good with tools, have a full tool chest for work on other things around the property like the 25hp diesel in my Kubota tractor and zero turn.

Thanks for all the info, Ill get started on DIY.

Direct injection still has plugs, BMW haven't got to compression ignition with petrol yet but I'm sure it'll come as the efficiency gains are huge.

 

[Marcoose]

BMW are putting little to no money in engine R&D. It’s all EV going forward. Job guarantee for me.

 

[Starman]

I purchased the plugs and coils, will arrive in a week, looks pretty simple to install. Maybe I'll try the Dinan flash again after, maybe it was a bad spark plug.

 

[Starman]

I replaced the plugs and coil and shes purring like a cat. at 8 years old and 35K miles they were clearly original (coils had a date of 2012 on them). The existing plugs looked pretty scorched.

So what do you think, should I give the Dinan flash one more try now before asking for my refund?

 

[R.E92]

I would get a refund and use MHD instead, the Dinan flash is old and you have no method of performing data logs of the engine.

Being able to record engine parameters is really useful when running an older BMW, saves all the guess work when it comes to fault finding.