Did Dinan just brick my ecu? Advice please

Starman

Member
I just got the kit for the ecu program. I followed the instruction perfectly, the app pulled my vehicle info and let me apply the ECU update. It brought up a status screen saying something like 12:34 minutes (or hours???). It then said "erasing ECU"... then error out.


I closed the app and reopened, tried to pull vehicle info and it said "locked, call Dinan". Since its 8PM, I cant today.


So I go to start the car and it spits out all kind of transmission errors and just tries to turn over with nothing starting...


Im an an IT guy of 30 years, everything was perfectly connected (internet), battery charger and odb2 connector had its proper lights, I turned of all electronics.


Any idea how bad this is?
 
Rooting for the better. I got lucky with my two flashes, but I could’ve been you. Good vibes going your way.
 
I think this is just one very good reason to get it done by a professional on a dyno.
Sure Dinan (never heard of them before) will sort it for you today, keep us all updated....
 
Nictrix said:
Did Maniac not have a problem with almost bricking his ECU?

Yes, caused by his battery going low during the mapping process, the op had a charger hooked up though?
Rob
 
In the process does it not back up the OEM one first seems a bit stupid not too..,, what if you want to remove or in this case have issues
 
Starman said:
I just got the kit for the ecu program. I followed the instruction perfectly, the app pulled my vehicle info and let me apply the ECU update. It brought up a status screen saying something like 12:34 minutes (or hours???). It then said "erasing ECU"... then error out.


I closed the app and reopened, tried to pull vehicle info and it said "locked, call Dinan". Since its 8PM, I cant today.


So I go to start the car and it spits out all kind of transmission errors and just tries to turn over with nothing starting...


Im an an IT guy of 30 years, everything was perfectly connected (internet), battery charger and odb2 connector had its proper lights, I turned of all electronics.


Any idea how bad this is?

Personally I would just send the Dinan kit back for a refund after they fix the problem they caused. Their tune is crap compared to the alternatives like MHD.

12:34 (minutes:seconds) is about right for a full DME flash on the N54 (2MB Program and Calibration) but it sounds like it failed during the initial prep where it erases the current flash memory. Most commonly caused by the DME powering down which is usually one of these 3 causes; Ignition not being active, drivers door being opened and closed after ignition is turned on or low battery voltage (very unlikely at the start of a flash).

I've done all kinds of stupid things while flashing maps to cars, I've probably flashed ECU maps to various cars I've owned nearly 1000 times now while testing and developing maps and sometimes get too complacent but I've not had to buy a new DME yet.

You're in an easily recoverable scenario so don't worry too much. If you have a DCAN cable and a laptop I can help you get WinKFP running so that you can flash back to the original factory file. Alternatively MHD has fool proof recovery procedures your kind of failure so that would be an easy route for you.

Where are you located? Might be someone nearby that can assist.
 
R.E92 said:
Starman said:
I just got the kit for the ecu program. I followed the instruction perfectly, the app pulled my vehicle info and let me apply the ECU update. It brought up a status screen saying something like 12:34 minutes (or hours???). It then said "erasing ECU"... then error out.


I closed the app and reopened, tried to pull vehicle info and it said "locked, call Dinan". Since its 8PM, I cant today.


So I go to start the car and it spits out all kind of transmission errors and just tries to turn over with nothing starting...


Im an an IT guy of 30 years, everything was perfectly connected (internet), battery charger and odb2 connector had its proper lights, I turned of all electronics.


Any idea how bad this is?

Personally I would just send the Dinan kit back for a refund after they fix the problem they caused. Their tune is crap compared to the alternatives like MHD.

12:34 (minutes:seconds) is about right for a full DME flash on the N54 (2MB Program and Calibration) but it sounds like it failed during the initial prep where it erases the current flash memory. Most commonly caused by the DME powering down which is usually one of these 3 causes; Ignition not being active, drivers door being opened and closed after ignition is turned on or low battery voltage (very unlikely at the start of a flash).

I've done all kinds of stupid things while flashing maps to cars, I've probably flashed ECU maps to various cars I've owned nearly 1000 times now while testing and developing maps and sometimes get too complacent but I've not had to buy a new DME yet.

You're in an easily recoverable scenario so don't worry too much. If you have a DCAN cable and a laptop I can help you get WinKFP running so that you can flash back to the original factory file. Alternatively MHD has fool proof recovery procedures your kind of failure so that would be an easy route for you.

Where are you located? Might be someone nearby that can assist.

Thanks! I sent you a direct PM, but Ill respond to a few items here for others to see if they may help.

Im in the Portland Oregon USA area.

Ill be calling Dinan in about 15 minutes when they open and will have more info soon.
 
Starman, Richard is equally very knowledgeable and generous. He’s been immensely helpful with me. Follow his instructions. I’m in San Francisco, but sadly, of virtually no help at all. If there’s anything from this area that could help you, please reach out.
 
Update:

I called Dinan and they unlocked the app. Their support told me that there was a 9 in 10 chance that the chip would have to be reprogrammed by BMW. They also took no responsibility, pretty much said it was my internet (even though I sure dont have any problems on my 1.2 gig connection) I tried it a second time and after 50 minutes of install holding my breath it took and finished (praying that the battery would last even with a charger on it, there was some kind of fan on in the rear of the car the entire time since the first failure, dont know what that is yet). Just drove her for an hour and she runs fine.

The only issue I have is that the check engine light is on and its telling me my battery has an issue. I charged the battery up to 100% after the flash and it still tells me there's an issue.

Really Im still not happy, as someone who has upgraded firmware on servers, routers and switch's my whole life, their software and means of distribution is a turd.
 
That’s a step in the right direction, OP. Good for you. Can you revert to stock with their app?
 
Starman said:
Update:

I called Dinan and they unlocked the app. Their support told me that there was a 9 in 10 chance that the chip would have to be reprogrammed by BMW. They also took no responsibility, pretty much said it was my internet (even though I sure dont have any problems on my 1.2 gig connection) I tried it a second time and after 50 minutes of install holding my breath it took and finished (praying that the battery would last even with a charger on it, there was some kind of fan on in the rear of the car the entire time since the first failure, dont know what that is yet). Just drove her for an hour and she runs fine.

The only issue I have is that the check engine light is on and its telling me my battery has an issue. I charged the battery up to 100% after the flash and it still tells me there's an issue.

Really Im still not happy, as someone who has upgraded firmware on servers, routers and switch's my whole life, their software and means of distribution is a turd.

So that’s a no for that supplier :thumbsdown:

Salutary experience….
 
Well, the battery message went away but the Z still has the "check engine" light on and it says there are no problems. Anyone know what that could be?
 
When I remapped a Mini the CEL was supposed to eventually go away with driving but never did. I just reset it with Carly.

If the car feels like there are no problems can you just reset the light and wait to see if it comes back?
 
mcbutler said:
I think this is just one very good reason to get it done by a professional on a dyno.
Sure Dinan (never heard of them before) will sort it for you today, keep us all updated....

You do realise cars can have their ECU's bricked by "professionals" on a dyno too? It happened recently to a friends car, car had to stay with the tuner for a few days while they attempted to source a new ECU.

As R.E92 stated MHD is the best bet.
 
sunnydays said:
mcbutler said:
I think this is just one very good reason to get it done by a professional on a dyno.
Sure Dinan (never heard of them before) will sort it for you today, keep us all updated....

You do realise cars can have their ECU's bricked by "professionals" on a dyno too? It happened recently to a friends car, car had to stay with the tuner for a few days while they attempted to source a new ECU.

As R.E92 stated MHD is the best bet.
Agree completely, although never heard of it
Difference is a pro is less likely to do it - obviously. And if they do, as with your chum, they fix it.
As for which maps are the best everyone has their own opinion.
Mine is that if its not done on a dyno then you dont actually know what you are getting...
You cannot print the result on the box as every car will be different.
When Celtic stage one mapped my 35 on their dyno it showed 18 BHP UNDER the quoted figures but 21 Lb/Ft torque more! Obviously I want torque more than BHP so I was super happy, even happier when they tweaked the map for more power (23 BHP) free on the dyno after i fitted catless downpipes..
 
mcbutler said:
sunnydays said:
mcbutler said:
I think this is just one very good reason to get it done by a professional on a dyno.
Sure Dinan (never heard of them before) will sort it for you today, keep us all updated....

You do realise cars can have their ECU's bricked by "professionals" on a dyno too? It happened recently to a friends car, car had to stay with the tuner for a few days while they attempted to source a new ECU.

As R.E92 stated MHD is the best bet.
Agree completely, although never heard of it
Difference is a pro is less likely to do it - obviously. And if they do, as with your chum, they fix it.
As for which maps are the best everyone has their own opinion.
Mine is that if its not done on a dyno then you dont actually know what you are getting...
You cannot print the result on the box as every car will be different.
When Celtic stage one mapped my 35 on their dyno it showed 18 BHP UNDER the quoted figures but 21 Lb/Ft torque more! Obviously I want torque more than BHP so I was super happy, even happier when they tweaked the map for more power (23 BHP) free on the dyno after i fitted catless downpipes..

The benefit of a tuner is that they already have proper power supplies for flashing so are less likely to have failed flash but that's where the perks end. I'm not aware of a single bricked ECU from using MHD (a failed flash isn't a "brick") and the app has been downloaded over 100,000 times on the play store for the N54 engine alone. Sometimes people have failed writes but once they plug back in or charge their battery properly it will always recover.

The tune that Celtic supply is very generic, I have a folder full of those kinds tunes and they are all virtually identical and only utilise the limited tables available at the time they were being developed. They are also further limited by the fact they use the standard factory program. MHD are the only company still actively working on modifying the logic so features like boost limiting are only something that MHD is capable of along with fixes to several torque limiters and the boost limitation at 18.6PSI.

There is very little variance in how engines react to tunes, the error that they saw on your dyno looks suspiciously like something that would result from non standard tyre circumference or from heavier non standard wheels. Dynos are a really poor way to measure engine performance, the numbers have to be corrected depending on who makes the dyno which is a bad sign in itself but then add into the equation all the correction factors that need to be applied to the operator and all the room for error in the setup regarding vehicle gearing and wheel rolling radius you have a recipe for some really useless data.
 
Geeezuz...... An object lesson in not f****g about with stuff unless you are 100% familiar, know all the wrinkles and know how to back out if it goes tits-up.
I hope you get it sorted OP
 
Dunno about that. It implies no room for learning and discovery. Advancements, improvements, betterments don't come from being in the comfort zone.
 
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