Clutch alignment tool

[Roundozo]

Hi all,

As part of the prep work for me and the wife's epic Euro trip this year I'm replacing the clutch and DMF. I'm going to rent a space at ramp it up (it's a garage where you hire a space, lift and tools) for a day to get this done. I'll also be doing mtech disks, new pads, tie rods (complete assembly), brake lines from HEL, diff oil, box oil, engine oil, filters, coolant and brake fluids.

I digress ..

My request is to see if anyone has a clutch alignment tool I could borrow for this? I'm doing the work May time so just thought id put this out there now. I'll pay postage and promise to return (obviously) but I thought I'd ask.

For anyone interested in the road trip I'll be updating that old thread soon. :driving:

 

[Roundozo]

Hi all,

Bumping this as I'm now buying the bits 'n' bobs for the job. Does anyone have one of these tools or can anyone send me a link to one I can buy? Please help!

 

[Joycey]

I see your in hampshire, which part? I have an alignment tool they are also very cheap. Laser do a universal tool.

Lee

 

[Roundozo]

Hi Lee,

I work in Southampton but live near Salisbury. Pretty happy to drive out to most places though. Where abouts are you? If you can lend me it I would be eternally grateful.

 

[Joycey]

You're more than welcome to use it, It's a very old school alignment tool i got from my dad years ago. Served me well changing bmw clutches.

Are these dual mass?

Lee

 

[Roundozo]

Hi Lee,

Thanks for the info. Saw your post on zedpost (I presume that's you). How long did it take you? I'm now not going to go to ramp it up but instead will pop to my mates house for the weekend. He's got a pit so should be enough room etc. Did you buy replacement bellhousing bolts? Don't know if they're single use or not. Presumably being aluminium they are?

I might take you up on your tool offer or I may buy one myself. I'll buy all the bits I need and see what's left of the budget. Also going to replace the propshaft guibo while I'm there.

 

[Joycey]

Might not be me, I'm quite new to this forum. Spend most my time on the Zroadster forum. I have done 3 clutches in my garage in the last couple of years. Only do it as a side hobby. Got into restoring the older Z3's for people.

Lee

 

[Roundozo]

Are these dual mass?

Yes apparently. So far the winner on cost is GSF. Although the price is high with 35% off it beats ECP and car parts for less by some way. For LUK DMF and valeo clutch (I believe both to be oem).it comes in at around 350.

So that tool you recommended, will that be sufficient? Clutches seem to have gotten a lot more complicated since I last changed one. The other factor is that I will be in the middle of nowhere so will need the correct kit from the get go.

 

[GuidoK]

You cant use a convetional clutch alignment tool for a bmw SAC clutch job.

You also cant use that laser universal alignment tool I believe. That tool is crap anyway (I have it and used it but I definately prefer a conventional style tool that aligns on the flywheel centerbearing instead of the pressure plate fingers)

 

[Roundozo]

Hi Guidok,

Do you have a link to an appropriate tool. I've looked all around the web and each and everyone I've found looks completely different.

Is this sufficient?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=131084458912&alt=web

 

[GuidoK]

Yes you need something like that. But I'm not sure that's the correct size.
There are different sizes for that tool.
I dont even know what car you have so I cant give any info on that.
In BMW TIS there is on the special tools required list a reference to what specific gearbox what specific tool must be used.

I recommend you read the bmw TIS pages on the replacement of the SAC clutch because it's very different to a normal clutch job.

 

[Roundozo]

Yes you need something like that. But I'm not sure that's the correct size.
There are different sizes for that tool.
I dont even know what car you have so I cant give any info on that.
In BMW TIS there is on the special tools required list a reference to what specific gearbox what specific tool must be used.

I recommend you read the bmw TIS pages on the replacement of the SAC clutch because it's very different to a normal clutch job.

2006 Z4 Coupe. I've got TIS so I'll have a read through.

I've bought a DMF locking tool already so that's all good. When the DMF arrives I'll see if it comes with the bearing in middle and off not buy one. Won't have a pull for that but I've seen the greese compression method so will give that a go. When the clutch arrives I'll also measure the hole and see which tool I need. Appart from that and making sure I remember to release the clutch locking bolt before I put it all back together. I think.......(famous last words).....I should be ok. Gulp! :?

 

[GuidoK]

Won't have a pull for that but I've seen the greese compression method so will give that a go.

Somehow I dont think that method will work. It is afaik a needle roller bearing in a sealed case, not a conventional ball bearing (small hole in the back but I dont know if you can build up compression)
Usually you put the flywheel under a hydraulic press or use a special puller. I think the bearing is tight.
But I think the new flywheel will have one, or if not, you have the loose flywheel and can press one in using a press.
For the removal of the SAC clutch retaining plate, you need a 14mm allen/hex key

The sac clutch retaining plate which holds the pressure plate on a specific preset position is the reason you cant use a normal clutch alignment tool (as it blocks the access to the splined center piece.
Thats why you have to use a short alignment tool with a bolt inside to center the clutch.
Then you crew down the pressure plate, remove that center retaining plate and with the bolt you pull out the short alingment tool.

If you want to remount a used SAC clutch/sac pressure plate, you need to have special tools to set the tension on the pressure plate.
But you dont need that if you have new stuff.

Be sure that the workshop has a transmission jack (preferably one with a top plate with chains to hold the gearbox) and be sure to have lots of 1/2" extensions to get the gearbox out.
Be sure to use lots of penetrating oil on the gearbox bolts. Especially the lower ones can seize up beyond belief (steel bolt in aluminium casing in full weather). Turn them loose 1/4 turn, spray with penetrating oil, tighten, turn loose 1/2 turn, spray, tighten, turn loose 3/4 turn spray, tighten etc. Lots of people completely strip the threads when loosening those bolts (the complete thread comes out with the bolt)

I dont know if you've ever had your exhaust off, but that can also be a pain for the first time.

Are you also gonna be replacing any seals? (crankshaft or input shaft seal etc)

 

[Joycey]

Ah that explains it, why I asked about the setup. He makes it sound so difficult. But I agree with the exhaust part, I got kwik fit to fit some new bolts to make it easier to remove. Right faff when you laying under it when they are stuck.

Sounds like a challenge Roundozo you'll love it.

 

[Roundozo]

Some would consider it a nightmare but in my current situation the exhaust should be relatively easy. There is currently only 1 bolt left holding the whole thing on! Even the last bolt is on its last legs. So much so that I was driving along and the support flange fell off while driving the other day. Luckily I heard it and have got it in the boot. I've got some top quality drill bits and will drill out the remnants. Do you think water in a spray bottle will be enough to keep it cool while drilling?

New clutch so don't need to worry about setting that bit up. No transmission jack but I have a plan. The pit I'll be working in has wooden planks you can put across. I'll put two across under each end of the box. Then some dollys, then another plank. This should allow me to loosen off the bellhousing while in place the slide it back and out once clear.

I have thought about input and output seals but I don't have the tools available to do those. I will be changing the box oil while its out though.

Also I thought it was aluminium bolts in a magnesium block on the N52?

 

[GuidoK]

Also I thought it was aluminium bolts in a magnesium block on the N52?

ehmmm you might be right.
the bmw ETK list both
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E85/Europe/Z4_3.0si-N52/2007/browse/manual_transmission/gearbox_mounting_parts/#pos_1

#1 and 3 are steel (zinc plated) bolts, #2 are aluminium bolts.
I dont know if this is a representative list, the ETK is sometimes wrong/incomplete/not conclusive.

With the aluminium bolts....you have to be extra careful. Even more proned to corrosion and galling in the threads!
So also use antiseize when putting the new ones in.

If your exhaustbolts have almost rusted away, thats a pointer that the other bolts have to be treated with care.

The pit with the planks might work. maybe it's a 2 man job to hold down the gearbox (it is heavy!).
I did the clutch job on my own, but with a transmission jack and I had the box strapped in a bit.

Also tilt the engine+box a bit backwards to get to the top bolts. With the gearboxmount gone, the engine has the tendancy to lean backwards (not by much force though). With the gearbox gone it probably wants to lean forewards (not sure, dont remember exactly)

I had my engine fixated with a strap around the front crankpulley and the anti rollbar, with some woodblocks inbetween.
That way it was tilting backwards, but was still fixated.
I had all the front belts/pulleys/tensioners loose for additional maintenance.



Check the bearings in your pulleys if they still run quiet or if you can hear/feel any scouring. You can either replace the pulleys, but you can also remove the ball bearing seals, and hold the inner race with some pliers while you roll the outside in some diesel fuel to the side of a can (so it rolls itself clean). After that blast the diesel out with compressed air

Put sufficient new grease in them (and a drop of oil), put the seals back on and theyre as good as new.
It's about an hours work so worthwile compared to buying new pulleys.

 

[Roundozo]

Thanks for all the pointers Guidok and Lee. I'll post some pics when I get round to the actual work. Probably in about 4 weeks time (if the exhaust holds up that long)!!

 

[Roundozo]

Hi all,

So clutch and DMF is planned for this weekend however I'm struggling to find the correct alignment tool for the clutch.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360507042263

The above looks right but at 32.5mm wide seems too large. I can't seem to find one for the zed. I have measured the diameter of the clutch plate at its about 28mm so I presume this won't fit. Can anyone send me and suggestions. I'm desperately running out of time to find this part though as it needs to be with me this weekend!!

If anyone has one I can borrow that they know fits, I would pay for postage and return and will chuck a donation into the z4 charity run.

 

[GuidoK]

When I did my clutch I made one myself by taking some e-torx socket (that fitted inside the dmf bearing) wind some tape around it so it fitted in a bigger socket (17mm or so I think) that fitted again in the clutch plate. (but it was easier because it was non-sac)
It was a little bit how ya goin but it worked... they're the little niggles you have to work around when you tinker on your car
I'm sure other people here did similar things with their clutchjob I imagine.
Getting something by post before the weekend is a challenge I think when buying something :lol: