Clear light and Angel Eye Conversion - The Project and Story

i'd keep them and finish the job tbh. it makes the car look at least 5 years younger.

200 quid is a good price indeed. i paid £150 for both headlights, but had to dremel them open just to get access to the clear indicators.

quite possibly the worst picture known to man, but here's mine done.

SAM_0549jj.jpg


i resealed them using evo-stick silicone sealant. although i noticed the o/s headlamp has a bit of misting around the clear indicator, so may need some more silicone on it.
 
Looks great ben.... for what its worth I bought 2 new rear doors from BMW and there is still misting and rain getting in, just redone one side using silicone sealant around the door and now there is no misting for the last 3 days and that is in heavy rain. Love that M bumper!
 
yg54sg said:
by mac27040 - Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:13 am

which pulse modulation codes did you turn off.
PWM_ANSTEUERUNG_BLK......

MY GUESS IS TURN IT BACK ON


My bad, it wasnt pulse modulation I touched, I believe that alters the brightness? (Did that for the rear lights) It was just the codes I stated above that I used to get the light out on the dash without using a resistor. I guess for the hassle of coding it all if not changing anything else a resistor might be easier.


I have coded mine successfully, have you checked that you haven't actually got a bulb out. I used the same codes and it worked. I did run DIS v57 and cleared all errors from memory as well.


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i think we have crossed wires :-) mine has no light on the dash, I was just giving the codes for others to use so that no resistor needed
 
Well thanks to Jembo & yg54sg i have all the parts on my work bench and I'm now ready to de-ginge my headlights. Shame the led AE didn't arrive but may get some ccfl ones in the future. The weekend and the Dremal await :)
hu8e4ada.jpg


iPhone 5 TapaTalking
 
Keep on looking out for LED rings - they are much brighter and produce a whiter light than the CCFL's
 
ranski said:
Keep on looking out for LED rings - they are much brighter and produce a whiter light than the CCFL's

i would prefer led, just as they are 4 x the price of ccfl and purchasing the clear sticks they can wait for now. like you say ill just keep my eye out for a set. :thumbsup:
 
Looking great... clears far more important than AE IMO below is the company I got mine from if that helps anyone. This was back in June last year (yes took me a bloody age to get round to fitting it all) I think he only deals with bulk orders but should be able to send you some samples. I paid 70 USD plus postage. Mine are exactly like the others I have seen people fit in this thread so I wouldn't be surprised if they are the actual manufacturer.

Hitomi Duan
Trade Commissioner
Shenzhen Vinstar photoelectricity CO.,LTD.
TEL:+86-755-27887587-8004
E-mail: [email protected]
Skype:szwanxyone
MSN:[email protected]
Website: www.wanxy.com / www.vinstarled.com /www.wanxyled.com
 
BTW - When I open mine back up I am going to try something different with the indicators. I have noticed that they are lot dimmer since fitting the window reflective film around the orange glass especially in the day time and with the AE on it doesn't help . I did experiment comparing brightness and I ordered from the exact link someone gave earlier in this thread. It seems when you project onto a wall with the lens cover off there are hot spots which create a amber beam .With the window film it no longer throws the light I would even go as far as to saying a 50% reduction in light with the window film.

my solution is I have bought 4x chrome amber 21w bulbs of ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrome-Silver-BAU15S-581-21W-Amber-Indicator-bulbs-/200765332301?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ebe8bdb4d&_uhb=1 wearing googles (as these are under pressure i believe) I dremeled through the metal 3/4 the way up from the tip these creates a nice hollow bulb which fits over the smaller bulb in the Z4. From tests the brightness is the same so whatever coating they use on these bulbs allows the light to pass through. I have only done 1 up to hopefully the other 3 will be as successful as it is very easy to crack the entire bulb since you are cutting through glass within the metal base part. Once I reopen the lights i just need to find a way of securing them instead of the orange domes. I imagine bending the metal clips is the way to do it since the new bulb 'glass cover' is smaller than the OEM covers.
 
yg54sg said:
BTW - When I open mine back up I am going to try something different with the indicators. I have noticed that they are lot dimmer since fitting the window reflective film around the orange glass especially in the day time and with the AE on it doesn't help . I did experiment comparing brightness and I ordered from the exact link someone gave earlier in this thread. It seems when you project onto a wall with the lens cover off there are hot spots which create a amber beam .With the window film it no longer throws the light I would even go as far as to saying a 50% reduction in light with the window film.

my solution is I have bought 4x chrome amber 21w bulbs of ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrome-Silver-BAU15S-581-21W-Amber-Indicator-bulbs-/200765332301?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ebe8bdb4d&_uhb=1 wearing googles (as these are under pressure i believe) I dremeled through the metal 3/4 the way up from the tip these creates a nice hollow bulb which fits over the smaller bulb in the Z4. From tests the brightness is the same so whatever coating they use on these bulbs allows the light to pass through. I have only done 1 up to hopefully the other 3 will be as successful as it is very easy to crack the entire bulb since you are cutting through glass within the metal base part. Once I reopen the lights i just need to find a way of securing them instead of the orange domes. I imagine bending the metal clips is the way to do it since the new bulb 'glass cover' is smaller than the OEM covers.


Interesting to see the evolution of an idea - really good.

I agree with wearing goggles, however I don't think halogen bulbs are under pressure. I thought they removed all air and replaced with an inert gas at low pressure, of atmospheric or less.
 
With the M bumper ready to pick up from the bodyshop, this weekend will see me fitting the CCFLs and the bumper... but a quick question;

The end of the wires from the CCFL inverter are just thin metal 'sticks' or prongs. How do you tap these into the existing sidelight wiring when replacing the sidelight with the CCFLs?
As I dont want to cut any wires, I was hoping to simply 'plug' the CCFL wiring into the existing sidelight buld connector so it can easily be reversed.

Thanks
 
Not sure you will be able to without chopping wires. Depends on the size of the pins and if they wedge in.

Where did you get your ccfl's from? Wouldn't mind seeing some pics when it's done, which I'm sure you will do anyway.


iPhone 5 TapaTalking
 
Just chop the sidelight wires and solder the angel wires to complete the circuit - use electrical tape or heat shrink wrap to finish the job
 
I thought others had managedto fit without chopping, especially as some with LEDs still have the original bulb in place right?

I bought them from eBay, came in a plain black box.

Pics will follow, when its all together :evil:
 
Not sure, but I chopped mine and still have the side light bulb active, just held in the back of the headlight unit (although you only need the side light bulb active for the LED rings
 
Re-entry underway.

One open, AE attached and working.

Time to polish the lens as its rather grubby, then seal her up, then onto number two.


Sent from my HTC One X
 
T2FFN said:
Re-entry underway.

One open, AE attached and working.

Time to polish the lens as its rather grubby, then seal her up, then onto number two.


Sent from my HTC One X

Don't forget the pics :thumbsup:


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