choosing an alignment centre...

Sidewaze Samm

Senior member
Sth. Manchester/Cheshire border
When looking for somewhere competent to carry out four-wheel alignment, what would you say is the best, and simplest, question to ask in order to determine whether they have at least basic knowledge?

I'm thinking - Can you adjust both the front and rear camber of my E85 ?
 
You could ask them what effect will increasing caster angle give?

A highly knowledgeable and competent Technician should tell you that it will improve self-centring of the steering, thus improving straight line stability. It will also increase the 'dynamic' camber when turning - which is good and give better cornering grip.

Obviously this doesn't mean you should start maxing out angle values for caster or any others, otherwise you'll find your front wheels will eat away your arch liners and bumper (since positive caster can push the wheel more forward towards the front of the car).

Also check to see if they have a full hunter/laser alignment rig - some of these have factory settings for many cars in their system, if thats what you're looking to revert to?

Hope this helps :thumbsup:
 
If it doesn't have the Hunter gear then go elsewhere.

Anywhere that has it has had people trained on using it.
 
skelters said:
If it doesn't have the Hunter gear then go elsewhere.

Anywhere that has it has had people trained on using it.

Doesn’t mean they are any good at using it properly though. I’ve been to a few Hunter places and only one was any good, the other two.....I may as well have gone to Kwik Fit.
 
AndyBeech said:
Doesn’t mean they are any good at using it properly though. I’ve been to a few Hunter places and only one was any good, the other two.....I may as well have gone to Kwik Fit.

Kwik Fit are doing Hunter alignments too these days! :rofl:
 
I go to one garage for MOT, servicing and anything else the car needs.

I go to another for the tyres and alignment check. There's also a guy in this garage that has his own bodywork place if ever I need it as it's cheaper than the garage rates.
 
Sidewaze Samm said:
Obviously this doesn't mean you should start maxing out angle values for caster
. You'll have a job, caster is non adjustable on BMW's. Z4m can be fitted with an adjustable caster plate but this won't fit a standard zed.
Look for a workshop that has hunter or John bean equipment.
Don't pay over the odds, the adjustment is straightforward, I paid £70. It pays to spray the bolts with penetrating oil for a few days beforehand, any seized bolts is going to increase the cost. Avoid places that charge per adjustment, you can end up paying over £200....you want a fixed price.
You need to do some research on what settings you want, standard or custom? Standard has too much rear camber and too much toe in both front and rear, this causes premature tyre wear and doesn't improve straight line stability at all. If you want some data for a setup which has zero tramlining/bumpsteer, extremely well balanced and stable at high speed, let me know and I'll dig the data out.
 
Davz said:
Sidewaze Samm said:
Obviously this doesn't mean you should start maxing out angle values for caster
. You'll have a job, caster is non adjustable on BMW's. Z4m can be fitted with an adjustable caster plate but this won't fit a standard zed.

You need to do some research on what settings you want, standard or custom? Standard has too much rear camber and too much toe in both front and rear, this causes premature tyre wear and doesn't improve straight line stability at all. If you want some data for a setup which has zero tramlining/bumpsteer, extremely well balanced and stable at high speed, let me know and I'll dig the data out.

I believe you can also fit Z4M lower control arm rear bushes, these would increase the caster on non M models as the bush is offset to one side. Some good coilover top mounts also allow for caster adjustment.

I'd also be interested in seeing 'ideal' data for a decent alignment set-up as it's also been on my to do list. I'd presume ride height and larger wheels, to name a few modifications, would also dictate what an ideal setup would be for a particular Z4.
 
Would also like to see an "ideal" setup! :thumbsup:

I've read before on here you're better off going for the Z4M if opting for standard settings.
 
Davz said:
If you want some data for a setup which has zero tramlining/bumpsteer, extremely well balanced and stable at high speed, let me know and I'll dig the data out.
Cheers, that would be really great if you could.
Thanks
 
Davz said:
Sidewaze Samm said:
Obviously this doesn't mean you should start maxing out angle values for caster
. If you want some data for a setup which has zero tramlining/bumpsteer, extremely well balanced and stable at high speed, let me know and I'll dig the data out.

I'd definitely be keen for this too :thumbsup:
 
Z-4-FUN said:
Davz said:
Sidewaze Samm said:
Obviously this doesn't mean you should start maxing out angle values for caster
. If you want some data for a setup which has zero tramlining/bumpsteer, extremely well balanced and stable at high speed, let me know and I'll dig the data out.

I'd definitely be keen for this too :thumbsup:

And me please
 
After researching on here I went for M settings on my non M.
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=118158

Courtesy of MrPT:thumbsup:
4F2E17A8-7EC8-4753-B4DA-BF531E7528BF.jpeg
 
A lot of people go for the E46 M3 CSL settings too but I’m not sure how they differ to the Z4M
 
I had my alignment done at Demon Tweeks,the guy who did it was very competent .The cost for mine was £77
 
Soz for such a late reply....life got in the way.
I too went for m settings but tweaked them based on my research and understanding.
Front camber I increased to 1.30 and kept rear the same at 1.50. Where I really changed was on toe-in. M and standard settings have a lot of toe-in but this will really wear the inner edge of the tyres. Having a lot of toe-in will make the zed stable at very high speeds but how often do you drive at 140mph? I went for front toe-in of - 0°.03, so total max of - 0°06. Don't go less as under braking it will result in positive toe-out which will make it unstable. Rear the same as the front.
I have found this setup very stable, tested up to 130mph (off road) I can hold the wheel with just a finger and thumb on the bumpiest of roads and steer in a straight line. NB I do have 15 + 20 mm wheel spacers on a staggered wheel set.
 
You should try 160 in an Aston V8, heading towards Fogarty esses at donington in the pouring rain!
 
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