CATASTROPHIC ELECTRIC FAILURE (FIXED)

A lot of this does not make sense TBH, I'd strongly recommend starting with the basics before you chase more obscure and expensive) options.
Fuses: The problem started when you fitted the GT roof module which interfaces with some defective functions like roof, but not others like lights (AFAIK). Even if you disconnected the battery for fitting the GT roof module it is very possible to have caused a short, all the modules are fused to avoid being goosed so I'd be spending some quality time in the fuse boxes with a fuse chart.
Battery: It's all been sald, these cars are VERY voltage sensitive, on the face of it it's static output is low, GT modules have been known to cause parasitic draw problems and kill a weak battery. Don't waste more time/effort until you have had the battery load tested or replaced, literally nothing else is worth perusing until done.
Connections: I'd re-visit every connection, earth and wire you may have disturbed to check they are sound and in the right place.
KBUS: As mentioned by others the KBUS system is interfered with when fitting a GT module, all your symptoms are consistent with a KBUS issue including the inability to find modules on the laptop. The most likely cause is a physical wiring connection issue and you wouldn't be the first to have suffered having fitted a GT, our friends at Bimmerfest have some examples. In this case BMW told the guy he needed shed load of work and it turned out to be a basic connection issue in the main KBUS harness behind the glove box.
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-799103.html

Let us know how it goes :thumbsup:
 
dwoodford1987 said:
UPDATE (not resolved...... yet)

So it’s most definitely not the battery that’s the issue.
Based on what testing, exactly?? :? Connecting a code reader to the OBD2 port won't necessarily tell you what caused the fault, only what the code reader can see currently.
PLEASE, listen to the advice of the members here regarding replacing/testing the battery first, then fuses, wiring (for shorts, earths, etc).
Your expert may be correct, but you should always eliminate the cheaper options first (and it sounds like the battery may need replacing regardless of any current faults based on the resting voltage you mentioned earlier)
Best of luck, hope it does turn out to be an easier/cheaper fix than replacing modules.
 
Below 12.3v is considered low. If your battery is reading 12.0v then its very close to not having the power to crank the engine, so certainly worth getting it checked or replaced. A 'new' battery will read 12.6v or more
 
I had parasitic drain on my battery on my old E85.
Turns out it was the Gaptech was causing the drain. Gaptech was removed by Main Dealer and no more problems. How the Main Dealer located the Gaptech, I'll never know.
 
enzed4 said:
dwoodford1987 said:
UPDATE (not resolved...... yet)

So it’s most definitely not the battery that’s the issue.
Based on what testing, exactly?? :? Connecting a code reader to the OBD2 port won't necessarily tell you what caused the fault, only what the code reader can see currently.
PLEASE, listen to the advice of the members here regarding replacing/testing the battery first, then fuses, wiring (for shorts, earths, etc).
Your expert may be correct, but you should always eliminate the cheaper options first (and it sounds like the battery may need replacing regardless of any current faults based on the resting voltage you mentioned earlier)
Best of luck, hope it does turn out to be an easier/cheaper fix than replacing modules.

So I didn’t think it could possibly be the battery as A it looks pretty new, B it doesn’t struggle to start the car even after putting the roof up and down many times the battery copes flawlessly and then this is ruled out by connecting the battery to a warranty authorisation battery tester, mainly used for brand new volvos and Kia’s but the occasional E85 now and again giving a reading of all perfect cells and 12.7V at rest.

Anyway after disconnecting the battery, removing the GM5 module, reconnecting the battery, ignition on and off lights on and off and engine on then lights, engine and battery off, GM5 reconnected I now have all lights, and remote locking again.

PDC module, roof module and Cluster next which are all conveniently positioned on the X10116 line on K-BUS


More info soon :thumbsup:
 
dwoodford1987 said:
UPDATE (not resolved...... yet)

So it’s most definitely not the battery that’s the issue.



So I didn’t think it could possibly be the battery as A it looks pretty new, B it doesn’t struggle to start the car even after putting the roof up and down many times the battery copes flawlessly and then this is ruled out by connecting the battery to a warranty authorisation battery tester, mainly used for brand new volvos and Kia’s but the occasional E85 now and again giving a reading of all perfect cells and 12.7V at rest.

Anyway after disconnecting the battery, removing the GM5 module, reconnecting the battery, ignition on and off lights on and off and engine on then lights, engine and battery off, GM5 reconnected I now have all lights, and remote locking again.

PDC module, roof module and Cluster next which are all conveniently positioned on the X10116 line on K-BUS
0F809994-2415-46DF-9CD3-0FAA349C40F9.jpeg

More info soon :thumbsup:
Thanks, your earlier post seemed to indicate the battery voltage was low, but the above changes that.
Cheers.
 
Does now sound like something upset the canbus. Instead of having to faff unplugging each module individually I would just disconnect your battery for an hour or so. That should have the same effect. All the modules should reboot at that point once you get everything up and running
 
MACK said:
Does now sound like something upset the canbus. Instead of having to faff unplugging each module individually I would just disconnect your battery for an hour or so. That should have the same effect. All the modules should reboot at that point once you get everything up and running

FIXED

The K-Bus was basically being told to tell everything else in the car that it was very VERY broken, and all from the airbag module, after unplugging the airbag module everything else is completely perfect. Unfortunately I didn’t take a picture of the actual connection but I will have to eventually get the airbag module out and sent for repair as it’s very green and corroded :-(.

Apart from that all good :-)
 
Nice work - glad you got it sorted. Goes to show, it's not always the battery (but it is often enough that it's what we suggest first) :thumbsup:
 
Actually it was canbus corruption that was mentioned first. Which airbag module was it OP (where was it located)?

EDIT: Ah, I see you updated your 1st post. That airbag module getting wet and corroding has come up before (that’s why I asked you if the roof had been left open in a downpour early on in this thread). If the car gets rained on, water collects around that module.
 
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