CATASTROPHIC ELECTRIC FAILURE (FIXED)

D

dwoodford1987

Member
 York
So I installed a gaptech+ which was working fine. I drove down the road and the gaptech stopped working when I got home but the roof would go up and down in the normal fashion. I disconnected the battery, checked the fuses just to see if everything was ok and they were all fine. After re-connecting the battery the roof will not go down just has the top red light when I press it, also no PDC and no Air Con or remote locking.

HELP
PLEASE SOMEONE ANYONE HELLLPPPPP.


***************FIXED***************

Airbag module was the culprit. Spent all last night reading how to take the rear of the centre console off and hoping like hell it was, what I was thinking it was and low and behold it most certainly was the airbag module. A simple unplug and reconnection of the battery and everything is now working.

View attachment 2
View attachment 1


Apart from the airbag of course. But who needs that when your indicators tick and the roof goes up and down :D

Obviously that is next to sort out though :-)
 
ph001 said:
Are your heater fan speeds normal and does the rear window demistor work?
Click to expand...

Fans work ok, heater works as it should.

However I also have no lights, indicators or fog lamps.

Heated seats work, wipers and screen wash work.

Just took the gaptech bit out now but still the same!!
 
Its not transport mode then. It most certainly is CANBUS corruption caused by something. I think you are going to have to put a code reader on it.
 
ph001 said:
You haven’t left the roof open in a downpour recently by any chance have you?
Click to expand...

Nope, no my been left open. Also when I try open the roof by turning the key in the door the windows drop all the way down, not just a bit but right to the bottom and that’s it.

Oh and the airbag light is on.
 
I know you must be thinking everything is broken but this is likely to be ONE item causing the corruption on the bus. All the ancillaries you mention run from the CANBUS. Since you have been playing with the roof wiring I cant help but think the problem lies in that area. Double check you have no wires shorted and they all go to the correct place.
 
ph001 said:
I know you must be thinking everything is broken but this is likely to be ONE item causing the corruption on the bus. All the ancillaries you mention run from the CANBUS. Since you have been playing with the roof wiring I cant help but think the problem lies in that area. Double check you have no wires shorted and they all go to the correct place.
Click to expand...

I shall disconnect and reconnect the battery now the gaptech+ module is out and hope like hell.

Failing that then..... well I’ll cross that bridge if and when I come to it.
 
dwoodford1987 said:
ph001 said:
I know you must be thinking everything is broken but this is likely to be ONE item causing the corruption on the bus. All the ancillaries you mention run from the CANBUS. Since you have been playing with the roof wiring I cant help but think the problem lies in that area. Double check you have no wires shorted and they all go to the correct place.
Click to expand...

I shall disconnect and reconnect the battery now the gaptech+ module is out and hope like hell.

Failing that then..... well I’ll cross that bridge if and when I come to it.
Click to expand...

Have you measured the voltage of your battery? Weak batteries can cause mysterious electrical problems on these cars :?
Rob
 
Smartbear said:
dwoodford1987 said:
ph001 said:
I know you must be thinking everything is broken but this is likely to be ONE item causing the corruption on the bus. All the ancillaries you mention run from the CANBUS. Since you have been playing with the roof wiring I cant help but think the problem lies in that area. Double check you have no wires shorted and they all go to the correct place.
Click to expand...

I shall disconnect and reconnect the battery now the gaptech+ module is out and hope like hell.

Failing that then..... well I’ll cross that bridge if and when I come to it.
Click to expand...

Have you measured the voltage of your battery? Weak batteries can cause mysterious electrical problems on these cars :?
Rob
Click to expand...

Battery is fine 12V and 14.4V when running. I have disconnected the battery and left it for a while so fingers still crossed.
 
12.6v or above at rest.
Below 12.4v Sulfation starts to occur, reducing battery performance
May not be the cause of your problem, as the timing with fitting a Gaptech seems a bit of a coincidence, but the battery needs replacing anyway
These cars seem to throw up all kinds of weird issues/lights with a duff battery
 
As everyone is saying the battery isn't in the best of health so changing that is a good first move, once you've done that id see how you go. If you want to doubly sure before changing trying testing the voltage under load (lights on) and whilst cranking. if the voltage drops of more than a minimal amount then its screwed. If your still having issues after changing it I'd be checking for a drain on the battery. Easy enough to do with a multi meter. Obviously if you replace the battery and have no issues then put the gaptech back in and it all goes haywire again the gaptech is a issue on the canbus but the batteryit seems is fubarred anyway so replace it first.

What going on with your car is classic symptoms of a battery issue on one these. Various modules start shutting down when they dont see enough voltage on these cars, hence why you loosing various functions. On mine when the battery was going I randomly lost power steering, lights, wipers, rear heater the works.
 
MACK said:
As everyone is saying the battery isn't in the best of health so changing that is a good first move, once you've done that id see how you go. If you want to doubly sure before changing trying testing the voltage under load (lights on) and whilst cranking. if the voltage drops of more than a minimal amount then its screwed. If your still having issues after changing it I'd be checking for a drain on the battery. Easy enough to do with a multi meter. Obviously if you replace the battery and have no issues then put the gaptech back in and it all goes haywire again the gaptech is a issue on the canbus but the batteryit seems is fubarred anyway so replace it first.

What going on with your car is classic symptoms of a battery issue on one these. Various modules start shutting down when they dont see enough voltage on these cars, hence why you loosing various functions. On mine when the battery was going I randomly lost power steering, lights, wipers, rear heater the works.
Click to expand...

So this morning I opened the roof manually and it started to work however the windows don’t drop a little bit like they should so as soon as you press and hold the button the roof just unlatches and moves even if the windows are fully up, but goes up and down no problems now. The indicators flash but there is no relay clicking noise and nothing shows up on the clocks and the lights still don’t work or central locking.
 
dwoodford1987 said:
MACK said:
As everyone is saying the battery isn't in the best of health so changing that is a good first move, once you've done that id see how you go. If you want to doubly sure before changing trying testing the voltage under load (lights on) and whilst cranking. if the voltage drops of more than a minimal amount then its screwed. If your still having issues after changing it I'd be checking for a drain on the battery. Easy enough to do with a multi meter. Obviously if you replace the battery and have no issues then put the gaptech back in and it all goes haywire again the gaptech is a issue on the canbus but the batteryit seems is fubarred anyway so replace it first.

What going on with your car is classic symptoms of a battery issue on one these. Various modules start shutting down when they dont see enough voltage on these cars, hence why you loosing various functions. On mine when the battery was going I randomly lost power steering, lights, wipers, rear heater the works.
Click to expand...

So this morning I opened the roof manually and it started to work however the windows don’t drop a little bit like they should so as soon as you press and hold the button the roof just unlatches and moves even if the windows are fully up, but goes up and down no problems now. The indicators flash but there is no relay clicking noise and nothing shows up on the clocks and the lights still don’t work or central locking.
Click to expand...

Have you measured the battery voltage whilst cranking the engine?
Rob
 
UPDATE (not resolved...... yet)

So it’s most definitely not the battery that’s the issue.

Back a few years ago whilst working at Ford selling Focus RS’s and Mustangs I met a wizard of car electronics AKA Mr Chris Preston of Veil Tuning. He mainly bespoke maps high end stuff like Lambo’s, Ferrari’s and other exotic cars. Now I popped round his last night and he plugged in his laptop which were only able to see 3 modules (engine, wheel angle and starter motor).

Ultimately the Gaptech module has knocked out the light module and possibly the GM5 module. The light module will explain why there are no dipped lights and nothing appearing on the clocks and the GM5 module explains the reason for the windows remote central locking and PDC not working.

Hopefully getting these refurbed will solve the issue.

BUT

Does anyone know where the light module is. I can get the GM5 out but not sure where the light module is. It might be in the same area as the GM5 hopefully, but if anyone can confirm this would be ace.

Much love all and I WILL get this sorted :-)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom