Build and install your own AUX Cable!
- Thread starter sk93
- Start date
Hi thanks for reply i check the pins,
silly question if only two pins where in would i still get audio? what does each pin represent?
RED PIN - #3
GREEN PIN - #4
BLUE PIN - #10
if that does not work i resolder with cap the other way !!
Found the best way to get the vents section of is to use two watch screwdrivers that one anyoying design !!!
silly question if only two pins where in would i still get audio? what does each pin represent?
RED PIN - #3
GREEN PIN - #4
BLUE PIN - #10
if that does not work i resolder with cap the other way !!
Found the best way to get the vents section of is to use two watch screwdrivers that one anyoying design !!!
Dr _Rod said:
Not too sure, you probably would get some audio depending on the device you're using. I think the important thing is that the devices GND's are tied together, so if you're using an iPod powered by a battery then you'd maybe find you wouldn't get any audio. However, if you're using something which is also fed off the cars GND then you'd probably find it'd work fine as the GND is shared. It'd probably also depend if the source was line-level or headphone level too.
The best bet is to make sure all three pins are connected!
The three pins are for Left Audio+, Right Audio+ and Ground/GND.
Dr _Rod said:
I think that's a good tip, smaller screwdrivers are easier to get into the notch - just be careful with them as it's easier to mark the dash if you use them for prying the vent out, something wide and thin like a butter knife/feeler gauge is good for that
Just done mine 
As is customary, tested it properly and pleased to report that Creedence sounds superb
Slight change of plan; original idea was going to be making a fully integrated moulded dock... then realised that actually, I will be using my new phone for sat-nav (when the next iPhone is released) so don't want it down there! So, simple aux lead with a male end in the ash-tray for now, then when I get new phone I'll run another cable; female in the ashtray to male out the side of the instruments. That way I can have sound from iPhone running sat-nav, or unplug in ashtray and have music from gf's iPhone while mine guides us... win
As is customary, tested it properly and pleased to report that Creedence sounds superb
Slight change of plan; original idea was going to be making a fully integrated moulded dock... then realised that actually, I will be using my new phone for sat-nav (when the next iPhone is released) so don't want it down there! So, simple aux lead with a male end in the ash-tray for now, then when I get new phone I'll run another cable; female in the ashtray to male out the side of the instruments. That way I can have sound from iPhone running sat-nav, or unplug in ashtray and have music from gf's iPhone while mine guides us... win
Tweed said:Just done mine
As is customary, tested it properly and pleased to report that Creedence sounds superb
Slight change of plan; original idea was going to be making a fully integrated moulded dock... then realised that actually, I will be using my new phone for sat-nav (when the next iPhone is released) so don't want it down there! So, simple aux lead with a male end in the ash-tray for now, then when I get new phone I'll run another cable; female in the ashtray to male out the side of the instruments. That way I can have sound from iPhone running sat-nav, or unplug in ashtray and have music from gf's iPhone while mine guides us... win
N12DVS said:Completed this afternoon.
Perfect DIY guide. No issues, so simple to follow even for a novice like me.
Thank you very much.
Neil
Glad to hear CCR was the benchmark test
And glad you both found this guide really useful!
As a bit of a sidenote, I've found that if you plug your iPhone in this way, you can actually get your calls played through the stereo..
all you need then do is plug in a mic to the iPhone and you've got a phone connectivity kit.
As this is such an easy adaptation to this writeup - and given the fact i'm going to to do it - I think it'll appear shortly as another "howto"
Ok - I've now done quite a few (well. three) for other members on here - and so far everyone's been happy with the results
So, I'll officially say I'm willing to put together a custom cable for anyone who's a member on here (with at least a few posts! :evil.
I will be charging £10, which will give you a 2m cable with a choice of either a 3.5mm jack, or 3.5mm socket (as shown in this thread).
The price covers all the parts (between £6-£7 depending on stock levels), first class postage, and about a quid fifty for my time - which I think's fair?
If you want it longer than the standard 2m, it'll cost an extra £1 per meter.
If you have bluetooth installed, then it'll be an extra £1 to accomodate that.
I can also do the install if you really need help for the price of the petrol and a cool beer
(and will, as always, provide free help via this board, or over the phone if needsbe!)
On a side note, I'm also looking at integrating the iPod/iPhone connector into the aux cable - this would allow you to connect the device via the apple connector, to the headunit to both charge the iPod/iPhone and also provide aux in.
If anyone's interested, I'll keep you informed how that goes
(I'm also building my own bluetooth handsfree kit, that costs just £30 and will be fully integrated.. getting very close, but need to buy the MFSW controls to complete the kit now)
So, I'll officially say I'm willing to put together a custom cable for anyone who's a member on here (with at least a few posts! :evil
.I will be charging £10, which will give you a 2m cable with a choice of either a 3.5mm jack, or 3.5mm socket (as shown in this thread).
The price covers all the parts (between £6-£7 depending on stock levels), first class postage, and about a quid fifty for my time - which I think's fair?
If you want it longer than the standard 2m, it'll cost an extra £1 per meter.
If you have bluetooth installed, then it'll be an extra £1 to accomodate that.
I can also do the install if you really need help for the price of the petrol and a cool beer
(and will, as always, provide free help via this board, or over the phone if needsbe!)
On a side note, I'm also looking at integrating the iPod/iPhone connector into the aux cable - this would allow you to connect the device via the apple connector, to the headunit to both charge the iPod/iPhone and also provide aux in.
If anyone's interested, I'll keep you informed how that goes
(I'm also building my own bluetooth handsfree kit, that costs just £30 and will be fully integrated.. getting very close, but need to buy the MFSW controls to complete the kit now
)sk93 said:
Very reasonable - took me a couple of hours all-told to do the cable and solder it all up neatly, definitely worthwhile.
sk93 said:On a side note, I'm also looking at integrating the iPod/iPhone connector into the aux cable - this would allow you to connect the device via the apple connector, to the headunit to both charge the iPod/iPhone and also provide aux in.
If anyone's interested, I'll keep you informed how that goes
Interesting! I still get quite a bit of noise via my cable when the phone's playing audio, so I'd be interesting to hear how your cables sound - still not entirely sure I've got mine correct. Could also be down to the charger I'm using as it only makes noise when plugged into the charger too, maybe some sort of noise issue, I'm not sure :\
sk93 said:(I'm also building my own bluetooth handsfree kit, that costs just £30 and will be fully integrated.. getting very close, but need to buy the MFSW controls to complete the kit now
Ian - if this means I can add bluetooth to my exisitng BMW Sat Nav then you have your first customer ready and waiting - already got the MFSW if you need a 'test mule'.
p.s. Off to hunt out some CCR as this seems to be a requirement for this thread!
Siftah said:
I'm also getting quite a bit of noise. Initially it worked fine but now it has issues! Last week when using the cable the audio kept dropping out as if it had a bad connection. So I plugged in the usb part of the cable to the 12v socket and the audio stopped dropping out. However between songs and where songs are quiet there is a significant level of interference. Some of it is engine noise and some of it appears to be related to the air con or fans. I have my socket located on the underside of the aircon and the cable is routed directly between there and the HU. I might try and redirect it but could it be that the cable needs some shielding?
NikB said:
Are you using Line level or Headphone level to drive the AUX-IN ?
I'm using the TomTom car kit for iPhone, which picks Line-Level audio up from the iPod connector. I prefer that as it's convenient and in theory, the audio quality should be better. I think actually it'd be better to drive from the headphones though - it's usually clearer audio when I do, it's just messy cable-wise and that annoys me
You'll certainly pick up noise from the car itself if the cables aren't that great - swapping the cable could be worth doing.
I think mine is electrical noise picked up from the alternator mostly as it seems to be in sync with the revs. I've not noticed whether it's aircon or fan related but I'll check next time I'm in the car
For the noise I get, I think maybe a better PSU for the iPhone is the solution. Running the iPhone off batteries the audio is much quieter. I don't really know how to go about improving it though, I think I need to read up a bit more on car audio and sources of noise. There'll be ways to improve the PSU by adding capacitors and with better grounding etc, but my electrical skills are a bit of a fail unfortunately
Bought the cable today from the dealers. Only problem is I've nigh-on wrecked the interior trying to get the bloody vents off. I must have spent at least half an hour on two separate occasions today (pretty much all I could take each time :/) and still no dice. In fact, I think I might have pushed the right hand retaining clip and and bent it somehow. Any suggestions (apart from sledgehammer) 
NikB said:I have one of these cables - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002ATMN22/ref=oss_product
The usb goes into a Belkin mini-usb socket charger and I use the line-level input. Don't know how I can insulate the cable from interference - tin foil?
I suspect it'll need a combination of things;
- Possibly a ferrite on the audio cable or some other re-design of the cable. The capacitors may need to be swapped for ones more suitable for line level input, perhaps?
- Better quality audio cable with better shielding
- Power feed taken from the stereo power feed (which I think may be better shielded from noise than the cigarette lighter socket)
- A better designed PSU for the iPhone/iPod with better shielding (if the above doesn't work) and/or a better ground connection
- Someone with a better clue about audio circuits to help out, cause I'm way out of my depth
playalistic said:Bought the cable today from the dealers. Only problem is I've nigh-on wrecked the interior trying to get the bloody vents off. I must have spent at least half an hour on two separate occasions today (pretty much all I could take each time :/) and still no dice. In fact, I think I might have pushed the right hand retaining clip and and bent it somehow. Any suggestions (apart from sledgehammer)
You shouldn't need to use any real force!
Shining a torch up so you can see what you're doing will definitely help - as will using a couple of screw drivers so you can do both sides at once. It's awkward at first but once you've got the knack the vents should come out quite easily...
