Broken Rear Spring

What's my best option in the situation. I'm totally skint after Christmas and I've already spent over £1100 on the car since December! Can I get a cheap but decent lowering springs? Would a broken spring even result in a plastic creaking sound?
 
I have just sent mine into BMW Shrewsbury for 1 rear spring to be replaced, other one was done less than a month ago. Costs should be covered by warranty direct, BMW have said the cost will be around £190 for replacement of the one spring :o as I have to pay and then claim the money back for it.

Still been given a nice new X1 as a courtesy car although was surprised it had a 1.6 diesel engine.
 
Nova2k7 said:
What's my best option in the situation. I'm totally skint after Christmas and I've already spent over £1100 on the car since December! Can I get a cheap but decent lowering springs? Would a broken spring even result in a plastic creaking sound?
Keep an eye out for used ones on ebay, I got my eibach springs for £85 delivered, all 4.
 
What about these? http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321249183306

Would that be too low?
 
Those FK springs are the lowest of the aftermarket springs (I think), depends on how low you want your car.
 
Sim_Simma said:
I have taken a cv joint apart and put it back together, I'm quite sure 90% or independent garages would leave the driveshaft on while fitting springs. If someone comes back from getting springs fitted with a broken cv then I'll eat my words. But I doubt that will happen.

As I've said: I've personally broken a (bmw) drive shaft with muscle power/body weight. And then again: it is the procedure according to TIS.
I'm not saying you'll break the drive shaft every time (same goes for the stabilizer links, thats the same issue), but there is a risk (especially with the stabilizer disconnected, the cv joint ballcage will get the full load of the force). And in case of the drive shafts, that is a 400gpb risk (per side). I leave it up to everyone if that's worth unbolting six bolts (per side), but it is a risk that can happen, and now everyone that has read this topic (or has read TIS) knows that and can decide his/her own actions.
BTW, I've broken that stabilizer link too (and that was by replacing a spring), luckily I had some lying around at the time (But I clearly remember I didn't have a spare driveshaft :roll: ).

But if someone complains that installing springs by a dealer or recommended shop is expensive, it's probably because they go and take that extra bit of security.
99% of the stupid and preventable accidents happen in independent garages, cutting corners ;)
 
GuidoK said:
Sim_Simma said:
I have taken a cv joint apart and put it back together, I'm quite sure 90% or independent garages would leave the driveshaft on while fitting springs. If someone comes back from getting springs fitted with a broken cv then I'll eat my words. But I doubt that will happen.

As I've said: I've personally broken a (bmw) drive shaft with muscle power/body weight. And then again: it is the procedure according to TIS.
I'm not saying you'll break the drive shaft every time (same goes for the stabilizer links, thats the same issue), but there is a risk (especially with the stabilizer disconnected, the cv joint ballcage will get the full load of the force). And in case of the drive shafts, that is a 400gpb risk (per side). I leave it up to everyone if that's worth unbolting six bolts (per side), but it is a risk that can happen, and now everyone that has read this topic (or has read TIS) knows that and can decide his/her own actions.
BTW, I've broken that stabilizer link too (and that was by replacing a spring), luckily I had some lying around at the time (But I clearly remember I didn't have a spare driveshaft :roll: ).

But if someone complains that installing springs by a dealer or recommended shop is expensive, it's probably because they go and take that extra bit of security.
99% of the stupid and preventable accidents happen in independent garages, cutting corners ;)
you must have been bouncing on it! I knowthe driveshafts are ridiculously priced (560 for the M and they want your old one in exchange!) I think it could depend on the car though if it is possible to break it. For example I changed a pair of rear springs on a zed last saturday, the o/s was really tight and I did unbolt the stabiliser link but not the driveshaft. Had to use quite a lot of force to get the new one in, yet the n/s was very easy and went in just by unbolting the shock absorber and fairly light downward pressure to allow the new spring in. I still think it would be very rare to brake a driveshaft though although if I lower the M I think I'll unbolt the shafts knowing how expensive and hard to find they are!
 
well turns out there is nothing wrong with the spring after all and my BMW indy was giving me the push over! no i have to turn back to finding out where the creaking is coming from! this means ill have to start stripping panels! fancy giving me a hand Sim_Simma?
 
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