Broken Rear Spring
- Thread starter Nova2k7
- Start date
minefields
Member
I have just sent mine into BMW Shrewsbury for 1 rear spring to be replaced, other one was done less than a month ago. Costs should be covered by warranty direct, BMW have said the cost will be around £190 for replacement of the one spring 
as I have to pay and then claim the money back for it.
Still been given a nice new X1 as a courtesy car although was surprised it had a 1.6 diesel engine.
as I have to pay and then claim the money back for it. Still been given a nice new X1 as a courtesy car although was surprised it had a 1.6 diesel engine.
Sim_Simma said:
As I've said: I've personally broken a (bmw) drive shaft with muscle power/body weight. And then again: it is the procedure according to TIS.
I'm not saying you'll break the drive shaft every time (same goes for the stabilizer links, thats the same issue), but there is a risk (especially with the stabilizer disconnected, the cv joint ballcage will get the full load of the force). And in case of the drive shafts, that is a 400gpb risk (per side). I leave it up to everyone if that's worth unbolting six bolts (per side), but it is a risk that can happen, and now everyone that has read this topic (or has read TIS) knows that and can decide his/her own actions.
BTW, I've broken that stabilizer link too (and that was by replacing a spring), luckily I had some lying around at the time (But I clearly remember I didn't have a spare driveshaft :roll: ).
But if someone complains that installing springs by a dealer or recommended shop is expensive, it's probably because they go and take that extra bit of security.
99% of the stupid and preventable accidents happen in independent garages, cutting corners
you must have been bouncing on it! I knowthe driveshafts are ridiculously priced (560 for the M and they want your old one in exchange!) I think it could depend on the car though if it is possible to break it. For example I changed a pair of rear springs on a zed last saturday, the o/s was really tight and I did unbolt the stabiliser link but not the driveshaft. Had to use quite a lot of force to get the new one in, yet the n/s was very easy and went in just by unbolting the shock absorber and fairly light downward pressure to allow the new spring in. I still think it would be very rare to brake a driveshaft though although if I lower the M I think I'll unbolt the shafts knowing how expensive and hard to find they are!GuidoK said:Sim_Simma said:
As I've said: I've personally broken a (bmw) drive shaft with muscle power/body weight. And then again: it is the procedure according to TIS.
I'm not saying you'll break the drive shaft every time (same goes for the stabilizer links, thats the same issue), but there is a risk (especially with the stabilizer disconnected, the cv joint ballcage will get the full load of the force). And in case of the drive shafts, that is a 400gpb risk (per side). I leave it up to everyone if that's worth unbolting six bolts (per side), but it is a risk that can happen, and now everyone that has read this topic (or has read TIS) knows that and can decide his/her own actions.
BTW, I've broken that stabilizer link too (and that was by replacing a spring), luckily I had some lying around at the time (But I clearly remember I didn't have a spare driveshaft :roll: ).
But if someone complains that installing springs by a dealer or recommended shop is expensive, it's probably because they go and take that extra bit of security.
99% of the stupid and preventable accidents happen in independent garages, cutting corners
well turns out there is nothing wrong with the spring after all and my BMW indy was giving me the push over! no i have to turn back to finding out where the creaking is coming from! this means ill have to start stripping panels! fancy giving me a hand Sim_Simma?