Bradz Z4MC Project thread, Back on the road!

[bmwaddict]

KW V3's arrived today!

Superb build quality! cant wait to get them on! Think I'm going to get the clubsport top mounts though.

Nice! Are the drop links KW? Did they come with the kit?

 

[john-e89]

Impressive stuff Bradz.

What made you go for the KW V3’s over, say, ACS RS kit? Was it just cost? Do you have any idea of the rear spring poundage of the KW’s? Or if not any idea if they’re softer than OEM rear springs?

Cheers.

 

[bradz]

KW V3's arrived today!

Superb build quality! cant wait to get them on! Think I'm going to get the clubsport top mounts though.

Nice! Are the drop links KW? Did they come with the kit?

They came with them.

 

[bradz]

Impressive stuff Bradz.

What made you go for the KW V3’s over, say, ACS RS kit? Was it just cost? Do you have any idea of the rear spring poundage of the KW’s? Or if not any idea if they’re softer than OEM rear springs?

Cheers.

The main reason is because I have had 4 sets previously (Fabia VRS e30 325i, e36 m3,) and I rated them highly, KW like to say they are firm without making the car horrible on the road - I cant disagree with that, I have never had a failure, They are highly regarded within the BMW/Z4 community.

Money wasn't a huge player in the choice to be honest, It was a bonus that Awesome GTI had £300 off the V3's though..

If I'm honest I have no idea what the spring rate is... I'll see if I can find it.

 

[Beedub]

i personally wouldn't bother with the CS top mounts, just run come camber shims.

Great high end coilover kit buddy, expensive but the will transform the car!

 

[TomK]

i personally wouldn't bother with the CS top mounts, just run come camber shims.

Great high end coilover kit buddy, expensive but the will transform the car!

Yeah that's the thing with the adjustable mounts... You'd want them to knock the camber back to more road friendly levels sometimes, but then you get all the NVH increase of having the solid mounts You can't win.

 

[bradz]

Where do you shim them? I didn't know it was possible. I was talking to a chap today who made the holes bigger to get the 2deg of neg! :?

I'm already running maximum neg camber on a stock top mount but I could do with another 1/2-1 degree.

 

[TomK]

This, but you can do it yourself http://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/Camber-Caster-Parts/E36-Front-Camber-Shim-Kit_2.html

 

[Beedub]

Where do you shim them? I didn't know it was possible. I was talking to a chap today who made the holes bigger to get the 2deg of neg! :?

I'm already running maximum neg camber on a stock top mount but I could do with another 1/2-1 degree.

literally as above, longer bolts and stack 3 washers, you'll get another degree and quarter easily....

i run -2.7 with the billet top mounts and a combo of the shims i do it this way, because the window in the strut top is so small that the camber plates aren't that usable without pulling the damper anyway, which is still abit of a pain considering how easy it should be with plates and the solid top end, they do however offer lots of range if you willing to do the above and you can also alter the caster too , offers GREAT feedback but the NVH is increased by quite some margin. I love the feel of it all , the sounds and the general purpose but it would drive me nuts on a car i used more.

And this firewall braces appear to transmit all the added NVH right into the cabin, it feels very race car!!!

 

[TomK]

i run -2.7 with the billet top mounts and a combo of the shims i do it this way, because the window in the strut top is so small that the camber plates aren't that usable without pulling the damper anyway, which is still abit of a pain considering how easy it should be with plates and the solid top end,

The correct solution for that problem, but it's a bit severe.

Welding-plates
We also have welding-plates which you can weld in the domes of the vehicle.
You have then to cut off the original domes and replace it by the thicker (5mm thick) welding plates. Because these plates are flat, you get more adjustment range for the camber and caster. Also, the car is a lot stronger and prevents the domes from tearing.

 

[Beedub]

i run -2.7 with the billet top mounts and a combo of the shims i do it this way, because the window in the strut top is so small that the camber plates aren't that usable without pulling the damper anyway, which is still abit of a pain considering how easy it should be with plates and the solid top end,

The correct solution for that problem, but it's a bit severe.
welding plate.jpg
Welding-plates
We also have welding-plates which you can weld in the domes of the vehicle.
You have then to cut off the original domes and replace it by the thicker (5mm thick) welding plates. Because these plates are flat, you get more adjustment range for the camber and caster. Also, the car is a lot stronger and prevents the domes from tearing.

great solution but i really didn't want to cut the chassis and weld these in... i got the camber at a happy medium for my use, the -2.5 area really work well on this car and combined with spirited driving tyre wear isn't anywhere near as bad as you'd expect. Turn in is lovely, razor sharp, with my additional widen track the old girl feel stable as hell.

i really should start to experiment abit more with the rebound and compression but i CBA. i put in KW recommended Nurburg settings and pretty much left it alone so far, the car is so well controlled....

 

[TomK]

but i really didn't want to cut the chassis and weld these in...

I didn't think you would :lol:

the -2.5 area really work well on this car and combined with spirited driving tyre wear isn't anywhere near as bad as you'd expect. Turn in is lovely, razor sharp, with my additional widen track the old girl feel stable as hell.

Agree, I have the same, it doesn't seem to kill them that badly on the road, I do a fair few miles, but then balance it perhaps with a fair few track miles. Overall, wear is acceptable to me set at 2.5.

 

[bradz]

Superb, Thanks Beedub & Tom, I'll stick with the stock top mounts for now and go down this route.

 

[bradz]

Small update...

Collected the freshly blasted and powder coated parts last night.

Superpro E46 M3 Subframe bushes fitted
Superpro RTAB Bushes fitted
Powerflex Front Diff bush
4x New Meyle Rose Bushes
2x New Lemforder Upper arm bushes.
2x New Meyle Wheel bearings.

Just waiting for the diff back from the specialist..

Now to tackle the brake lines.... :thumbsdown:

 

[bmwaddict]

Nice work Adam!

 

[bradz]

Small update.

Porsche rear calipers have come back from being refurbished.

Supersprint powerloop rear boxes arrived
H&R e46 m3 ARB delivered
Genuine bmw steel brake lines (ABS to rear flexi)

Ordered
Apex ARC-8 9.5" square setup.
Groundforce top mounts.

Diff is having a new bearing kit as under a microscope the output bearings were showing early signs of wear, surprised on a genuine 60k car.. but then again the oil has probably never been changed as bmw say it doesn't need changing

 

[Beedub]

ok...... This car is about to transform !!!!

so jealous on the power loops!!!!!!! WANT!!!

 

[Mangozac]

but then again the oil has probably never been changed as bmw say it doesn't need changing

The service list actually specifies changing Z4M transmission and diff fluids at inspection 2, so they should have been done by 60k miles...

 

[bradz]

but then again the oil has probably never been changed as bmw say it doesn't need changing

The service list actually specifies changing Z4M transmission and diff fluids at inspection 2, so they should have been done by 60k miles...

Interesting.. Maybe it was just the Si diff that was sealed for life? thanks for that, The car has FBWSH but there is no mention of it being done on its 60k inspection 2 and the oil certainly wasn't clean at 63k!

Adam

 

[bradz]

ok...... This car is about to transform !!!!

so jealous on the power loops!!!!!!! WANT!!!

Slowly does it...

Apex did me a deal on the top mounts so I decided to go down that route instead of running the shim kit. Do it once do it right!

Beedub... Cup'2s or Ns2-r's? Cup 2's are coming in at 900 and the Ns2r's are coming in at £500

Or middle ground of Ad08r?

Part of me wants the Michelin's because they are the dogs... But I don't want to destroy £900 of tyres on a track day