Boot Water Ingress - The journey of roof motors, hydro pump and seals

Hi There, thankfully after changing all the seals and eventually the water inside the frame finally stopped I had no more problems.

I also went a bit crazy and bought a new P400 X Defender (wasn’t looking but stumbled across one and loved the look and utilitarian feel. I’be had 4x4 before, including a Range Rover and always like the them. It was pretty had to find a new high spec one for sale, tried every dealership and finally one came up at the Coventry Sytner dealership.

I was going to keep the Z4 and put it into storage, maybe occasional use in the summer but eventually decided to sell it.

Absolutely loved the Z4 and I’m not sure it was the best idea to sell it really, missing it now the suns out. That said, someone else gets to enjoy it as a daily and one less thing I need to think about, but there is some regret. Hey ho…

Huge thanks to everyone in this thread, I would have lost the plot without some support.

Enjoy your Z4 ‘s and maybe I’ll end up with another, a mint Z3 wouldn’t be a miss either 🤓😅
 
Hello
I have read all the posts carefully and I have a question, if I loosen the screws at the top of the pump to freely move the roof elements - will I have to vent the pump after tightening them or do any other action to make the pump pressurized again?

As the next person I have a problem with the roof, 1 week ago the upper shell opened halfway and fell - since then the red LED has been flashing - I managed to gradually lift it to check the cables and sensors - I replaced the hall sensor in the upper shell and the upper shell is trying to break pick up but stops halfway trying to open but fails. Maybe something went wrong and is now blocking. I do not want more forceful press to panels.
Ps I replaced the transmitters on the pump with new ones, the pump does not leak anywhere and is dry - it looks like new.
 
Hello PFZ4E89
As far as I know you do not need to do anything after re tightening the screws and the system bleeds itself, the best person to answer your question regarding opening would be RobbiZ4, hopefully he will pick up on this or you could try sending him a PM (if you’ve made 3 posts or more)but to me it sounds like a micro switch or broken wire
 
OMG, what a bunch of misleading actions.

There are weakened hydraulic lines as well as wires and at least 1 broken wire in the hydraulic harness in the rear roof shell. Can't be neither seen visually nor measured on a static level with a multimeter.

A hall sensor or microswitch change in the rear roof shell in most cases is nonsense, as hardly any one gets defective.

Pushing the hydraulic rams with the full pressure on the hydraulic lines will lead to minimal bended pistons in the rams, which have to be replaced in most cases with a pair of new ones, each for about 700€.

The brass "screws" on top of the hydraulic pump are HYDRAULIC VALVES, not screws. Have to be touched very, very carefully to not destroy the expensive hydraulic pump.

What are "transmitters" on the pump? The 3 or 4 solenoids or the 2 relays?

Better to get in contact with one of the recommended garages in UK to not destroy more parts.
 
Hello
Thank you very much for the information and advice
I am from Poland and in my country the Z4 E89 is a rare car
First, I went to the BMw service center, but they said they could take the car in 4-5 weeks. I also called a local company (which repairs the convertible) and I heard the same and that BMW was calling him and asked about my BMW :). That's why I tried to fix it myself.

I loosened the valve on the pump (1.5 turns) and in fact the shells can be moved freely.
Today I found a damaged microswitch cord on the left side on shell 2. (I unplugged the CTM plug and measured the microswitch).
The roof has moved but it still does not close (it is about 2-3 cm missing - previously it stopped halfway)
I am going to check everything again, maybe one of the wires is damaged.
 
If you have replaced one of the hall sensor’s have you made sure that it is correctly located in its original position, perhaps if it’s not set correctly then it may be registering the roof closed when it is not.
 
There is only a microswitch on the left, so the diagnostic result should be correct.
 
SUCCESS !!!!!!!
It turned out that I did too tightly to fasten the cable harnesses from the microswitch. it disconnected at the final closing of the roof. I corrected it and now everything works - the roof closes and opens.

Thank you all, especially RobbiZ4 and Chippie, without your help and very good descriptions, I wouldn't have done it.

I will now be able to enjoy the convertible again

In addition, I will try to add descriptions of how to test individual sensors (hall) and microswitch without disassembling the car.

Thanks again
 
Thank you

in fact, it has been bothering me for several days.
I deal with the production of LED screens and monitors for advertising - previously I was also involved in industrial automation, so I have some basics - I also have electrical education, so I can do it here - but I know too little about hydralica - and this is how I see the heart of this mechanism. even though I devoted a lot of time to solving this problem - I do not hurt because I gained new experience, finally tomorrow I can return to my classes without worrying about my favorite convertible.
 
Znam to bolesne uczucie, dlatego od razu odpisałem wczoraj wieczorem! Nigdzie nie mogłem znaleźć tych informacji, ale teraz, kiedy mamy wszystko w jednym miejscu, pomoże to innym w przyszłości.

Polecam zakup 5 lub 6 osuszaczy Poundland, aby wchłonąć resztki wilgoci i przyspieszyć proces suszenia w ciągu tygodnia lub dwóch. Zrób to, zanim zapięjesz wszystkie elementy wykończeniowe:
View attachment 105533

A tak przy okazji, dokonałem kilku poprawek w dachu (oprócz kilku innych rzeczy) i teraz nie słychać żadnych skrzypień ani trzeszczenia. Samochód jest solidny i jazda nim to czysta przyjemność! Przeszedłem od przygnębienia do całkowitego zachwytu! Cieszę się, że koniec jest już dla Ciebie widoczny.

Nawiasem mówiąc, dwie gumowe uszczelki na podłodze bagażnika po prawej stronie (przy kratce wentylacyjnej) można zdjąć, aby ułatwić odpływ wody podczas jazdy, próbując ją wydmuchać (chociaż prawdopodobnie niewiele ci ich już zostało, więc chusteczka higieniczna wystarczy). Są bezpiecznie umieszczone nad osłoną termiczną wydechu i można je zdjąć, aby ułatwić odpływ wody – rozważałem pozostawienie ich jako środka zapobiegawczego na przyszłość, ale ostatecznie je zostawiłem. Nie ma też możliwości, aby woda dostała się tamtędy.👍
Witam. Jak wyeliminować stuki i pęknięcia dachu?
 
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