BMW Z4M Spring Detail 2021 🚗 😍

tomscott

Lifer
 Manchester
Hi All,

I spent the last 3 weeks on and off (probably 3-4 days in total) detailing the Z4M! This is a stage 2 correction and made a little vid with the pics and video I took.

[youtube]D3CpDekHX90[/youtube]

For anyone interested I these were my steps.

CLEANING

• Wheels Cleaned including faces, inner barrels and behind the spokes with Meguiars ultimate wheel cleaner
• Meguiars Snow Foam Pre-Wash applied to remove lose particles of dirt
• Two bucket with Meguiars Ultimate wash and wax PH Neutral safe wash performed
• Full decontamination of the body from Iron Fallout and Tar
• Clay decontamination process performed to remove any further hidden contaminants
• Final rinse completed and then plush towels used to dry the vehicle

Wrap removed, for 14 years the car had a carbon fibre look wrap which wasn’t to my taste and was looking its age so I removed it. I used a hair dryer to remove the wrap from the front and rear valance and the wing mirrors. Unfortunately on the rear valance over time water has got under the wrap and the paint which lifted when removed so this will need respraying, the rest came away without issue.

• Lower body, door, boot, bonnet shuts and sills were then cleaned with Meguiars ceramic detailer
• Engine bay cleaned with degreaser and dressed
• Glass and mirrors cleaned with Meguires perfect clarity glass cleaner

CORRECTION

The paint showed fairly heavy swirls and some deeper scratches and looked a little dull, common of a 15 year old car. I decided to use a two stage to see how well it would come up. The front bumper and bonnet has a lot of stone chips and road rash and with the rear valance needing respraying I will probably get all done at the same time. I was interested to see how well it would come up.

• First stage medium cutting process with Meguiars Ultimate Compound the DFC5 red pad to remove swirls, deeper scratches and defects. Each panel had 3-4 passes the paint is extremely hard, I got all the swirls out but a few deeper scratches remain.
• A panel wipe was performed to prep for polishing
• Second pass performed using Meguirars Ultimate Polish with the DFP5 pad to refine the paintwork from the cutting stage to give it the deep shine. Each panel had 2-3 passes which really did bring the paint back to life.
• A panel wipe was performed to prep for waxing
• Third pass using Meguiars Liquid Ceramic Wax Sealant with the DFF5 pad, applied to paintwork to add a layer of protection - first time using this and it went on really easily with no hazing.
• Wax was buffed off the paint with plush towels
• Meguirars Ceramic Detailer to finish off

INTERIOR DETAIL

• Hoovered the carpets and matts
• Everything but the seats cleaned with Meguires ultimate interior detailer - fabulous product can be used on everything and leaves a great satin finish
• Leather seats, steering wheel, handbrake, door cards and Leather Z arm rest cleaned with Gliptone Liquid Leather Gentle Cleaner then conditioned with Liquid Leather Conditioner to leave a satin finish and incredible leather smell

Really happy with the results! The paint was in real need of attention with a lot of swirls, some road rash and generally quite dull. There are a few panels that need respraying like the front bumper and the bonnet which still need doing but the correction has made this much less noticeable and the result is a car which is very presentable for 70k miles.

Next step is to have the panels resprayed and also have the aero skirts I acquired recently also sprayed and fitted. After the panels have been resprayed I think I will get the car PPF wrapped to protect it for piece of mind.

I did forget to dress the tyres!
 
Nice work Tom,

If you Sorn the car over winter I’d wait until just before you take it off the road to have the paintwork done, it can sit and cure properly for at least 3 months then before you have the PPF done :thumbsup:

Factory paint is baked at a much higher temperature than bodyshop paint, so is effectively ‘cured’ from new and can be PPF’d on delivery. Bodyshop paint shouldn’t be waxed, sealed or PPF’d for circa 3 months after painting.

You may be aware of this already, but though it was worth mentioning for the benefit of anyone else considering the same route :wink:
 
True-Blue said:
Nice work Tom,

If you Sorn the car over winter I’d wait until just before you take it off the road to have the paintwork done, it can sit and cure properly for at least 3 months then before you have the PPF done :thumbsup:

Factory paint is baked at a much higher temperature than bodyshop paint, so is effectively ‘cured’ from new and can be PPF’d on delivery. Bodyshop paint shouldn’t be waxed, sealed or PPF’d for circa 3 months after painting.

You may be aware of this already, but though it was worth mentioning for the benefit of anyone else considering the same route :wink:

Thanks for the insight very interesting I didn't know! Will definitely bare in mind :thumbsup:
 
Looks amazing bud! Stunning colour. You'll be well please with that result I reckon. Just a pity about the paint that came away with the wrap - but just one of those things I suppose.
 
True-Blue said:
Nice work Tom,

If you Sorn the car over winter I’d wait until just before you take it off the road to have the paintwork done, it can sit and cure properly for at least 3 months then before you have the PPF done :thumbsup:

Factory paint is baked at a much higher temperature than bodyshop paint, so is effectively ‘cured’ from new and can be PPF’d on delivery. Bodyshop paint shouldn’t be waxed, sealed or PPF’d for circa 3 months after painting.

You may be aware of this already, but though it was worth mentioning for the benefit of anyone else considering the same route :wink:

This is a great tip about paintwork and PPF... I’m going to have the bumpers on my M done soon and then PPF’d, so will definitely take this approach now I’m aware of it :)
 
motomikey said:
Looks amazing bud! Stunning colour. You'll be well please with that result I reckon. Just a pity about the paint that came away with the wrap - but just one of those things I suppose.

Really chuffed with the result and it’s not hard to do just have to do a bit of research and take your time. Going slow will inevitably lead to the job being completed faster. Rather than rushing and having to do it numerous times.

Ye it’s a shame but the wrap has been on for 14 years. Seems like the rear grill above the valance is apart of the bumper and when painted originally looks to be masked so when the wrap has been put up along side the paint and then lifted slightly over the years it’s allowed water under to fester and lifted in those areas.

The bumpers in really great condition so will have to see what the body shop says in regards to possibly doing the bottom strip of the bumper or whether the whole thing needs doing.

It’s a shame as the whole car is original paint but it’s not a garage queen and it’s been used properly thought out it’s life so wear is inevitable!
 
Great job!

Congratulations on the gorgeous roadster!

I might get myself a DA and attempt something similar when the weather picks up!

Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:
 
Your car looks great especially as it’s not a garage Queen like mine which I still detail at least twice a year even though it does less than 500 miles PA. I have recently purchased an Audi Mk 1 TT (55 plate) as a cheap run around from an old couple who parked it under a tree for over a year without cleaning it. I spent the best part of two weeks to bring the paint up to a decent standard and the roof took me 11 hours on its own, however a decent DA is worth its weight in gold. Does any one use a paint thickness gauge and if so can anyone recommend something half decent?
 
SiJar said:
Your car looks great especially as it’s not a garage Queen like mine which I still detail at least twice a year even though it does less than 500 miles PA. I have recently purchased an Audi Mk 1 TT (55 plate) as a cheap run around from an old couple who parked it under a tree for over a year without cleaning it. I spent the best part of two weeks to bring the paint up to a decent standard and the roof took me 11 hours on its own, however a decent DA is worth its weight in gold. Does any one use a paint thickness gauge and if so can anyone recommend something half decent?

Thanks! I don’t like the car sitting really and enjoy driving it but enjoy keeping it clean too. I’ve had the car about 18 months and spent quite some time getting the mechanicals sorted now looking to sort the bodywork 👍🏻
 
tomscott said:
Ye it’s a shame but the wrap has been on for 14 years. Seems like the rear grill above the valance is apart of the bumper and when painted originally looks to be masked so when the wrap has been put up along side the paint and then lifted slightly over the years it’s allowed water under to fester and lifted in those areas.

The grill is separate from the bumper, so what you are seeing suggests it might have seen some paint before, which is another reason it lifted when you pulled the wrap. At work it's normally the vans that have had repairs that lift paint when removing the wraps.
 
srhutch said:
tomscott said:
Ye it’s a shame but the wrap has been on for 14 years. Seems like the rear grill above the valance is apart of the bumper and when painted originally looks to be masked so when the wrap has been put up along side the paint and then lifted slightly over the years it’s allowed water under to fester and lifted in those areas.

The grill is separate from the bumper, so what you are seeing suggests it might have seen some paint before, which is another reason it lifted when you pulled the wrap. At work it's normally the vans that have had repairs that lift paint when removing the wraps.

Ah I see cheers for clarifying. :thumbsup:

It came off really clean and is right back the plastic but very possible. The wrap was added I think to cover some issues as every area has a bump or scrape under it. Never mind these things happen and is an excuse to tidy it up :D
 
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