bmw z4 28i m sport 2015 model cant get into the boot no battery inside

the mechanic tried everything on the terminals with his battery and boosters but there is no battery in the car cos i removed it before closing the boot so he said that is what has killed the circuit i believe if i can simply get the battery back in the car will work
 
no interior light has ever come on from the terminals apart from the hazard symbol flickered a bit on my first attempt of jumping the terminals without the battery, also when my car first died it had the battery inside and jumped from the terminals with no problem its just since i removed the battery the terminals are not working, if they should work without the battery do you think a fuse could have blown or something then?
 
i have another thing that i forgot to mention, because my roof motor got damaged from the water leak the mechanic rescue recovery man unplugged that and said i can still drive the car without it , but he seemed to not know much about how my car works is it possible the roof motor being unplugged is whats killing the circuit and stopping the terminals working?
 
Might be of some use, can see what drives the trunk motor.
boot.jpg
I wired a switch to put 12 volts on grey/green wire and put switch where the option boot opening switch would have been.
Try 12 volts on that and battery negative to say the door ring latch to earth.
This gives me the option to open boot any time with roof in any position.

Doesn't need the car battery.
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1937628&hilit=boot+switch#p1937628
 
Another thought, strip out interior trim behind the seats.
My car came without the pass through door, but when stripped the hole is there, to get into boot area.
I fitted secondhand pass through door trim.

You would have to cut through the boot side bulkhead trim carpet.
Thought i might have some pics, will keep searching.

So from realoem picture of body, you can see square hole in bulkhead to boot area.
body.jpg
 
trim.jpg

3 the interior panel to remove.
20 is the no pass through option, 21 pass through option.
You would need to cut through the square bulge on 20.
 
flybobbie said:
trim.jpg

3 the interior panel to remove.
20 is the no pass through option, 21 pass through option.
You would need to cut through the square bulge on 20.

I don’t think you can remove the inside rear bulkhead trim without access too the boot ?
 
Why oh why didn’t BMW fit a boot release button somewhere in the car or even a key lock in the boot lid somewhere like the previous Z4. This sounds like an absolute nightmare. I hope you get it sorted somehow without too much damage to your car.
 
The.Analyst said:
flybobbie said:
trim.jpg

3 the interior panel to remove.
20 is the no pass through option, 21 pass through option.
You would need to cut through the square bulge on 20.

I don’t think you can remove the inside rear bulkhead trim without access too the boot ?
Like i said, in desperation, you would have to cut through the bulkhead carpet from the cabin.. It's molded fibre.
 
Fitting the switch i have done i can open boot now if say roof fails in any position. Access to boot required to access pump screws to dump pressure to manually move roof.
 
RobbiZ4 said:
Well, having forgotten a massive water issue inside of the trunk can be forgotten, of course. :x :headbang:

Hey Robert, what you are doing there without any knowledge of the car and a mechanic, who doesn't even know anything about the car's electric/electronic system is:
HARAKIRI

Absolute no recommendation to do anything by yourselve with that huge lack of knowledge!!

Search a garage with a minimum of understanding of these full electronic cars to not loose thousands and thousands of bucks with your current "strategy".
E89 are no playgrounds for children.

robertlancaster1094 said:
Do you think a fuse could have blown or something then?
Yes, the red box next to the battery is a fuse box for higher currents. Even the terminals will be routed through it. Due to the "forgotten" watter issue this box might have been destroyed as well.

flybobbie said:
Try 12 volts on that and battery negative to say the door ring latch to earth.

This might be an option and can be tried out:

Put the negative terminal of a loaded battery onto earth, i.e. the terminal screw under the hood. But not on the terminal with the red cap!!!

Then you can connect the plus 12V from the battery with a tiny wire into the hole of pin12 of the correct(!) black 54-pole sliding plug taken off below of the junction box. It only needs half a second to get the central locking motor activated.

Making any fault with this operation will kill your car - fullstop.
are you blind or just ignorant? i stated in my original post on here that i had a water leak and explained everything and also explained why i removed the battery because the rac rescue man that was called out informed me that i would be able to remove it
 
just made an account because i read what you said about this not being a fault of the designers, which good design relies fully on technology to do something as simple as opening the boot but also not having a mechanical backup for it? many things could break that prevent the boot lock from opening electronically not just taking out the battery. It's a bad design and everyone knows it, simply blaming the people for being stuck in this position in the first place when it shouldn't be a problem is extremely stupid RobbiZ4.
 
Johnbmwz4 said:
Why oh why didn’t BMW fit a boot release button somewhere in the car or even a key lock in the boot lid somewhere like the previous Z4. This sounds like an absolute nightmare. I hope you get it sorted somehow without too much damage to your car.

thanks its absolutely ridiculous cars are too reliant on electric these days
 
robertlancaster1094 said:
RobbiZ4 said:
Well, having forgotten a massive water issue inside of the trunk can be forgotten, of course. :x :headbang:

Hey Robert, what you are doing there without any knowledge of the car and a mechanic, who doesn't even know anything about the car's electric/electronic system is:
HARAKIRI

Absolute no recommendation to do anything by yourselve with that huge lack of knowledge!!

Search a garage with a minimum of understanding of these full electronic cars to not loose thousands and thousands of bucks with your current "strategy".
E89 are no playgrounds for children.

robertlancaster1094 said:
Do you think a fuse could have blown or something then?
Yes, the red box next to the battery is a fuse box for higher currents. Even the terminals will be routed through it. Due to the "forgotten" watter issue this box might have been destroyed as well.

flybobbie said:
Try 12 volts on that and battery negative to say the door ring latch to earth.

This might be an option and can be tried out:

Put the negative terminal of a loaded battery onto earth, i.e. the terminal screw under the hood. But not on the terminal with the red cap!!!

Then you can connect the plus 12V from the battery with a tiny wire into the hole of pin12 of the correct(!) black 54-pole sliding plug taken off below of the junction box. It only needs half a second to get the central locking motor activated.

Making any fault with this operation will kill your car - fullstop.
are you blind or just ignorant? i stated in my original post on here that i had a water leak and explained everything and also explained why i removed the battery because the rac rescue man that was called out informed me that i would be able to remove it

Poor show. You only joined this forum as you had an issue with your car. Members are trying to help and give you advice and they don't need to be insulted for it.
 
Back
Top Bottom