best place for Kw V3's?

[Mos6689]

:? I do a lot of motorway miles, which is where I go above a hundred. In respect to the ARB, that’s why I’m asking how much of a difference do they make? Never had any experience.

Doing a full bush refresh all around so hopefully that tightens everything up sufficiently but time will tell.

 

[AndyBeech]

:? I do a lot of motorway miles, which is where I go above a hundred. In respect to the ARB, that’s why I’m asking how much of a difference do they make? Never had any experience.

Doing a full bush refresh all around so hopefully that tightens everything up sufficiently but time will tell.

Well my advice, do the standard stuff and then go from there. Whatever you want to achieve might be achieved by just doing that. If not you can look at other parts but on the road without increasing NVH you’ll want to keep relatively standard. ‘Tightening up’ with anything other than standard parts will almost certainly make small differences to NVH depending how sensitive you are, compliance vs stiffness is always going to be a compromise. A full refresh is a good starting point. Staying away from Poly is a good choice also if you don’t want extra NVH!

You won’t need anything special in particular bombing around on a motorway in any case, apart from a new license maybe

 

[Mos6689]

Yea had a new one 3 times already totting up when I was younger!

I’m not just spending money for motorway miles & straight line speed. I want to be able to push the car when the feeling takes & have confidence in it. Loads of great B roads down here in Surrey. Stock suspension does not give me any confidence at all. Maybe just the nature of the car but surely it can be improved on without sacrificing comfort & increasing NVH.

Maybe KW’s & a bush refresh will be enough. Car has only done 22k though so don’t know how much play the bushes are going to have. Visually there’s no cracks or splits on ones I can see without putting it on a ramp. Then again rubber does deteriorate & the car is 15 years old.

 

[AndyBeech]

Yea had a new one 3 times already totting up when I was younger!

I’m not just spending money for motorway miles & straight line speed. I want to be able to push the car when the feeling takes & have confidence in it. Loads of great B roads down here in Surrey. Stock suspension does not give me any confidence at all. Maybe just the nature of the car but surely it can be improved on without sacrificing comfort & increasing NVH.

Maybe KW’s & a bush refresh will be enough. Car has only done 22k though so don’t know how much play the bushes are going to have. Visually there’s no cracks or splits on ones I can see without putting it on a ramp. Then again rubber does deteriorate & the car is 15 years old.

Blimey…are you sure you don’t want to track days?! :lol: It’s a lot safer in that respect!

Like I say, start with what your doing and go from there. The KW’s will be an improvement regardless.

FWIW I was doing 130+ on the straight at Bedford Autodrome yesterday and had no confidence issues with the car at all. Planted in all situations even with my limited skillset at the moment! Extremely capable when set up correctly and mine isn’t *that* far away from OEM. NVH is worse than standard though.

 

[RedUn]

A bit more Imola V3 action for you - transformed my car and there is zero clunking or banging and they smooth the road out beautifully.
1B7D72EA-2FF6-415C-86EB-90868BDD78F3.jpeg

Love it! 8)

 

[RedUn]

Yea had a new one 3 times already totting up when I was younger!

I’m not just spending money for motorway miles & straight line speed. I want to be able to push the car when the feeling takes & have confidence in it. Loads of great B roads down here in Surrey. Stock suspension does not give me any confidence at all. Maybe just the nature of the car but surely it can be improved on without sacrificing comfort & increasing NVH.

Maybe KW’s & a bush refresh will be enough. Car has only done 22k though so don’t know how much play the bushes are going to have. Visually there’s no cracks or splits on ones I can see without putting it on a ramp. Then again rubber does deteriorate & the car is 15 years old.

I replaced my rtabs at similar mileage, they were like new still.

Personally I wouldn't bother with a bush refresh unless you know or have a good idea they are worn which I can't imagine at that mileage unless it's done a load of track work.

You need to realise just how bad the oem suspension is, genuinely it's blumin awful, it's not you, it's the suspension hence the lack of confidence.

KWs will fix the ride, the feel, the compliance and give you loads more confidence in the car. Personally I'd do the rtabs at the same time as it makes a genuine difference to rear end feel and it's a cheap mod. What you don't want to do is do the KWs, pay for a geo, then wish you had done the rtabs and have to it all again.

Arbs, for road use, you won't need them it, it just adds more to the mix. Again it's very personal preference. You can add them later though with minimal interference to a fast road geo.

It's tough though, everyone always has an opinion I guess that's why you ask

If your close ill take you for a spin in mine

 

[Mos6689]

Yea had a new one 3 times already totting up when I was younger!

I’m not just spending money for motorway miles & straight line speed. I want to be able to push the car when the feeling takes & have confidence in it. Loads of great B roads down here in Surrey. Stock suspension does not give me any confidence at all. Maybe just the nature of the car but surely it can be improved on without sacrificing comfort & increasing NVH.

Maybe KW’s & a bush refresh will be enough. Car has only done 22k though so don’t know how much play the bushes are going to have. Visually there’s no cracks or splits on ones I can see without putting it on a ramp. Then again rubber does deteriorate & the car is 15 years old.

I replaced my rtabs at similar mileage, they were like new still.

Personally I wouldn't bother with a bush refresh unless you know or have a good idea they are worn which I can't imagine at that mileage unless it's done a load of track work.

You need to realise just how bad the oem suspension is, genuinely it's blumin awful, it's not you, it's the suspension hence the lack of confidence.

KWs will fix the ride, the feel, the compliance and give you loads more confidence in the car. Personally I'd do the rtabs at the same time as it makes a genuine difference to rear end feel and it's a cheap mod. What you don't want to do is do the KWs, pay for a geo, then wish you had done the rtabs and have to it all again.

Arbs, for road use, you won't need them it, it just adds more to the mix. Again it's very personal preference. You can add them later though with minimal interference to a fast road geo.

It's tough though, everyone always has an opinion I guess that's why you ask

If your close ill take you for a spin in mine

Are you based in Surrey Redun?

Yea I’m learning the questions I’m asking are too vague. Everyone differs in preference & tolerance. Best bet is just changing it bit by bit until I get it handling how I want. Don’t think the brakes are something I’ll do given how much they cost but the callipers sit beautifully on Redun’s!!

In regards to bushes, I definitely need to change the front lower rear control arm bushes, as I’m getting play through the steering above 65. (Done balancing & checked geo). If they’ve worn that far then I’d guess the rest won’t be far off. Don’t think it’s been tracked I think it is just literally down to age & rubber deteriorating. Car was a collectors before me. So was garaged for 6 years. Serviced properly but only saw 2000 miles in those 6 years, so my guess is the suspension components have never been looked at because of the lack of use.

Got an 8 week wait now for the KW’s, so in the meantime I’m going to get the bush refresh done because that play is driving me nuts. If it messes with the geo, I’ll get it done at sms, as it’s only £25 an axle. Then once the KW’s are fitted I’ll get a proper 4 wheel alignment with the CSL specs, which is going to cost £100 at a specialist in Camberley.

As always thanks for the input guys, helped me decide on the KW’s & RTAB limiters, which will hopefully be worth every penny!

 

[RedUn]

Yea had a new one 3 times already totting up when I was younger!

I’m not just spending money for motorway miles & straight line speed. I want to be able to push the car when the feeling takes & have confidence in it. Loads of great B roads down here in Surrey. Stock suspension does not give me any confidence at all. Maybe just the nature of the car but surely it can be improved on without sacrificing comfort & increasing NVH.

Maybe KW’s & a bush refresh will be enough. Car has only done 22k though so don’t know how much play the bushes are going to have. Visually there’s no cracks or splits on ones I can see without putting it on a ramp. Then again rubber does deteriorate & the car is 15 years old.

I replaced my rtabs at similar mileage, they were like new still.

Personally I wouldn't bother with a bush refresh unless you know or have a good idea they are worn which I can't imagine at that mileage unless it's done a load of track work.

You need to realise just how bad the oem suspension is, genuinely it's blumin awful, it's not you, it's the suspension hence the lack of confidence.

KWs will fix the ride, the feel, the compliance and give you loads more confidence in the car. Personally I'd do the rtabs at the same time as it makes a genuine difference to rear end feel and it's a cheap mod. What you don't want to do is do the KWs, pay for a geo, then wish you had done the rtabs and have to it all again.

Arbs, for road use, you won't need them it, it just adds more to the mix. Again it's very personal preference. You can add them later though with minimal interference to a fast road geo.

It's tough though, everyone always has an opinion I guess that's why you ask

If your close ill take you for a spin in mine

Are you based in Surrey Redun?

Yea I’m learning the questions I’m asking are too vague. Everyone differs in preference & tolerance. Best bet is just changing it bit by bit until I get it handling how I want. Don’t think the brakes are something I’ll do given how much they cost but the callipers sit beautifully on Redun’s!!

In regards to bushes, I definitely need to change the front lower rear control arm bushes, as I’m getting play through the steering above 65. (Done balancing & checked geo). If they’ve worn that far then I’d guess the rest won’t be far off. Don’t think it’s been tracked I think it is just literally down to age & rubber deteriorating. Car was a collectors before me. So was garaged for 6 years. Serviced properly but only saw 2000 miles in those 6 years, so my guess is the suspension components have never been looked at because of the lack of use.

Got an 8 week wait now for the KW’s, so in the meantime I’m going to get the bush refresh done because that play is driving me nuts. If it messes with the geo, I’ll get it done at sms, as it’s only £25 an axle. Then once the KW’s are fitted I’ll get a proper 4 wheel alignment with the CSL specs, which is going to cost £100 at a specialist in Camberley.

As always thanks for the input guys, helped me decide on the KW’s & RTAB limiters, which will hopefully be worth every penny!

I'm not far off North London, so trip round the 25.

Brakes are lovely yes but not cheap, if it's a keep though my logic was to just upgrade things are the wear out man maths maybe but it's fun!

Ahh not great on the bushes, sounds sensible then, that'll help definitely! When you go for your cheap geo pull the camber pins and get some more camber on the front, it'll help for the minute until the KWs turn up!

When you go for the proper geo get the car corner weighted, it makes a big difference and you might as well get the most out of the adjustables.

I'll be quiet now and stop spending your money

 

[Mos6689]

Thread revival!

So got the KW’s through the post after about 4 weeks. Was quoted 8-10 so was a lovely surprise when they turned up.

Did a bush refresh in as many places as I could with RBM & it was definitely worth it. Installed UUC transmissions mounts with enforcer cups & Vibratechnic engine mounts & RTAB limiters at the same time. Car feels a lot tighter now than it did before.

Had the KW’s fitted last week and went for RE upside down rear mounts, as per your suggestion Redun. I’m now trying to fiddle with the setup to get it where I want it. The out of the box settings are definitely an improvement on the stock suspension & it feels slightly more comfortable & not as harsh & unforgiving on rubbish roads.

I have a question for people with KW’s that I’m struggling with. So I’m trying to adjust the ride height now because it’s rubbing slightly on the rear. Now in the installation manual there’s this page in regards to adjusting ride height (pictures below).

Where it refers to “A” the remaining thread. Is this the minimum and maximum ride height? So for example minimum adjustment range on front axle says 40mm. Does this mean measurement “A” should be 40mm at a minimum for maximum ride height?

 

[Mos6689]

I should add Julian at balance spent a while talking me through adjustments. He said not to focus on measurement “B” (centre of hub to wheel arch) as this will mean going from left to right non stop because changing one side will affect the opposite & you’ll end up with different thread measurements which will result in the handling being way off. He said the thread measurements matching are the most important thing. Most of the time it’s best to just live with the slight difference in height from left to right as it’s never more than a few mm.

This makes sense so before I go adjusting again I want to know the answer to the question above. Where is my minimum & maximum? Is it the whole thread range or is there a minimum amount of thread I should leave? The rears say minimum is 0mm. So does this mean use all the thread available? And bring the adjustable collar all the way to the top for maximum ride height?

 

[Mos6689]

Ok I have an answer. Thought I’d post it here for reference in case someone else is confused as I was. So for maximum ride height you set measurement A on the fronts to 70mm & on the rear to 20mm. There will still be remaining thread but do not exceed maximum recommended measurements. Minimum ride height is 40mm front & 0mm rear.

 

[Yeddheng]

In my opinion the factory rebound and bump settings are quite stiff, and for those who are about to drive long highway stints, I'll recommend switching to these settings:
Rebound -top knob- Front: 12, Rear: 15
Bump -bottom knob- Front: 6 , Rear: 10
It feels like driving on clouds in comparison.

The settings are the number of clicks anticlockwise starting from max clockwise/stiffest/+. There are a total of 16 clicks for rebound and 12 for bump.

 

[BTZ461]

What spec are your Apex Arc8 wheels Yeddheng? Thank you for a prompt reply.

 

[BTZ461]

What spec are your Apex Arc8 wheels Yeddheng? Thank you for a prompt reply.

Found the specs, what size spacer are you running on the front? From memory, no spacer at the rear with 10" and ET25. Fantastic pictures, thank you for sharing.

 

[Rally]

How did I miss the imola lowered on kwv3 thread

 

[RedUn]

How did I miss the imola lowered on kwv3 thread
20210731_105544.jpg

Love it! 8)

Such a good looking car once lowered they really do sit well!

 

[Yeddheng]

What spec are your Apex Arc8 wheels Yeddheng? Thank you for a prompt reply.

Found the specs, what size spacer are you running on the front? From memory, no spacer at the rear with 10" and ET25. Fantastic pictures, thank you for sharing.

Sorry for the delay but here are the specs:
Front: 18”x8,5” et38. (Tyre: 235x40)
Rear: 18”x10” et25 (Tyre: 265x35)
No spacers required but there’s room for 12mm with >-2 camber up front. No room for spacers rear.