Battery type...a bit confused...

mr wilks said:
4zwmb said:
Check this link guys, its by varta, tells you exactly what kind of battery is needed for all types of cars. After searching mine, it seems that Mr Wilks did choose his battery type correctly! ;) On the other hand it also gives a second recommended battery which is 80AH and 800CCA. So I dont really think one has to replace the battery with a new one of the exact same specifications.

https://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/battery-finder?type=pc&year=2011&make=16&model=8033&engine=31018&etn=580+901+080%7C570+901+076%7C&rec_etn=570+901+076%7C&ss_etn=580+901+080%7C570+901+076%7C&literal_search=%7B%22type%22%3A%22Passenger+Car%22%2C%22year%22%3A%222011%22%2C%22make%22%3A%22BMW%22%2C%22model%22%3A%22Z4+Roadster+%28E89%29%22%2C%22engine%22%3A%22sDrive+30+i+%28190+kW+%2F+258+PS%29%22%7D
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I was lead to believe that getting the exact same numbers was important & over capacity could be as bad as under capacity :?
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No, I dont agree fully...I am a physics teacher, I would rather believe that under capacity would be wrong but not over capacity. CCA is the ability of the battery to start the motor at zero degrees Fahrenheit whilst trying to keep a voltage of at least 7 volts. Hence over capacity is not wrong at all when it comes to CCA. Now back to AH. 80AH means the battery can take a little bit longer strain than a 70AH. See, an 80AH battery can give you 0.8AMPS for 100 hours or 8AMPS for 10 hours or say, 80amps for 1 hour technically. In reality we only get just a mere close to this because of a lot of factors like temperature, efficiency of a battery etc....So in my opinion, the only think that can happen with an 80AH instead of the 70AH, is that the alternator just wont charge the battery to say 80% as it used to do to the 70AH battery before since it wont recognize that the new one has 10AH more. So for example it will charge it to just 70% instead. Somebody prove me wrong here, I will appreciate it!!!
 
I thought a larger capacity battery would still become fully charged but it would just take longer to do it? :?
Rob
 
80ampHr battery is for cars with the servotronic option.
So i was told by BMW dealer when i asked for a retro fit to my car.
My car would have needed upgraded alternator, 80ampHr battery and the software upgrade.
A lot of £££ so i didn't bother as the original owner could have specified for servotronic for an extra £200 when new.
 
flybobbie said:
80ampHr battery is for cars with the servotronic option.
So i was told by BMW dealer when i asked for a retro fit to my car.
My car would have needed upgraded alternator, 80ampHr battery and the software upgrade.
A lot of £££ so i didn't bother as the original owner could have specified for servotronic for an extra £200 when new.
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Servotronic is the electric steering, I thought all non-m cars had that fitted anyway? :?
Rob
 
Smartbear said:
I thought a larger capacity battery would still become fully charged but it would just take longer to do it? :?
Rob
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I still believe in what you wrote here but if its true that the car keeps charging the new battery with the same voltages as with the old battery then I believe that it takes longer for the new battery to be charged and I think that yes if the drive is a long one, then the new battery will ultimately be overcharged and hence die prematurely as a lot of people have said countless times. This makes one think twice about registering the new battery. Here over Malta, nobody seems to does it but if I had the tools or if I had already bought Carly I would have done the new battery registration just for the peace of mind.
 
In my opinion nobody can really tell what a battery will do if its registered or not unless enough time has passed by, say like 4 to 5 years...
 
It is a difficult one to know who is right and you will never find out the truth as no 2 cars are used exactly the same.
 
Smartbear said:
flybobbie said:
80ampHr battery is for cars with the servotronic option.
So i was told by BMW dealer when i asked for a retro fit to my car.
My car would have needed upgraded alternator, 80ampHr battery and the software upgrade.
A lot of £££ so i didn't bother as the original owner could have specified for servotronic for an extra £200 when new.
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Servotronic is the electric steering, I thought all non-m cars had that fitted anyway? :?
Rob
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Early optional, i think standard by the LCI model.
Servotronic provides lighter steering at lower speeds, my cars heavy, mainly a software upgrade, until i found the alt. and bat. needs upping.
Also think it was standard on the 35i, probably due to extra weight of turbos, and all US cars came with it.
If you look Realoem it is listed with a expiration key for the dealer to install the software.
 
Mine is a 2011 30i msport manual and it does have servotronic...I think you are right about this flybobbie...speaking of batteries, anyone can hundred percent confirm that the battery in my photo is an AGM battery and not just a standard lead acid battery?
 
Gaffa22 said:
Take the bar off that holds the battery down.
Where mine was marked AGM it was covered by the bar.
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I think you are correct as this is exactly my battery but instead of blue stickers, it has white stickers and a bmw logo. On this battery, looks like the AGM is on the spot where it would be hidden by the bar you just mentioned. Will check the car tomorrow! Thanks!!!
 
Sorry, forget to post link! Here it is:
https://www.tayna.co.uk/Exide-096-AGM-Car-Battery-AGM700-EK700-P8007.html
 
Bmw batteries

Black is AGM

White is lead acid..

Check for markings of course as there was a cross over point, but 99% of the time the rule of thumb works

Incorrect battery registration problems usually manifest with "low battery charge" warning lights on dash or new batteries failing to charge and hold charge correctly..
 
Z4M-2006 said:
Bmw batteries

Black is AGM

White is lead acid..

Check for markings of course as there was a cross over point, but 99% of the time the rule of thumb works

Incorrect battery registration problems usually manifest with "low battery charge" warning lights on dash or new batteries failing to charge and hold charge correctly..
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I second what you wrote here especially if the battery replaced is of a higher AH. That is just my opinion of course.
 
Just to let you know guys...probably you know this already. Anyway, here it is...this morning I took off the old battery and upon doing this, I noticed that the bolt holding the battery in place can be also used to a second hole were it could be fixed when replacing a new battery. This second hole that accepts this bolt, sits a few more cm longer than the hole that the bolt was currently fixed to. This makes one think that the bmw z4 e89 accepts a longer battery, probably a longer battery will have more AH and CCA than the normally found stock of 70AH and 760 CCA. This idea of a larger battery which is still suitable, say 80AH and 800CCA makes me think twice as to the real truth about all this thread, makes me doubtful about using the exact same battery as a new one, number of AH and CCA, registration and coding etc. Again I am not sure, just thought of sharing this though.
 
You certainly don’t need to use the exact same battery as the original if you can register and code the new battery with Carly.
I am replacing the original 70ah 760cc with a 75ah 780cc which has a 5 year guarantee. It is the same physical size as the original though.
 
Gaffa22 said:
You certainly don’t need to use the exact same battery as the original if you can register and code the new battery with Carly.
I am replacing the original 70ah 760cc with a 75ah 780cc which has a 5 year guarantee. It is the same physical size as the original though.
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Can you tell me which battery are you buying? I have decided upon an exide battery since this is the only battery that I found in my country with the nearest specs.
 
And from where did you buy Carly if I may ask? Amazon wont ship to Malta and the only Carly I found on ebay which will ship to Malta is for Android only. I want it for iphone.
 
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