Basic stereo 6 speaker upgrade..update Amp added..final update, active subwoofer installed

Pbondar said:
Many people writing on this subject would disagree about bass being behind you... for example this wordy and excellent article.. https://www.thompsonsltd.co.uk/car-audio-explained.html

Today all recordings are made in stereo (save DVD movie sound tracks)... this is a front biased setup for all frequencies...in a perfect world both speakers would be point sources generating all frequencies in some form of equilateral triangle with the listener at one point..

You can place a sub woofer away from the centre as the sound travels in a non directional basis..so the human ears/brain cannot resolve that... the higher the frequency the better the chance to determine it’s a location..

When it comes to the subwoofer it’s a struggle...yes a large ported box in the boot would work...but with a full metal bulkhead between the cabin and boot the subwoofer will struggle to get through unlike the normal cardboard type separator in a saloon car between boot and cabin...

You could fabricate a ported subwoofer to rest across the rear ‘parcel’ shelf behind the seats...AFAIK I’m not aware of anyone who has successfully done that..

The existing subwoofer locations are hermetically sealed enclosures...just very small..about 5-10 litres..

Having a fully tweakable DSP with the ability to do time/phase/frequency sampling and adjusting I could get everything about perfect...great and precise soundstage, good smooth sound..but as I said the subwoofers contribute little..in fact I can switch them off and the difference in perceived playback is negligible..

The same playback on my mid range 3.1 audio / media system with a nice ported active woofer in my ‘snug’ shows that extended base can be had..just not in an E89...again AFAIK and IMHO..

Did you read the article you’ve highlighted....?? Sub bass in an Mr2 and MX5 sound brilliant behind you. Same goes for the E89. How many pro installers have you seen that ignore the rear of the car and cram everything into the front...? I haven’t seen any unless it’s been specified by the customer. A couple of years ago I sat in a 3 series from Source sounds with just an under seat sub, quality mids and tweets in the standard location up front albeit with lots of soundproofing behind them, the standard head unit running through a digital processor and an amp to suit and it sounded unbelievable....the best system I’ve ever heard. Very simple, done correctly.

I can’t understand why someone with a drop top car thinks a stereo upgrade is a waste of time, then goes ahead and does it.... :scratchhead: The Burmester in the Porsche Boxster sounds fantastic with the roof down, easily replicated in the E89 with some thought and thinking outside the box.
 
final installment..underseat sub added..technically more a parcel shelf sub as there is no real space under the seats, didn't get many pics but this was pretty easy with the vibe amp inputs and loom already in place

Firstly i purchased a Vibe Optisound 8 active subbig sub.jpg...bit of a mistake, fabulous looking bit of kit with great build quality but the thing was pretty big and not really suited to the confines of a z4 cab, it was so tall even on its shortest side it wasn't really allowing the passenger seat very far back, it was promptly returned and checking dimensions more carefully I went for the compact Pioneer TS WX130EA, discount code on ebay brought this in at just under £100 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pioneer-TS-WX130EA-Under-Seat-Space-Saving-Active-Amplified-Car-Subwoofer-160W/352729430636?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Also pick up a 3 metre set of RCA leads from the seller to connect up..4 quid, £103 total

Much more compact solution with an 8x5 speaker amp2.jpg

Next up I picked up this from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07XF4P9H2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to tap into power on the fuseboard, good buy with shielded connectors and plenty of fuses and lots of spare taps for any future projects.

I removed three plastic panels, the under glovebox 3 screw one to access the fusebox, the footwell speaker panel and the long door trim panel to run the wires through

The sub comes with 2 feeds in the back, your RCA input and power leads..simpless-l1600.jpg

First up the earth lead (black) was a liitle short so I extended that 18 inches or so using 10 amp wire and put a crimp ring terminal on it, i connected it up to the glovebox screw, which despite some reservations did actually work fine

Yellow power lead i connected up to the Amazon fuse tap with supplied connectors and put 2 10 amp fuses on the piggyback ..there are loads of empty blocks on the fusebox so I didn't need to piggyback off anything, there was a block of 3 empty slots here hidden behind the loom in the pic and i went off one of those, they were all live fusebox_LI.jpg

Blue lead for switched earth i tapped into the orange lead on the Amp loom which is the switched earth for the amp..all very straightforward.

Then just a case of running in the rca leads..originally I run straight to the RCA leads on the amp, this actually caused issues with interference that mimic the kind you would get with a bad earth..after a few back and forth with Vibe tech support it turns out there is another set of rca's (male) on the loom to bypass the amp for any such issues ..had to nip out and pick up a coupler from b and q https://www.diy.com/departments/smartwares-phono-coupler/571906_BQ.prd popped that on the loom males and run the rca into the other side and all my interference issues were solved and I had a working sub.

Then just a case of running the wires away neatly behind the plastics you have removed and putting them back together...very straightforward. Ill post up some pics later of the install position but its neat enough with just a few wires coming out of the plastic trim behind the passenger seat.

In terms of sound quality in all honesty I've not had much time to tweek and test let alone run it in but the little I did hear I was pretty happy with, the reviews are good enough and I trust it will do the job I want with the rest of the system brought up to scratch. Hopefully this weekend coming I will get to that and report back with a few more pics of install location

Total spend £372..more than I planned but thats always the way with our cars eh and frankly money well spent to completely transform an awful system :D
 
mr.tourette said:
Total spend £372..more than I planned but thats always the way with our cars eh and frankly money well spent to completely transform an awful s

I spent way more than I intended to on the actual car! :rofl: :rofl:

Good tip about getting power from the fuse box. I am hoping to stick my AudioControl LOC somewhere in the glove box area so I can pull the power from the fuse box. :thumbsup:
 
ultramega said:
mr.tourette said:
IMG_20201023_172058.jpg
IMG_20201023_172058.jpg (252.04 KiB) Viewed 1227 times
I'm about to copy you. Just wondering, how have you secured the speaker to the mount? It's not clear in the photo.
Hey buddy..honestly I'm struggling to remember now as its been a while, I think if i remember rightly this part is in 2 pieces and the speaker sits in the first piece and that piece you see in the pic sits over the top securing it..it will be very obvious when you remove it what needs done as it was a really simple install..good luck :thumbsup:
 
ultramega said:
mr.tourette said:
IMG_20201023_172058.jpg
IMG_20201023_172058.jpg (252.04 KiB) Viewed 1227 times
I'm about to copy you. Just wondering, how have you secured the speaker to the mount? It's not clear in the photo.

A few of us have made a mount out of marine ply 5/7 ply that has the shape of the old bmw speaker on the outside..a large hole in the middle to allow the cone a ckear throw and so you glue/screw the plywood to the bulkhead with the new speaker glued/screwed to the ply..

I’m away but I can put a picture later this week..adavantage is that it damps out any reasonance very nicely..
 
Here are the pics n article

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=116918&hilit=pbondar+minor+audio
 

Attachments

  • 94BA9F20-FB09-4EF0-9D61-9AB1477B1FEA.jpeg
    94BA9F20-FB09-4EF0-9D61-9AB1477B1FEA.jpeg
    123.6 KB · Views: 1,302
  • CF5FEB0C-991E-4E23-945A-BA79A66E93EA.jpeg
    CF5FEB0C-991E-4E23-945A-BA79A66E93EA.jpeg
    103.5 KB · Views: 1,302
  • 8250F296-D06A-4AAF-8CA2-B248DD52214C.jpeg
    8250F296-D06A-4AAF-8CA2-B248DD52214C.jpeg
    129.4 KB · Views: 1,302
  • 8EFB14D0-AD33-4759-997B-6FE6287251C8.jpeg
    8EFB14D0-AD33-4759-997B-6FE6287251C8.jpeg
    135.3 KB · Views: 1,302
If I remember correctly when you remove the old woofers you can separate them from the frame / mounting plate and use that as the mounting plate for the new speakers. As Mr Tourette says when you open it you will see, it's pretty straight forward.
 
Time to level up this project with a little upgrade to the door speakers with a set of Crunch component speakers going in
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20220404_142426_Bokeh.jpg
    IMG_20220404_142426_Bokeh.jpg
    128.9 KB · Views: 1,213
mr.tourette said:
Time to level up this project with a little upgrade to the door speakers with a set of Crunch component speakers going in

I don't think you will be disappointed with them. :thumbsup:
 
Silverstar said:
mr.tourette said:
Time to level up this project with a little upgrade to the door speakers with a set of Crunch component speakers going in

I don't think you will be disappointed with them. :thumbsup:
You're right buddy..another step up in quality, did the usual install of one side then a sound check and was very pleased with the difference, i have to say though I'll be happy to never remove a bmw door card ever again, such a fiddly ballache of a job..ive also changed the sub to one with a bit more power and adjustability..whole thing sounds great now
 
Has anyone with a base audio system added 8" woofers (normally present in the higher end systems) behind the seats as part of an upgrade? I am interested to know what is there when the trim is removed - hopefully a hole in the body shell that is blanked off with something removable (not planning on cutting that out!), so that it is just a matter of cutting a hole in the trim.

Any other thought or tips appreciated.
 
mlippett said:
Has anyone with a base audio system added 8" woofers (normally present in the higher end systems) behind the seats as part of an upgrade? I am interested to know what is there when the trim is removed - hopefully a hole in the body shell that is blanked off with something removable (not planning on cutting that out!), so that it is just a matter of cutting a hole in the trim.

Any other thought or tips appreciated.

I have done it, added aftermarket subs where the factory 8" subs usually sit. See my thread: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=126024
 
Finally got round to adding the Crunch door speakers using the advice here which was great.
To save me taking the door card off again I added some additional wire from the door speaker and left it behind the tweeter housing which is currently empty.
Thinking of getting these matching Crunch tweeters.
Need to find a place for the Crossover box, assuming I need it?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265690069408?epid=1337164040&hash=item3ddc5cb9a0:g:x0EAAOSwPpRifiMH&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABACewWvPTPNt%2FtWswJ%2BILimIpNDQ2D5FWZNnvEPzGtARthNWBxPey%2BZqBFhpnH2Eo9sIKU%2BPzXn%2FPz%2B%2Bv3NfT0lclvYpGkq%2Fkzvv5ZntBdEh%2FQB6AOk8Dy%2Fsea%2FD%2FeTr60VEeNdoWUZ%2FaWmZyB5QKl%2FxnqJymf2JqbwLf7pwM2pAwprtkcCJdDF%2FJxDzhLx%2BnPubnLM4cpkxpMCxdZtcDawqt7tz%2BBKOwFfRbjUDNAyTNgIgkHAKNgf4TpvVMTTlA9OVbnBiPk%2BtQdaJie24QZ3glUWUTg%2FmEaIR2QumlKugC6dK2ejOm1xBAYTio4toUzMZZsqAcRLceJ8CwgL3hI7w%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMwJT845pj
 
Yoghurt said:
Finally got round to adding the Crunch door speakers using the advice here which was great.
To save me taking the door card off again I added some additional wire from the door speaker and left it behind the tweeter housing which is currently empty.
Thinking of getting these matching Crunch tweeters.
Need to find a place for the Crossover box, assuming I need it?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265690069408?epid=1337164040&hash=item3ddc5cb9a0:g:x0EAAOSwPpRifiMH&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABACewWvPTPNt%2FtWswJ%2BILimIpNDQ2D5FWZNnvEPzGtARthNWBxPey%2BZqBFhpnH2Eo9sIKU%2BPzXn%2FPz%2B%2Bv3NfT0lclvYpGkq%2Fkzvv5ZntBdEh%2FQB6AOk8Dy%2Fsea%2FD%2FeTr60VEeNdoWUZ%2FaWmZyB5QKl%2FxnqJymf2JqbwLf7pwM2pAwprtkcCJdDF%2FJxDzhLx%2BnPubnLM4cpkxpMCxdZtcDawqt7tz%2BBKOwFfRbjUDNAyTNgIgkHAKNgf4TpvVMTTlA9OVbnBiPk%2BtQdaJie24QZ3glUWUTg%2FmEaIR2QumlKugC6dK2ejOm1xBAYTio4toUzMZZsqAcRLceJ8CwgL3hI7w%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMwJT845pj

Yes you will need the crossovers, so you would need to find space on or inside the door to fit them. But why not just change them out for the Crunch component set: https://www.crunchaudio.de/english/DSX4-2E.html

They come with very compact crossovers which you easily place on the door and doesn’t require a lot of space. If you haven’t changed the rear speakers you could then use the ones you installed in the doors in the rear instead.
 
All stereo systems should be banned from sports cars .
You are meant to have the roof down and be listening to the exhaust note :poke:
 
Dave 2 dogs said:
All stereo systems should be banned from sports cars .
You are meant to have the roof down and be listening to the exhaust note :poke:

:rofl: :rofl:

No good in a 4 pot :fuelfire: :rofl:
 
Back
Top Bottom