Alignment Preparation

enuff_zed

Lifer
Attleborough, Norfolk
Last month I replaced the rear shocks, top mounts, drop links & ARB bushes on wifey's 2.5i.
This weekend I am doing a similar exercise on the front end.
Last year the garage replaced the lower front wishbones and lollipops, but I believe only did a front wheel alignment.

So now, with it all basically renewed, I'm booking it in for a full 4-wheel alignment.
I'm hoping the work done previously on the front end will mean the adjustment points aren't too bad to move.
However, to be sure, I want to soak every adjustment point, front and rear, with penetrating oil before I go.

Could some kind soul please tell me which bits I should be aiming my spray can at?
I realise most of them will become apparent when I look, but I always like to have another informed opinion.

Cheers
 
Smartbear said:
Track rod ends on the front & the large eccentric camber bolts on the rear can give problems.
Rob
Cheers Rob. TREs were moved about 12 months ago so fingers crossed but i'll soak again anyway.
Eccentric camber bolts? Are they the inner end of the lower arm?
 
enuff_zed said:
Smartbear said:
Track rod ends on the front & the large eccentric camber bolts on the rear can give problems.
Rob
Cheers Rob. TREs were moved about 12 months ago so fingers crossed but i'll soak again anyway.
Eccentric camber bolts? Are they the inner end of the lower arm?
Ah, should have looked before I replied. Found it on Realoem, outer end of the lower wishbone, where it attaches to the trailing arm? Yes?
 
enuff_zed said:
enuff_zed said:
Smartbear said:
Track rod ends on the front & the large eccentric camber bolts on the rear can give problems.
Rob
Cheers Rob. TREs were moved about 12 months ago so fingers crossed but i'll soak again anyway.
Eccentric camber bolts? Are they the inner end of the lower arm?
Ah, should have looked before I replied. Found it on Realoem, outer end of the lower wishbone, where it attaches to the trailing arm? Yes?

It’s been years since i took my e85 for alignment but i think that’s right :?
Rob
 
The camber bolts are prone to snapping the eccentric washer lug if they are not really free to turn. On another car, I watched the "mechanic" snap mine then continue to turn the bolt whilst wondering why the readings were not changing on his monitor.
 
brillomaster said:
have you punched the pins so you can do some front camber adjustment?
Febi Bilstein top mounts don't have pins, as I discovered when they turned up.
So I'm getting a couple of triangulation measurements before I start so it goes back together approximately the same.
Just spoken to the guys at ATS which is about 400yds from my house and I've used them before so happy with their work.
Down to 2 blokes in due to the Pingdemic and one of them is on holiday next week, so I may need to make sure the car runs in a straight line for a week or so until they re-open!
 
Zulu4 said:
The camber bolts are prone to snapping the eccentric washer lug if they are not really free to turn. On another car, I watched the "mechanic" snap mine then continue to turn the bolt whilst wondering why the readings were not changing on his monitor.
Thanks, I'll keep an eye on that then.
I assume if that's the case you have to replace just the washer and go back?
 
enuff_zed said:
brillomaster said:
have you punched the pins so you can do some front camber adjustment?
Febi Bilstein top mounts don't have pins, as I discovered when they turned up.
So I'm getting a couple of triangulation measurements before I start so it goes back together approximately the same.
Just spoken to the guys at ATS which is about 400yds from my house and I've used them before so happy with their work.
Down to 2 blokes in due to the Pingdemic and one of them is on holiday next week, so I may need to make sure the car runs in a straight line for a week or so until they re-open!

the top mounts must mount to the chassis via the three bolts though, so by using those slotted holes there would be a little adjustment? not much, but likely enough to make sure both sides are even.
 
brillomaster said:
enuff_zed said:
brillomaster said:
have you punched the pins so you can do some front camber adjustment?
Febi Bilstein top mounts don't have pins, as I discovered when they turned up.
So I'm getting a couple of triangulation measurements before I start so it goes back together approximately the same.
Just spoken to the guys at ATS which is about 400yds from my house and I've used them before so happy with their work.
Down to 2 blokes in due to the Pingdemic and one of them is on holiday next week, so I may need to make sure the car runs in a straight line for a week or so until they re-open!

the top mounts must mount to the chassis via the three bolts though, so by using those slotted holes there would be a little adjustment? not much, but likely enough to make sure both sides are even.
Oh yes, otherwise taking out the camber pins would be pointless I guess.
I was thinking that as there is going to be some room for adjustment, then I need to get them back more or less in the same place initially.
Or should I push them fully inwards as others have suggested? Bearing in mind it's a 2.5i auto which the wife cruises in, not a track-day, back-road racer. :roll:
 
enuff_zed said:
Zulu4 said:
The camber bolts are prone to snapping the eccentric washer lug if they are not really free to turn. On another car, I watched the "mechanic" snap mine then continue to turn the bolt whilst wondering why the readings were not changing on his monitor.
Thanks, I'll keep an eye on that then.
I assume if that's the case you have to replace just the washer and go back?

If the eccentric bolt designs are the same across different manufacturers (which I assume they are), if the washer is snapped free of the bolt then a whole new bolt & washer is required. Ideally, the mechanic should raise the rear wheel off the ramp to release any tension on the suspension, then adjust the bolt, then lower the wheel back down for a reading.....but that's not going to happen as it would take time - and time is money. :(
 
Zulu4 said:
enuff_zed said:
Zulu4 said:
The camber bolts are prone to snapping the eccentric washer lug if they are not really free to turn. On another car, I watched the "mechanic" snap mine then continue to turn the bolt whilst wondering why the readings were not changing on his monitor.
Thanks, I'll keep an eye on that then.
I assume if that's the case you have to replace just the washer and go back?

If the eccentric bolt designs are the same across different manufacturers (which I assume they are), then if the washer is snapped free of the bolt then a whole new bolt & washer is required. Ideally, the mechanic should raise the rear wheel off the ramp to release any tension on the suspension, then adjust the bolt, then lower the wheel back down for a reading.....but that's not going to happen as it would take time - and time is money. :(
OK thanks. I'll speak to them about it................and buy a second can of spray :rofl:
 
there isnt that much adjustment, not enough for serious track work even if you wanted to. Just ask your wheel alignment guy to use that limited bit of adjustment to make sure that both sides are equal to each other. :thumbsup:
 
brillomaster said:
there isnt that much adjustment, not enough for serious track work even if you wanted to. Just ask your wheel alignment guy to use that limited bit of adjustment to make sure that both sides are equal to each other. :thumbsup:
Thanks for the advice.
I come from the old Ford school of live axles and leaf springs. Anything more than a bit of toe-in and I'm lost. :D
 
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