A NEW headlight washer problem

Darkangelv2

Senior member
Southampton
And a self-inflicted one at that! :Thumbsup:

Having installed an M bumper recently that had the cut outs for headlight washers, I decided to proactively add the functionality to my car so as to, hopefully, pass MOTs with my aftermarket HIDs intact.

IMG_9880.jpg

I took the car for a pre-emptive MOT last week and sure enough it only failed on the headlight washers (present, therefore must work). He commented that with Xenons, the washers need to work.

So, the install I have done is with the correct reservoir, pump and pipe work. I’ve spliced into the wiring for the windscreen washer pump so that both activate at the same time.

However, when I operate both at the same time, the pumps fire up and then lose pressure – then cut out. (Pressure drops within about 1.5 seconds then the pumps cease after about 5 seconds). The windscreen gets the most water and headlights may or may not get any randomly!

Tests I’ve tried:

- Headlight washers on their own. OK
- Windscreen washers on their own. OK
- Together with Reservoir open. FAIL.
- Together with reservoir closed. FAIL.

The only thing unusual about my setup is the lack of the correct relay and the lack of an independent power supply. Please correct me if I’m wrong, but I can’t imagine a shared power supply would be supplying inadequate power? Devices draw what they need to draw as I understand it (or it would blow the wiring or fuse).

Therefore, I’m left to wonder whether the relay does some clever pulsing that prevents some pressure issue OR one of my pumps is actually working below strength – though I’m not sure why the latter would cause problems when they work independently.

I’m so, so stumped.

I obviously have the fall back of returning all to normal to pass MOT each year, but that’s far from ideal and a bloody big disappointment!

Has anyone else done this conversion and can confirm it works or resolved similar issues?
 
So, an electrician friend has suggested to apply a direct live feed to the headlights pump whilst running the windscreen washers.

He said the current may drop as the resistance rises so a clean feed would test if it’s an electrical issue vs a pump issue.

If it is electrical, I will go down the route of properly retro fitting the correct separate power and relay.

With that in mind, does anyone know how to get product numbers of the components of a retrofit kit?

The overall kit number is 61670149016. I just need the relay/wiring harness from that kit but can’t find a code for this anywhere...

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BU32-EUR-06-2006-E85-BMW-Z4_25si&diagId=03_2524
 
Darkangelv2 said:
So, an electrician friend has suggested to apply a direct live feed to the headlights pump whilst running the windscreen washers.

..not sure I'm following this. AFAIK there is no headlights pump - it's all just pressure fed from the windscreen washer pump.
 
ph001 said:
Darkangelv2 said:
So, an electrician friend has suggested to apply a direct live feed to the headlights pump whilst running the windscreen washers.

..not sure I'm following this. AFAIK there is no headlights pump - it's all just pressure fed from the windscreen washer pump.

No, there is a separate pump to operate the headlight washer jets otherwise they would operate every time you wash the screen. The pump for the headlights is mounted at the front of the washer reservoir.

Chris
 
OP - it must be an electrical issue as the two pumps take fluid independently from the tank, and work correctly when you power them individually.
 
rally-chris said:
ph001 said:
Darkangelv2 said:
So, an electrician friend has suggested to apply a direct live feed to the headlights pump whilst running the windscreen washers.

..not sure I'm following this. AFAIK there is no headlights pump - it's all just pressure fed from the windscreen washer pump.

No, there is a separate pump to operate the headlight washer jets otherwise they would operate every time you wash the screen. The pump for the headlights is mounted at the front of the washer reservoir.

Chris

Yes, a second pump at the front of the new reservoir.

I've just been to my BMW dealership and he can't get the break down of the retrofit kit as they no longer hold it (it's a discontinued kit). SO, now i'm just scouring the internet to see if ANYONE created a breakdown.

I just need the relay and harness!
 
rally-chris said:
OP - it must be an electrical issue as the two pumps take fluid independently from the tank, and work correctly when you power them individually.

I'm inclined to agree. Resolving it is now the 'fun' part....
 
I would have thought that you could rig up pretty much any aftermarket 12v relay to do the job assuming you can find a high enough power +12v feed to switch using the relay. Just make sure that your new 12v feed is fused independently for the pump, close to the source of your new wire.

i.e. something like this would do for the relay:

4928b113-fc5c-4967-befb-1023a809d5de.jpg


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Auto...664374&hash=item3d181adacf:g:P84AAOSwXXxZVgha

Chris
 
The 'switch' wire for the relay you would piggy back off the existing screen washer pump +12v feed....
 
rally-chris said:
I would have thought that you could rig up pretty much any aftermarket 12v relay to do the job assuming you can find a high enough power +12v feed to switch using the relay. Just make sure that your new 12v feed is fused independently for the pump, close to the source of your new wire.

i.e. something like this would do for the relay:


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Auto...664374&hash=item3d181adacf:g:P84AAOSwXXxZVgha

Chris

I like your thinking - this could save a LOT of phaff!

I have just found the breakdown at last:

http://2009.bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/61670149016/

Getting hold of the right bits would be nigh impossible anyway!
 
rally-chris said:
The 'switch' wire for the relay you would piggy back off the existing screen washer pump +12v feed....

Understood - makes it very simple to undo/redo at MOT time too.
 
Anyone know of anything worth tapping into in here?

It’s the box of connections in the top right of the engine bay as you look at it from the front of the car.

Either live or switched live?

C8532A89-01E1-4228-9EDB-514706A1A207.jpeg
 
I’m not sure what you’ll find inside that box in the engine bay, except to say that all of the red wires are likely to be directly connected to the battery +12v supply (i.e. permanent live), and the brown wires are earths. What you really want is an ignition switched +12v feed.

I’d usually start from the fuse box and then use a ‘fuse tap’ to run a new fused wire from an existing fuse location after identifying it as ignition switched using a multimeter. If you can access any of the connector pins in that under bonnet connection box then you might be able to identify a non red or brown wire as ignition switched using a meter.

Chris
 
Is the proper relay not available separately? Make up your own loom using the wiring diagrams and then code the car?
 
From the look of the wiring diags (for N52 3.0si) it's just two wires to the pump from the relay. I'm going to assume the SRA feed is already there and the loom to the pump isn't.
1 relay and a feed to the pump, connector and coding should be all it needs.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e85-z4-3.0si-roa/wiring-functional-info/body/wash-wipe-functions/headlight-cleaning-system/mNk220N
 
Thanks both - i'm going to do a temporary job for MOT running an inline fuse. Then probably go down the route Scooba_Steve has suggested.

The relay is still available easily and cheaply and i will have to spend some time working out the wiring harness. I have the guide here for installation https://bmweba.com/eba-01-31-0-301-545/

I might be back here asking for help on interpreting wiring diagrams!
 
So you just need to check the wiring connectors at X11002 and X11003 and confirm the pins are present. I assume X11003 will be but X11002 probably won't.

The connectors/spades should be available individually from BMW - RS components also stock Tyco stuff but are a lot harder to match up part numbers, though are cheaper.
 
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