30i v 28i

[Smartbear]

So is the Business speaker set up (676) a big improvement over the standard system? If so, would I be correct in assuming the Pro system (677) is better again without being anything like as noticeable as the jump from base kit to the Business kit.

yes yes

I think the echo & reverb needs adjusting
Rob

 

[Anonymous]

So is the Business speaker set up (676) a big improvement over the standard system? If so, would I be correct in assuming the Pro system (677) is better again without being anything like as noticeable as the jump from base kit to the Business kit.

yes yes

I think the echo & reverb needs adjusting
Rob

no no

 

[enuff_zed]

yes yes

I think the echo & reverb needs adjusting
Rob

no no

Now it's turning into an episode of The Vicar of Dibley!

 

[Big Bad Boris]

Thanks,Thanks....

Thanks to the great feedback and debate in this thread so far, I am well armed in searching for the key spec items etc. So next step, let’s say I find a car with the right spec and I am keen to explore further.

Given I can’t go and look at it or drive it at this time, and assuming mileage of 40k-55k what questions should I ask the dealer to test the water? Obviously service history is the first port of call (who, where, when) I also ask if the history is just stamps in the book, or is it backed up with supporting paperwork etc.

Also how many is owners is useful to know. What else can I usefully find out remotely, should I ask if certain things have been done / replaced during the given services. Any differences in the questions for the 28i / 30i given their slightly different mechanicals?

 

[enuff_zed]

Thanks,Thanks....

Thanks to the great feedback and debate in this thread so far, I am well armed in searching for the key spec items etc. So next step, let’s say I find a car with the right spec and I am keen to explore further.

Given I can’t go and look at it or drive it at this time, and assuming mileage of 40k-55k what questions should I ask the dealer to test the water? Obviously service history is the first port of call (who, where, when) I also ask if the history is just stamps in the book, or is it backed up with supporting paperwork etc.

Also how many is owners is useful to know. What else can I usefully find out remotely, should I ask if certain things have been done / replaced during the given services. Any differences in the questions for the 28i / 30i given their slightly different mechanicals?

Whilst it's probably unlikely, I would also suggest flagging the car up on here. Just in case a forum member has previously owned it, or knows of it.

 

[Big Bad Boris]

I did think of that option, although there is the downside of spending hours trawling through cars, spec, googling reg numbers, VIN’s and looking through BMW options lists.....only to flag up to a large group of enthusiasts, including those that might not be actively looking that you’ve found what you think is a great car for sale, thus risking guzumping yourself.

 

[MACK]

To be honest the professional 677 in mine is pretty good and probably worth seeking out if you like your music. Obviously it depends on what your used to and I'm no Audiophile. I tend to spend half my car life with Talk Sport on (but not at the moment obviously!) But all things considered for a noisey two seater sports car environment its not too bad.

 

[Deepseaskateboard]

I did think of that option, although there is the downside of spending hours trawling through cars, spec, googling reg numbers, VIN’s and looking through BMW options lists.....only to flag up to a large group of enthusiasts, including those that might not be actively looking that you’ve found what you think is a great car for sale, thus risking guzumping yourself.

You can always put a deposit on the car prior.

 

[Big Bad Boris]

I had thought of that too. However, we are heading off on a slight tangent, imagine that on a car forum

I’d like to draw it back to my original question if I may, which was......

Thanks to the great feedback and debate in this thread so far, I am well armed in searching for the key spec items etc. So next step, let’s say I find a car with the right spec and I am keen to explore further.

Given I can’t go and look at it or drive it at this time, and assuming mileage of 40k-55k what questions should I ask the dealer to test the water? Obviously service history is the first port of call (who, where, when) I also ask if the history is just stamps in the book, or is it backed up with supporting paperwork etc.

Also how many is owners is useful to know. What else can I usefully find out remotely, should I ask if certain things have been done / replaced during the given services. Any differences in the questions for the 28i / 30i given their slightly different mechanicals?

 

[Silverstar]

If it is a dealer you can ask them about the number of previous owners and as you pointed out service history. You could ask them to forward you scans or photos of the service book and or invoices. Also ask them if the car has had any previous accident repairs / paintwork, they will probably say they don't know but they can't rely on that as a professional they will know and the law recognises that so if they don't tell you and you later buy the car and find it has had repairs you can reject the car and demand a refund. Not saying you shouldn't buy a car if it has had paintwork but it's good to know if it has and then when you physically go to look at the car you can check it to make sure the repair is done satisfactorily and also you or an expert can check the severity of the repair.

If buying privately ask how long they have owned it what work they have had done to it, if there are any issues / faults and if they have had any paintwork accident repair and most importantly why they are selling it.

That is what I can think of from the top of my head. The dealer scenario I wrote about above is what I used when I bought my E46 from a dealer in Berlin, Germany obviously couldn't go to see the car before buying due to them being in another country but using the above and being satisfied with the information they gave me I left them a 500€ deposit and went to collect the car two weeks later.

 

[True-Blue]

Quick question, how does a mapped 2.0i compare performance wise to a 3.0i E89?

I would have expected it to be a fair bit quicker, as surely it has a lot more torque due to the turbo?

 

[Anonymous]

Quick question, how does a mapped 2.0i compare performance wise to a 3.0i E89?

I would have expected it to be a fair bit quicker, as surely it has a lot more torque due to the turbo?

I did a 'Bondarmatic' calculator a while back to address /correlate this sort of question..so..

E89 30i manual 0-62 5.8 sec
E89 30i auto 0-62 6.1.sec
E89 N20 280BHP manual 5.4
E89 N20 280BHP auto 5.1

Enjoy..

As an aside most of the data was from BMW published figures..if you look at the graph the 30i is more anomalous on its correlation between BHP and 0-62 time..but heh..that's the numbers BMW published

 

[Big Bad Boris]

So today’s question is on suspension.

I have seen a car (or two) described as having “adaptive M suspension” which is a bit of a misnomer. The BMW £970 option (code 2VF) is actually called “adaptive M Sport suspension”.

I checked a VIN decoder on one of vehicles, it does not have the 2VF option, just M Sports suspension (S704). So is this just a bit of poetic license from the dealer, probably referring to the sport setting button next to the gear change. Should the word “adaptive” only be used in an advert if the car has the £970 option fitted?

 

[Smartbear]

So today’s question is on suspension.

I have seen a car (or two) described as having “adaptive M suspension” which is a bit of a misnomer. The BMW £970 option (code 2VF) is actually called “adaptive M Sport suspension”.

I checked a VIN decoder on one of vehicles, it does not have the 2VF option, just M Sports suspension (S704). So is this just a bit of poetic license from the dealer, probably referring to the sport setting button next to the gear change. Should the word “adaptive” only be used in an advert if the car has the £970 option fitted?

Yes, unless that options been chosen then the sport button doesn’t change the damper rates. Beware though, the adaptive dampers seem prone to early leakage (mot failure) and cost approaching £1k per corner to replace
Rob

 

[Big Bad Boris]

Holy smoley... probably best off without that particular option then !!

 

[Silverstar]

Holy smoley... probably best off without that particular option then !!

Yes if you don't want the inevitable expense. Many owners who's cars have adaptive change them to standard shocks when they have a problem with them anyway due to the high cost to replace.

 

[Smartbear]

Holy smoley... probably best off without that particular option then !!

Yes if you don't want the inevitable expense. Many owners who's cars have adaptive change them to standard shocks when they have a problem with them anyway due to the high cost to replace.

That can be a pain if you’re not savvy with coding as the dash warning lights need to be coded out to avoid mot failure :?
Rob

 

[Silverstar]

Holy smoley... probably best off without that particular option then !!

Yes if you don't want the inevitable expense. Many owners who's cars have adaptive change them to standard shocks when they have a problem with them anyway due to the high cost to replace.

That can be a pain if you’re not savvy with coding as the dash warning lights need to be coded out to avoid mot failure :?
Rob

All the more the reason to avoid a car with this option unless of course you don't mind the cost to fix them properly when they break.

 

[MACK]

Yes if you don't want the inevitable expense. Many owners who's cars have adaptive change them to standard shocks when they have a problem with them anyway due to the high cost to replace.

That can be a pain if you’re not savvy with coding as the dash warning lights need to be coded out to avoid mot failure :?
Rob

All the more the reason to avoid a car with this option unless of course you don't mind the cost to fix them properly when they break.

You can buy little plug and play electronic devices that attach to the cars loom in each wheel arch, where the shockers would otherwise have been plugged in. But they're obscenely expensive for what they are, from £350-400 upwards. Especially when you consider a full Bilstein/Eibach B12 Kit can be had from circa £650, your paying upwards of 50% more again just to turn a light out!

 

[Big Bad Boris]

I have my shopping list now. Final decision is wether to endeavour to buy now (which is obviously difficult ) or is it wise to wait to see if prices fall significantly over the coming months.

Leaving aside the “if you want it, get it” and the “if the right car comes along” arguments, will I getter a better deal if I wait..... where is the market going?