Thank you for the welcome to the forms. When I put the key in the ignition all of the internal electronics turn on, and I hear a faint click come from the ECU box by the firewall and driver-side strut tower. I have used an industrial-rated fluke meter rated to 500 amps and placed it in line with the firewall-mounted battery positive cable to a grounding point on the Strut tower. With that test, I do not see any current draw or amperage when the key is engaged I do see 12.8 volts and it drops to 12.51 when the key is engaged. I went to the ignition switch and used the pin out I was able to find and was able to see voltage pass through on key rotation for the ignition switch. I tracked those lines back down and ran into nothing coming out of the immobilization unit underneath the dash. I do not know if this is related to the key or the unit itself. The key will unlock the car from about 5 to 8 feet away. When I disconnected all of the cables from the starter and took the battery and directly wired it up with an interrupt switch. I was able to get the starter to engage, and the flywheel rotated properly. I visually inspected and checked resistances for most of the grounds. All the ones I was able to easily find an access. I am in Houston Texas