2003 E85Car wont start

Zim11911

Member
 Houston, TX
Hello,

I have a 2003 E85 Z4 2.5. Earlier this week the car started normally and had no known issues. As of Tuesday, it took several tries for the car to start, and then after I got home and tried to start it that evening it would not start. I have checked the battery 90% changed at 13.4 volts. Replaced the ignition switch and swapped out the starter today the car still won't start. I have checked all of the fuses in the glove box and the main fuses in the trunk. I am not sure that the Starter is getting power as I used an amp meter on the main positive line going to the starter solenoid and did not see any change after a failed start. and Ideas or recommendations?
 
Can you describe the symptoms? From what you have said so far I am guessing that the dash lights come on when you twist the key, but the starter motor doesn’t crank. Normally this would be a sign of a flat battery or the starter motor has failed, the latter particularly if it has been intermittent previously. However, if it is cranking and not starting, your problems lie elsewhere.
 
Hello,

I do not have a code reader. Insert the key go to turn the car on all the lights on the dash turn on the blower motor runs, and the radio turns on. I can hear 1 or 2 faint clicks from the engine compartment. It sounds like they are coming from the relay box by the firewall on the drive side. A new battery that is charged and tests good. I have replaced the starter motor and bench-tested it.
 
Give the starter motor a few light taps before starting.
If it still doesnt start, give it a harder tap and then try again.
If it still doesn't start, well then you're fkd.
:lol:
 
paddy wright said:
Have you a code reader to see if there’s any codes?
Is there a code reader you would recommend I have seen the Airbags codes are a thing on these cars so one that can clear that code would be optimal.
 
If you put it in gear and rock the car backwards and towards does the engine turn over?
 
I had similar problems with car not starting. Battery was showing full voltage and was always on a trickle charge. Turns out that battery was failing and wasnt pushing out enough amps. Changed battery and all fine. How old is your battery
 
I am looking into the Park Neutral interlock system. Thank you for that recommendation. I just replaced the battery with a new one on Thursday.
 
You have not made it clear if the engine turns over when the ignition key is turned to start position.
If it turns the engine then could be the cars EWS system is not being released to allow ignition to take place, this could be due to the transponder chip in the key not being read by the aerial around the ignition barrel or the transponder being absent from the key fob, not unknown for them to be lost if the key breaks open. Not unknown for the sync between the EWS module and the Main ECU module to loose sync and prevent starting. The two can be re-synced using INPA software.
 
Have you checked and cleaned the ground connection? Not just replace the starter. Clean both ends. Also your multimeter is probably only rated to 10A DC with thin leads. I wouldnt recommend putting this inline with a starter with a fuse rating of 40A. Did you mean to say you measured the voltage?
 
Whereabouts are you?
Plenty of experienced people around that may be close enough to help out.
For example, I know a man who can tell the EWS and DME to ignore each other so you would eliminate the chance it's an immobiliser issue.
 
It looks like it is the immobilization circuit tested with a meter. I get the right signals to the module under the dash and nothing out. If I disconnect the starter and directly apply power to the starter with it still installed I can get it to engage properly.
 
Back
Top Bottom