100k maintenance decisions - need help!
- Thread starter fernando306
- Start date
fernando306
Member
Got the pump out by undoing the motor mounts and jacking it up!
The water pump looks flawless lol. I wish it had the manufacturing date on it to know whether it is stock or has been replaced already.
The water pump looks flawless lol. I wish it had the manufacturing date on it to know whether it is stock or has been replaced already.
Even though it may look flawless, a lot of times it's the bearing that starts to fail. Then the slightest movement allows water past the seal into the area in front of the bearing. If you look underneath you'll see a drain hole which is the tell tale for bearing failure.fernando306 said:
So even if the impeller looks good, there's no knowing the state of the bearing.
fernando306
Member
What is the part number of this pulley? Funny, I can't seem to find it on FCP Euro!
fernando306
Member
Indeed FCP Euro didn't have it. Had to order from ECS Tunning.
Okay, so here's what we're doing:
- Belts, tensioners and pulleys
- Cooling system overhaul, all new parts.
- CCV system (got the winter version)
- Oil filter bracket gasket and valve cover gasket
- Control Arm bushings
- Motor mounts
- Got the wheels refurbished and new Continental tires on them.
Just that.
Okay, so here's what we're doing:
- Belts, tensioners and pulleys
- Cooling system overhaul, all new parts.
- CCV system (got the winter version)
- Oil filter bracket gasket and valve cover gasket
- Control Arm bushings
- Motor mounts
- Got the wheels refurbished and new Continental tires on them.
Just that.
DMike
Senior member
If you are replacing the tensioner (M54 i presume?) too, then sourcing an old design oem spring tensioner may prove hard. That was superseded by a hydraulic tensioner, oem made by INA and, comparing them side by side, the old design is flimpy compared to the new one. INA has a nice retrofit kit for the conversion.fernando306 said:
fernando306
Member
My friends, what are the torq specs for these?
- Intake Manifold
- Throttle body
- Vanos unit (I'm replacing that gasket too)
- Valve cover
- The 6 oil filter bracket bolts
- Water pump
- Control arm bushings 31126783376
Lots of things to put together!
- Intake Manifold
- Throttle body
- Vanos unit (I'm replacing that gasket too)
- Valve cover
- The 6 oil filter bracket bolts
- Water pump
- Control arm bushings 31126783376
Lots of things to put together!
fernando306
Member
DMike said:
Yeah, I saw that. Weird! I don't get why complicate a simple tensioner, makes no sense to me. Anyhow, I got the one from INA you mentioned:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ina-parts/mechanical-alternator-belt-tensioner-assembly/11281427252~ina/
tug said:Brilliant work. Your zed will be in excellent working order for the long trip. Wouldnt it be funny (probably not!) if after all this fine work, 15 miles into the trip you get a flat tyre! :lol:
I can't wait to drive this thing. It will be like a new car. Especially because I'm getting the motor mounts, control arm bushings replaced, and changing the old RFT tires with brank new AS continentals. I'll experience all these changes at once haha!
fernando306
Member
fernando306 said:
Do these seem correct?
15 nm and 22nM for the intake manifold, DISA Valve 10nm
Throttle body 10nm
Vanos unit to block 8nm
Valve cover 10nm
22 Nm for the oil filter bracket bolts.
Water pump 10nm
Control arm bushings 59nm
Thermostat housing 9.9nm (wtf?)
Alternator bolts 64nm
DMike
Senior member
The hydraulic tensioner design (INA 11287838797) was introduced due noise issues with the old one. The design should give a more constant pull on the belt.fernando306 said:DMike said:
Yeah, I saw that. Weird! I don't get why complicate a simple tensioner, makes no sense to me. Anyhow, I got the one from INA you mentioned:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ina-parts/mechanical-alternator-belt-tensioner-assembly/11281427252~ina/
tug said:Brilliant work. Your zed will be in excellent working order for the long trip. Wouldnt it be funny (probably not!) if after all this fine work, 15 miles into the trip you get a flat tyre! :lol:
I can't wait to drive this thing. It will be like a new car. Especially because I'm getting the motor mounts, control arm bushings replaced, and changing the old RFT tires with brank new AS continentals. I'll experience all these changes at once haha!
fernando306
Member
Hello my friends,
I drained the oil about two weeks ago, when I pulled the oil filter bracket. LOTS of oil came out of the bracket.
Since it is so dry in terms of lubrication, when I put it back together, wouldn't it be good to kill the fuel pump so I can crank without starting it to circulate the oil first? I'm thinking of the empty bracket, empty oil filter, empty everything.
My concern is that by not having fuel getting into the cylinders, it could potentially score it because it will be bone dry cranking with no active fuel system?
I drained the oil about two weeks ago, when I pulled the oil filter bracket. LOTS of oil came out of the bracket.
Since it is so dry in terms of lubrication, when I put it back together, wouldn't it be good to kill the fuel pump so I can crank without starting it to circulate the oil first? I'm thinking of the empty bracket, empty oil filter, empty everything.
My concern is that by not having fuel getting into the cylinders, it could potentially score it because it will be bone dry cranking with no active fuel system?
fernando306
Member
Hello my friends!
1200 mile after service update.
All went well. Except one thing: I purchased the NISSENS radiator, and right off the bat it was leaking.
I didn't worry much about it, just sent it back to FCP Euro and got refunded. Put the original rad back. Zero issues.
Until now. At 101k, damn original radiator started leaking for the first time. So sad. I thought I would get at least one year more out of the thing... So, we were right to replace it at 100k, but buying the Nissens brand was silly. I bought the OEM this time.
Also I measured the compression of my engine. 185 to 190 psi on all 6 cilinders.
1200 mile after service update.
All went well. Except one thing: I purchased the NISSENS radiator, and right off the bat it was leaking.
I didn't worry much about it, just sent it back to FCP Euro and got refunded. Put the original rad back. Zero issues.
Until now. At 101k, damn original radiator started leaking for the first time. So sad. I thought I would get at least one year more out of the thing... So, we were right to replace it at 100k, but buying the Nissens brand was silly. I bought the OEM this time.
Also I measured the compression of my engine. 185 to 190 psi on all 6 cilinders.
Hi Fernando306 -
I've enjoyed reading through your posts and the help you've gotten from fellow owners here. My 2006 coupe has almost 90K miles now, but it's 'resting' for the winter. I plan to do many of the same things you've just completed, though with some differences between the N52 and the M54 engines.
Did you replace the hard coolant pipes ? I used to own a 2005 325xi sedan with the M54 engine and similar hard coolant lines to yours. I replaced those hard coolant pipes at 12 years of age (166K miles), and I could not remove them without breaking the #1 pipe in Gregory Tolson's diagram. The forward L-shaped end twisted off w O-ring connector piece still in block/head. I was able to clamp a single jaw from a gear puller in a vise grip pliers and slowly pull it out a little at a time. The pipes hadn't leaked yet, and they looked fine from outside, but the plastic deteriorates with heat and time, just like the "Mickey Mouse" flange on an N52 cooling hose.
Thanks for follow-up on your progress. It's a great help to see people really caring for their cars instead of just the bare minimum (if even) oil and coolant changes!
I've enjoyed reading through your posts and the help you've gotten from fellow owners here. My 2006 coupe has almost 90K miles now, but it's 'resting' for the winter. I plan to do many of the same things you've just completed, though with some differences between the N52 and the M54 engines.
Did you replace the hard coolant pipes ? I used to own a 2005 325xi sedan with the M54 engine and similar hard coolant lines to yours. I replaced those hard coolant pipes at 12 years of age (166K miles), and I could not remove them without breaking the #1 pipe in Gregory Tolson's diagram. The forward L-shaped end twisted off w O-ring connector piece still in block/head. I was able to clamp a single jaw from a gear puller in a vise grip pliers and slowly pull it out a little at a time. The pipes hadn't leaked yet, and they looked fine from outside, but the plastic deteriorates with heat and time, just like the "Mickey Mouse" flange on an N52 cooling hose.
Thanks for follow-up on your progress. It's a great help to see people really caring for their cars instead of just the bare minimum (if even) oil and coolant changes!
fernando306
Member
Z4Mariner said:
Awesome! I have plenty of pictures / video, I need to edit them together and upload to Youtube.
Yes. I did replace the coolant pipes under the intake manifold. Majaor inconvenience! Like you, I also had a very hard time pulling them out, but figured that was a ticking bomb. Once it was out, I cleaned the port really well with a dremel bit with a wire brush, so it became smooth again. Also vacuummed the port, just to make sure no debree is left.
The ICV was pretty carbonized, so that was nice to clean. PCV system was fine, but replaced anyway.
One note that was a bit of a let down, is that the lower radiator hose from REIN leaked from the start. I had to reuse the old one. Of course, I ordered a new BMW Genuine now, to go along with the new Genuine BMW radiator. I think the whole thing cost like 2.5k dollars total :roll:
The new radiator just shipped from FCP, looking forward to pop that one in!
