100k maintenance decisions - need help!

[fernando306]

Hello my friends,

It's hitting the 100K miles mark, so I decided to change the belts, pulleys, water pump along with thermostat housing, expansion tank, and hoses. Now, one thing leads to another...

Should I replace the radiator? It's stock. No leaks.
Should I replace the PCV system kit? No problems as far as I can tell. But it is bone stock and 18 years old.

I'll drive this thing from Oklahoma to New York and back, it will be a 3 thousand mile long trip.

 

[PDJ]

Was going to say leave it until it is a problem

Then read the last bit 3,000 plus miles in one trip

As I don't have a crystal ball it is hard to say what if anything would break on your trip

So no real help from me this time

 

[enuff_zed]

Think my vote would be a yes to the PCV.

As you have the coolant system apart why not change the rad anyway?
You can keep the old one as a spare if it is still good. Or even swap back after your trip and keep the newer one as the spare.

However, to add to your considerations, if you upgrade the rest of the cooling system then the next weakest point becomes the expansion tank. For me that is a much higher candidate for change than the radiator.

 

[enuff_zed]

Oh, and on a related point, why not put out a little call on the forum to see if there are any other members along your proposed route. Always good to have a back up option.

 

[fernando306]

Think my vote would be a yes to the PCV.

As you have the coolant system apart why not change the rad anyway?
You can keep the old one as a spare if it is still good. Or even swap back after your trip and keep the newer one as the spare.

However, to add to your considerations, if you upgrade the rest of the cooling system then the next weakest point becomes the expansion tank. For me that is a much higher candidate for change than the radiator.

Good point. Actually, I will re-replace the expansion tank. Did it once using URO Parts and will do it again using OEM. The URO Parts replacement doesn't send the signal to the coolant level sensor, and believe me, the sensor is fine. I've replaced the sensor and no go, the issue lies on the actual expansion tank, hence why I'll replace it for the second time. :headbang:

I'm hesitant to do the rad, as it just doesn't leak, and it adds another $200 or so, which is the price of the PCV kit. Rads usually don't have a catastrophic failure mode. But anyway, how long do they usually last? If it's another weak point (like the expansion tank ALWAYS is), I might do that as well.

 

[enuff_zed]

Not heard much about the rads failing tbh.
I'd go for the expansion tank first.

For your info, the expansion tank has the visual check float which only drops to just over halfway down the tank. I guess so that when you think it's low there's still some in there.
Then in a separate section in the bottom half is the low level sensor float. This incorporates a magnet and is a circular float around the outside of the tube that the sensor sits in. When it drops down the magnet activates a reed switch which puts on the warning light. Sounds like your float is stuck, or you've never let it get low enough to trigger.
I say that because some people think it's all part of that top float and that simply pushing that down will activate the sensor.

 

[fernando306]

Exactly! The lower level float must be stuck or something. I would get intermitted coolant level warnings as I drove the car, but the level was always fine. Checked the harness and sensor, both good. So I jumped the terminal to get rid of the flashing light, and since it never leaked, no consequence for doing that. But now is time to quit relying on luck and get the proper tank in place, with a functioning low level float.

 

[fernando306]

Not heard much about the rads failing tbh.
I'd go for the expansion tank first.

For your info, the expansion tank has the visual check float which only drops to just over halfway down the tank. I guess so that when you think it's low there's still some in there.
Then in a separate section in the bottom half is the low level sensor float. This incorporates a magnet and is a circular float around the outside of the tube that the sensor sits in. When it drops down the magnet activates a reed switch which puts on the warning light. Sounds like your float is stuck, or you've never let it get low enough to trigger.
I say that because some people think it's all part of that top float and that simply pushing that down will activate the sensor.

How about this mounting plate? Water passes through it, and it strikes me as a fragile part. Is this a weak point or not?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-mounting-plate-17112248408

 

[enuff_zed]

Personally never seen one of those fail, but maybe someone else can advise?

 

[fernando306]

Ok, I'll pass on that one as well :rofl:

How about the Oil Filter Braket Gasket?
Yes or No?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-oil-filter-housing-gasket-kit-11421719855-kt#reviews

 

[patriot66]

That mounting plate is not very substantial and far too flexible in my opinion. When fitting a new expansion tank you are pushing the tank downwards onto the two circular connections on the plate. I spray a bit of silicone spray on the o-rings and support the plate from below with a block of wood on a trolley jack to prevent it flexing and cracking.
I was buttoning things up back in March after installing my supercharger when my 4.5 yr old Meyle expansion tank decided to split. Was expecting much better longevity from it Replaced it with a Febi Bilstein tank which appears excellent quality...fingers crossed A few days later was dissapointed to see a small quantity of coolant down on the engine undertray, directly below the new expansion tank...not happy ! Anyway, upon inspection the original '03 radiator with 95k miles had developed a drip from it's lower corner adjacent to the expansion tank...not happy at all ! Coincidence ? Maybe. Fitted a cheap(ish) EIS,Germany radiator which seems good quality for the money. So far, so good. Time will tell

 

[fernando306]

Hey Patriot66,

Supercharger, huh? I bet that is AWESOME to drive.

Got it. I will probably do the rad + mounting plate, and drop that whole thing with the expansion tank as a unit back in the car.

How about the oil filter braked gasket, anyone? Since I'll be doing the PCV....? :headbang:

 

[patriot66]

Hey Patriot66,

Supercharger, huh? I bet that is AWESOME to drive.

Got it. I will probably do the rad + mounting plate, and drop that whole thing with the expansion tank as a unit back in the car.

How about the oil filter braked gasket, anyone? Since I'll be doing the PCV....? :headbang:

Yes, VERY pleased indeed with the s/c. It's made quite a transformation :driving:
Think you'll struggle or even find it impossible to get the rad/plate/exp.tank in situ all as one due to limited access
Yes, replace the oil filter housing gasket. I have. They go hard and brittle with age/heat cycles and then leak oil. Not a question of if, but when.
Not a difficult job but a little long winded as the o.f.h itself is also the top mount for the alternator, so that needs to be removed first :roll:
PCV/CCV replacement is another definite in my book. Most of the plastic pipes go hard/brittle/fail, again due to age and heat cycles. Did mine a few years back (all Febi Bilstein) and removed the inlet manifold to make life easier and also replaced the o.f.h gasket at the same time

 

[fernando306]

This supercharger looks NEAT, very clean installation.

I'll start dismanteling everything soon, will keep you posted!

 

[patriot66]

This supercharger looks NEAT, very clean installation.

I'll start dismanteling everything soon, will keep you posted!

 

[Gregory_tolson]

100,000 mile maintenance items. Have you:

1. Refreshed the DISA valve? The pin design is a flaw that needs to be addressed north of 100k miles. Mine was half way from falling out into the intake. I replaced it with the German Auto Solutions kit. Its pricey for the materials but worth it.
2. Changed Gear Oil and Transmission fluid?
3. Changed any suspension? Rear Springs are known to crack.
4. Changed Spark Plugs?
5. Resolved all oil leaks? Valve Cover gasket and Oil Filter housing gasket?
6. Changed Engine Mounts?

Definitely change CCV and very good job changing all the cooling items. Im dreading doing that one.

 

[fernando306]

100,000 mile maintenance items. Have you:

1. Refreshed the DISA valve? The pin design is a flaw that needs to be addressed north of 100k miles. Mine was half way from falling out into the intake. I replaced it with the German Auto Solutions kit. Its pricey for the materials but worth it.
2. Changed Gear Oil and Transmission fluid?
3. Changed any suspension? Rear Springs are known to crack.
4. Changed Spark Plugs?
5. Resolved all oil leaks? Valve Cover gasket and Oil Filter housing gasket?
6. Changed Engine Mounts?

Definitely change CCV and very good job changing all the cooling items. Im dreading doing that one.

Hey my friend,

1 - Fully rebuilt the DISA with the upgraded kit from X8R.
2 - Yes, both trans and diff.
3 - Changed all springs, struts and bump stops
4 - Brand new plugs
5 - Valve cover gasket changed, now I will do the Oil Filter housing.
6 - No. I haven't noticed the need for it, but might do it just for the heck of it (it's easy).

Will do the PCV.

My friends, how about the heater core hoses? There are two, one long and easy to replace, and one small that attaches to the back of the engine to the heater core. Looks like it is a nightmare to change. Are these known to fail? Overkill to replace those?

 

[Gregory_tolson]

100,000 mile maintenance items. Have you:

1. Refreshed the DISA valve? The pin design is a flaw that needs to be addressed north of 100k miles. Mine was half way from falling out into the intake. I replaced it with the German Auto Solutions kit. Its pricey for the materials but worth it.
2. Changed Gear Oil and Transmission fluid?
3. Changed any suspension? Rear Springs are known to crack.
4. Changed Spark Plugs?
5. Resolved all oil leaks? Valve Cover gasket and Oil Filter housing gasket?
6. Changed Engine Mounts?

Definitely change CCV and very good job changing all the cooling items. Im dreading doing that one.

Hey my friend,

1 - Fully rebuilt the DISA with the upgraded kit from X8R.
2 - Yes, both trans and diff.
3 - Changed all springs, struts and bump stops
4 - Brand new plugs
5 - Valve cover gasket changed, now I will do the Oil Filter housing.
6 - No. I haven't noticed the need for it, but might do it just for the heck of it (it's easy).

Will do the PCV.

My friends, how about the heater core hoses? There are two, one long and easy to replace, and one small that attaches to the back of the engine to the heater core. Looks like it is a nightmare to change. Are these known to fail? Overkill to replace those?

I think any rubber hoses have to be addressed. Did you change the plastic tube underneath the intake manifold? I would assume the heater core hoses would be ideal to change when intake manifold is removed. Whats unfortunate is RealOEM does not show the PN of the heater core hoses. These are those tubes underneath the intake manifold:

 

[fernando306]

Found on FCP Euro!
11537502525 and 11531705210.

Do these really tend to fail? It's getting expenssssssive... :|

 

[fernando306]

:headbang: