'06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*
- Thread starter th30d0r3
- Start date
billy_beemer
Member
You're not wrong.
See I was getting it to work by unplugging the speaker inputs to the cleansweep so there's no resistance at the head unit, reconnect and it was away.
Now for people out there with Cleansweeps if you get a similar problem I spent all last night re-crimping and checking polarity's, no result, until I unplugged the RCAs between the cleansweep and the amp, re-powered up the system and reconnected them - been fine ever since !!
Once the car has been 'asleep' for a minute it's after that point a 'check' is initiated, so for anyone out there with head units that appears fine but no sound - disconnect whatever you've wired up and add a stock 4ohm speaker one by one till you find the problem.
I actually found out about the protection check when I phoned up Harwood Basingstoke parts dept and the sales guy put me onto an engineer who said "much as we'd LOVE to sell you a £500 head unit, it's virtually always the case that there's a snagged cable that's causing the headunit to go into protection mode" of course the dealer recommends putting it back to stock - but then, where's teh fun in that
Right, all fixed, 26 degrees outside............ guess I know what I'm doing this afternoon....... it's M time
See I was getting it to work by unplugging the speaker inputs to the cleansweep so there's no resistance at the head unit, reconnect and it was away.
Now for people out there with Cleansweeps if you get a similar problem I spent all last night re-crimping and checking polarity's, no result, until I unplugged the RCAs between the cleansweep and the amp, re-powered up the system and reconnected them - been fine ever since !!
Once the car has been 'asleep' for a minute it's after that point a 'check' is initiated, so for anyone out there with head units that appears fine but no sound - disconnect whatever you've wired up and add a stock 4ohm speaker one by one till you find the problem.
I actually found out about the protection check when I phoned up Harwood Basingstoke parts dept and the sales guy put me onto an engineer who said "much as we'd LOVE to sell you a £500 head unit, it's virtually always the case that there's a snagged cable that's causing the headunit to go into protection mode" of course the dealer recommends putting it back to stock - but then, where's teh fun in that
Right, all fixed, 26 degrees outside............ guess I know what I'm doing this afternoon....... it's M time
billy_beemer
Member
Just more info for anyone out there searching....
If BMW head unit + Cleansweep = no sound, try re-calibrating it while the head unit is in it's 'protection mode'
Works a treat and explains that it wasn't anything to do with re-seating random RCA cables!!
If BMW head unit + Cleansweep = no sound, try re-calibrating it while the head unit is in it's 'protection mode'
Works a treat and explains that it wasn't anything to do with re-seating random RCA cables!!
spr_bimmer
Member
Just thought i would add to this thread rather than creating my own... Awesome write up and detailed pics.
Mine is a 2004 roadster, the previous owner had done a horible job adding two amps to power the 10 stock speakers
so I decided to re do everything including all wiring.
here is the previous owners wiring...
Most of my system is by Alpine, a brand i have trusted for a long time.
Added the Bluetooth and the little red box is to adapt the steering wheel controls.
The head unit is really made for ipod, i had the original in my old car and loved it. The mids are 4" (100cm).
Not pictured is the PDX-F4 amp that i'm using to power the 6.5" components and the JL 6w3v3 Subs, the 4 mids are powered by the deck.
Almost every panel in the car taken off, just shy of 17 hours of my time to install, paid a shop to do the steering wheel controls, front kick panel speakes
with tweeters located in stock locations and to wire up the bluetooth, 3 hours. Almost a full 100 feet of wire went into this install to get to all the speakers...
Started raining so i had to improvise, i should have done this at my condo in the underground parking instead.
Note the awesome random license plate i happened to get when i registered the car!
The original owner cut the factory harness so i had to solder in the new one in the dash, kind of a pain.
head unit lights up blue or red. kind of matches the interior lighting.
for the 4" speakers in the back, these alpines fit great, two top screws in the factory holes and the two bottom tabs drilled into the cars metal with self taping screws.
The door speakers i used two original mouting holes then cut up a full bracket that came with the speaker to make a little holder for the third location.
Seen on the left and cut the 2 tabs from the speaker. They are all sealed with 2 way foam tape.
The original speaker grills will need a bit of tweaking for bothe the front and rears... i will be bumping them out since the tweeters touch the grills if installed rightr now.
The subs were mounted on the factory metal plates, 3 of the 8 screws and bolts for this sub could not be installed because of clearance.
Always use proper connectors!
I'm very pleased with the result. parts and the 3 hours labour came to less than $2000 CND.
Mine is a 2004 roadster, the previous owner had done a horible job adding two amps to power the 10 stock speakers
so I decided to re do everything including all wiring.
here is the previous owners wiring...
Most of my system is by Alpine, a brand i have trusted for a long time.
Added the Bluetooth and the little red box is to adapt the steering wheel controls.
The head unit is really made for ipod, i had the original in my old car and loved it. The mids are 4" (100cm).
Not pictured is the PDX-F4 amp that i'm using to power the 6.5" components and the JL 6w3v3 Subs, the 4 mids are powered by the deck.
Almost every panel in the car taken off, just shy of 17 hours of my time to install, paid a shop to do the steering wheel controls, front kick panel speakes
with tweeters located in stock locations and to wire up the bluetooth, 3 hours. Almost a full 100 feet of wire went into this install to get to all the speakers...
Started raining so i had to improvise, i should have done this at my condo in the underground parking instead.
Note the awesome random license plate i happened to get when i registered the car!
The original owner cut the factory harness so i had to solder in the new one in the dash, kind of a pain.
head unit lights up blue or red. kind of matches the interior lighting.
for the 4" speakers in the back, these alpines fit great, two top screws in the factory holes and the two bottom tabs drilled into the cars metal with self taping screws.
The door speakers i used two original mouting holes then cut up a full bracket that came with the speaker to make a little holder for the third location.
Seen on the left and cut the 2 tabs from the speaker. They are all sealed with 2 way foam tape.
The original speaker grills will need a bit of tweaking for bothe the front and rears... i will be bumping them out since the tweeters touch the grills if installed rightr now.
The subs were mounted on the factory metal plates, 3 of the 8 screws and bolts for this sub could not be installed because of clearance.
Always use proper connectors!
I'm very pleased with the result. parts and the 3 hours labour came to less than $2000 CND.
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What a fabulous write up, top-drawer and then some! 
This thread is the best info yet on an audio system for which there seems to be frustratingly little "official" data out there. I'm in the U.S., where there are even fewer of these cars, and even finding an installer or retailer that knows about them is tough. Thank you guys for going through all the trouble!
I have a planning question that may show how novice I really am about this, which is an important component here. I have a 2007 Z4 M that has (I think...) the mid-line system with 10 speakers & DSP, but not the Carver subs (I don't think...no EQ setting available in the head unit). I installed Bavarian Sound Works' "Stage I upgrade," which replaces door speakers+tweeters, and want to do more. I don't hate the sound I have and don't want to chase perfection, but I'm hoping I can go to the next level with a bit more time and money, but not breaking the bank on either front.
Based on various posts, I see the technical challenges and would be thrown to the wolves if there was line noise or activation of a protection circuit that required gutting the sytem. That in mind, I thought about just replacing the speaker elements. I see three choices: (1) replacement of the footwell speakers and all rears, though I understand the stock subs have little clearance; or (2) swap the footwell 6.5s and upper-rears (mids only?) add a sub amp and low-profile enclosure, which I suppose would involve tapping in to create a line output; or (3) go bigger with a Cleansweep and all of #2 above, with the possibility of later expansion. I don't even know where those get wired in, though.
Any tips? Thank you again. This is all REALLY (!!!) helpful.
I have a planning question that may show how novice I really am about this, which is an important component here. I have a 2007 Z4 M that has (I think...) the mid-line system with 10 speakers & DSP, but not the Carver subs (I don't think...no EQ setting available in the head unit). I installed Bavarian Sound Works' "Stage I upgrade," which replaces door speakers+tweeters, and want to do more. I don't hate the sound I have and don't want to chase perfection, but I'm hoping I can go to the next level with a bit more time and money, but not breaking the bank on either front.
Based on various posts, I see the technical challenges and would be thrown to the wolves if there was line noise or activation of a protection circuit that required gutting the sytem. That in mind, I thought about just replacing the speaker elements. I see three choices: (1) replacement of the footwell speakers and all rears, though I understand the stock subs have little clearance; or (2) swap the footwell 6.5s and upper-rears (mids only?) add a sub amp and low-profile enclosure, which I suppose would involve tapping in to create a line output; or (3) go bigger with a Cleansweep and all of #2 above, with the possibility of later expansion. I don't even know where those get wired in, though.
Any tips? Thank you again. This is all REALLY (!!!) helpful.
billy_beemer
Member
.
A
Anonymous
Guest
billy_beemer,
I like the sound of your final solution, thanks so much for posting all this great information. I plan on doing something similar, mainly because I already have a couple of Fli 900 amps and a decent wiring kit gathering dust in the shed...
I do however have a couple of questions for you:
1. Regarding the positioning of the amp. You say its under the carpet, is this in the boot or in the cabin somewhere?
I only ask because I really dont fancy wiring all the way from the Head Unit to the boot and back again.
2. Do you think Vibe QB69 Black Death (Rectangle 6x9) speakers would fit in the storage bins behind the seats? A little modification isn't a problem for me but I dont want to take an angle grinder to it this time I only ask because I already have the speakers and they do make one hell of a racket, I will probably only turn them on when I'm feeling rowdy...
Thanks,
Stlymch
I like the sound of your final solution, thanks so much for posting all this great information. I plan on doing something similar, mainly because I already have a couple of Fli 900 amps and a decent wiring kit gathering dust in the shed...
I do however have a couple of questions for you:
1. Regarding the positioning of the amp. You say its under the carpet, is this in the boot or in the cabin somewhere?
I only ask because I really dont fancy wiring all the way from the Head Unit to the boot and back again.
2. Do you think Vibe QB69 Black Death (Rectangle 6x9) speakers would fit in the storage bins behind the seats? A little modification isn't a problem for me but I dont want to take an angle grinder to it this time
I only ask because I already have the speakers and they do make one hell of a racket, I will probably only turn them on when I'm feeling rowdy...Thanks,
Stlymch
Very nice install th30d0r3! My car has the mid-level sound (lots of speakers, none of them very good) and it's definitely pretty poor. Having had the door trim off to checkout a broken window regulator, the speakers are absolute junk.
Two of my dad's previous BMWs (BMW 328i E36 Convertible and MINI Cooper S Cabrio) had the Harmon/Kardon upgrades which sounded awesome, then his 125i E88 and 20i E89 had the sucky standard audio, a significant step down. Great to read a write up like this to fix it!
Two of my dad's previous BMWs (BMW 328i E36 Convertible and MINI Cooper S Cabrio) had the Harmon/Kardon upgrades which sounded awesome, then his 125i E88 and 20i E89 had the sucky standard audio, a significant step down. Great to read a write up like this to fix it!
That's a great write up, thanks
Any chance you took pics during the install?
Any chance you took pics during the install?
I know I’m reviving an old thread but this needs moving to the How-to section please mods!
I’ve found it super useful installing my own speakers alongside PerryGunn’s excellent door panel thread (my car is facelift so thankfully didn’t require the membrane’s removal).
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=53812&hilit=Door+panel+sound
I’ve found it super useful installing my own speakers alongside PerryGunn’s excellent door panel thread (my car is facelift so thankfully didn’t require the membrane’s removal).
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=53812&hilit=Door+panel+sound
