What have you done to your E89 today

Lyons said:
I moved the 10mm spacers to the rear and added 12mm ones to the front. The rear has definitely beefed up well now.

Also changed the calipers from red to black while I was at it.

In an ideal world the front could do with a slight drop, but wouldn’t want to risk having it any lower on the roads round where I live.

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I see why you have moved the
Anger spacers to the front… assuming you have the 8” wide rim on the front, the offset is 8mm more than spec for a z4 front rim so your 12mm spacer is the equivalent of stock plus 4mm. Rear offset is only 1mm different from the 9”wide 326m rim so the 10mm spacer complements the front nicely for an OEM+ stance. Nice work sir.
 
Turned my attention to the rear camber arms yesterday. One bolt either end, easy work…. Except it isn’t.

In true BMW fashion, the outboard bolts are no problem, but the inners.. the right hand side unbolts ok but you can’t get the bolt out as the diff is in the way 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️. Left side, requires the exhaust to be removed. Neither wanting to be tackled on the drive. The outboard bushings at the forked end of the wishbones are replaceable with the much more substantial ball joints from the M3 so I will have those pressed in when it gets done.

Anyhow, revised plan is to wait until it goes in for work that requires a ramp, likely engine and gearbox oil change and if the diff has to be dropped I will take the opportunity to change the diff oil at the same time. Gearbox is supposed to be lifetime oil but new oil never did anything mechanical any harm.

Being that it could be a little while, took it for a laser alignment with the insurance of a new set of bolts in case any would not behave. They all did as it happens with the fronts no problem as the tie rods and ends were replaced last week for this purpose. Then gave it a thorough test drive in the sunshine all afternoon.

Next job is the rocker cover replacement, as I am very conscious of my bush fix on the HPFP stripped thread.
 
KHe89Z4 said:
Turned my attention to the rear camber arms yesterday. One bolt either end, easy work…. Except it isn’t.

In true BMW fashion, the outboard bolts are no problem, but the inners.. the right hand side unbolts ok but you can’t get the bolt out as the diff is in the way 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️. Left side, requires the exhaust to be removed. Neither wanting to be tackled on the drive. The outboard bushings at the forked end of the wishbones are replaceable with the much more substantial ball joints from the M3 so I will have those pressed in when it gets done.

Anyhow, revised plan is to wait until it goes in for work that requires a ramp, likely engine and gearbox oil change and if the diff has to be dropped I will take the opportunity to change the diff oil at the same time. Gearbox is supposed to be lifetime oil but new oil never did anything mechanical any harm.

Being that it could be a little while, took it for a laser alignment with the insurance of a new set of bolts in case any would not behave. They all did as it happens with the fronts no problem as the tie rods and ends were replaced last week for this purpose. Then gave it a thorough test drive in the sunshine all afternoon.

Next job is the rocker cover replacement, as I am very conscious of my bush fix on the HPFP stripped thread.
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Might as well drop a Quaife lsd in and get some powerflex rear camber arms with greater adjustment potential…imho
 
B21 said:
Might as well drop a Quaife lsd in and get some powerflex rear camber arms with greater adjustment potential…imho
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I’ve already bought the new camber arms. Just haven’t got them on the car yet. In a way, it’s good as I’m curious to try the M3 ball joints too.

I was also thinking about which other bushings to upgrade on the rear end to dial out the wobble and wander. Don’t want to ruin the ride quality, in fact I’d like to improve it a bit but perhaps selective use of powerflex may be worth considering. But where is the best place? Subframe could make the ride too hard. Diff? Logic would lean towards the control arms for precision reasons but would even that allow too much NVH transmission into the chassis? A word from the wise would be appreciated with any experiences to share.
 
KHe89Z4 said:
Rather than get an auto electrician in to do my coding, I decided to buy a Carly and do it myself. I needed an OBD reader anyway to diagnose issues (more of that later) so I set about the coding jobs with mixed results..

Reversing the Auto Start Stop to default OFF seems to have worked. I had presumed that the button would be lit orange all the time as it does if you press it to disable the function but it doesn’t seem to be. If it has just reversed the state in the background and leaves the button unilluminated, I actually think that’s a better outcome.

Car has electric mirrors so I coded the passenger mirror to dip on reverse engagement. Normally, if you don’t want it to dip you move the mirror toggle switch to the passenger side but I’ve tried it in both positions and it won’t dip. I guess that is not an available feature on my car rather than the coding not working.

I fitted the LED Reversing lights without any coding and they seem fine, I could always turn off the voltage monitoring if required but the bulbs I used are marked with CANBUS so I suspect it’s already worked out (like the angel eyes).

Adjusting the heated seat temperatures. This is supposed to be done through one of either the Junction Box module or the Footwell module. Despite Carly saying it can be done, there is no coding items in either to do with heated seats. I looked in all the other available modules and it’s not there either. Wonder if anyone can shed more light on this.
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Update on the auto start-stop. After coding, the car remembers the last setting you input using the button and retains it thereafter. So having pressed the button to light it up orange, every time I get in it is in that state.
 
KHe89Z4 said:
I’ve already bought the new camber arms. Just haven’t got them on the car yet. In a way, it’s good as I’m curious to try the M3 ball joints too.

I was also thinking about which other bushings to upgrade on the rear end to dial out the wobble and wander. Don’t want to ruin the ride quality, in fact I’d like to improve it a bit but perhaps selective use of powerflex may be worth considering. But where is the best place? Subframe could make the ride too hard. Diff? Logic would lean towards the control arms for precision reasons but would even that allow too much NVH transmission into the chassis? A word from the wise would be appreciated with any experiences to share.
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M3 front suspension links are a very good move…uprated RTABs plus mounts and rear knuckle bushes are the rear focus..Hardrace do some very good options there..
 
Zed Baron said:
"did anyone see where that bloke wi the Z4 went?"..."aye, he's sitting up there in the racking staring at us!" "bleedin, Z4 drivers, they're all the same!":rofl:
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His garage is on the site of an old steel works, and over the years, the building has been sub-divided into separate units.

His neighbours are Abbeydale Brewery, who, among other things, brew Moonshine Pale Ale - I was simply trying to find a way through in the hope of procuring a few samples 🤣
 
Replaced the O rings (oval) on the inlet manifold.
Wasn't giving a problem, just seemed good idea after i spotted them doing the filter housing seals..

What is surprising how much oil from breather gets to the manifold, enough to be wet and settle on the intakes when manifold removed..
The cam cover was replaced some couple of years ago, perhaps the separator design poor.
 
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Sebastalona said:
Just making use of the stars aligning (afternoon off/great weather). Filled it up with V-Power and enjoyed a great day up to St.Andrews, back down to Stirling then home.
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Coffee meet up at Dawyck Gardens on Sunday morning at 10am per the FB Scotland Z4 page if the weather is still nice? Just past Peebles so a wee half hour from Edinburgh. :driving:
 
The season is open..a lot of my trips are multi day or even multi week, often far from support and logistics. The weather can turn and even if you’re great shape sometimes your pals aren’y.



Here’s my touring ‘payload’..in particular order..minor and major detail..

5 pairs of glasses: bifocals clear and tinted, clear no prescription, yellow tinted, plus reading glasses

2 tins boiled sweets

Matching yellow scarf, leather driving gloves

Spare hat and golf umbrella

1kg dry powder fire extinguisher

Android phone with BimmerGeeks Protool , charger pack, spare cables and wifi dongle

3 High performance PMR radios

2 Emergency hi viz vests

1 Hi viz fully insulated water proof jacket

Full size 326M with 235/40 19 Conti SC7..can be used at either end

Tyre compressor with gunk option

Rat tail repair kit

Extendable breaker bar

Car jack

Variety of spanners, screwdrivers, zip ties

Car cover for the cabin in case of roof failure

500mm coolant

500mm engine oil

5 litre petrol

First aid kitIMG_1432.JPGIMG_1431.JPGIMG_0325.JPGIMG_0324.JPGIMG_0323.JPGIMG_0322.JPGIMG_0321.JPG
 
B21 said:
The season is open..a lot of my trips are multi day or even multi week, often far from support and logistics. The weather can turn and even if you’re great shape sometimes your pals aren’y.



Here’s my touring ‘payload’..in particular order..minor and major detail..

5 pairs of glasses: bifocals clear and tinted, clear no prescription, yellow tinted, plus reading glasses

2 tins boiled sweets

Matching yellow scarf, leather driving gloves

Spare hat and golf umbrella

1kg dry powder fire extinguisher

Android phone with BimmerGeeks Protool , charger pack, spare cables and wifi dongle

3 High performance PMR radios

2 Emergency hi viz vests

1 Hi viz fully insulated water proof jacket

Full size 326M with 235/40 19 Conti SC7..can be used at either end

Tyre compressor with gunk option

Rat tail repair kit

Extendable breaker bar

Car jack

Variety of spanners, screwdrivers, zip ties

Car cover for the cabin in case of roof failure

500mm coolant

500mm engine oil

5 litre petrol

First aid kitView attachment 291884View attachment 291885View attachment 291886View attachment 291887View attachment 291888View attachment 291889View attachment 291890
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No spare undies? 😱😂
 
B21 said:
The season is open..a lot of my trips are multi day or even multi week, often far from support and logistics. The weather can turn and even if you’re great shape sometimes your pals aren’y.



Here’s my touring ‘payload’..in particular order..minor and major detail..

5 pairs of glasses: bifocals clear and tinted, clear no prescription, yellow tinted, plus reading glasses

2 tins boiled sweets

Matching yellow scarf, leather driving gloves

Spare hat and golf umbrella

1kg dry powder fire extinguisher

Android phone with BimmerGeeks Protool , charger pack, spare cables and wifi dongle

3 High performance PMR radios

2 Emergency hi viz vests

1 Hi viz fully insulated water proof jacket

Full size 326M with 235/40 19 Conti SC7..can be used at either end

Tyre compressor with gunk option

Rat tail repair kit

Extendable breaker bar

Car jack

Variety of spanners, screwdrivers, zip ties

Car cover for the cabin in case of roof failure

500mm coolant

500mm engine oil

5 litre petrol

First aid kit
Click to expand...

Your power to weight ratio has just dropped to 100/tonne 🤣😂
 
Well today, in the East of England it's a glorious, glorious day. So today Mathew I actually went for a fun spirited drive to a country pub with the roof down while actually moving. The first time since buying the car at the end of January I have had the time and the weather has been on my side. I walk to work so the Z4 is just a weekend toy. The engine SINGS!! I love it so much!

The roof opened when I left and closed on my return,. no drama - PHEW! Had to mop up the residual water in the boot on my return, as is the way (I have all the trim off), I think I have sealed and fixed all the leaks but the pesky stored water is still hanging around. This has become my ritual. However it does not detract from the oh so lovely 3.0l N52, its intoxicating. Sun shining, roof down, tunes on, Sport+ and manual mode, wide country lanes, Its what the car was made for!

Oh, and before my drive I changed the boot/trunk struts for two brand new Stabilus struts and also put a line of sealant around the boot seal and pesky corner bits. I had already sealed the corner bits underneath but figured I would do a line of sealant around the whole boot seal. I still need to do the roof struts, and have a homemade compression tool, but I'll maybe tackle that tomorrow as its scary. I also Gummi Phledged the roof rubber and passenger door (While I was at the pub as they have a big car park), and put a bit of silicon grease on the roof latches.
 

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