Ducklakeview said:
Was yours not a torx head then?
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
- Thread starter Ducklakeview
- Start date
Was yours not a torx head then?
bladeowner said:
Yes, they are E10 male torx, which are obviously six sided and just happen to be 7.86mm across, so the spanner fits perfectly!
Mike
Great tip! Hopefully I won't have to adjust mine again. 
I've got a set of torx sockets but for that sort of job a cheap set of torx ring spanners from fleabay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Siegen-by-Sealey-Torx-Ring-Spanner-Set-TRX-Star-E6-E8-E10-E12-E14-E18-E20-E24-/400688543932?epid=1505253334&hash=item5d4ae5f8bc:g:ttgAAOSwu4BV1fAi
doesn't add much to the job and might get you out of trouble once in a while. But.... if I can have a quick rant why use so many different 'spanner systems' on a car. Just done the DMF on a ford and need four different sets of socket/spanner drives. Gerrr....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Siegen-by-Sealey-Torx-Ring-Spanner-Set-TRX-Star-E6-E8-E10-E12-E14-E18-E20-E24-/400688543932?epid=1505253334&hash=item5d4ae5f8bc:g:ttgAAOSwu4BV1fAi
doesn't add much to the job and might get you out of trouble once in a while. But.... if I can have a quick rant why use so many different 'spanner systems' on a car. Just done the DMF on a ford and need four different sets of socket/spanner drives. Gerrr....
Crazy Harry said:
No good for this job, not enough swing room to use them, only a flex head ratchet spanner would fit. I have a similar set of E-torx spanners which are slimmer than those in your link and they wouldn't work as not ratchet headed.
Mike
Hi hi, hi ho, it's off for a refurb we go....
Mike
Mike
Ducklakeview said:
I bought these and managed to get them undone but I could just have been lucky that there was enough angle to undo. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/4-PC-Professional-Female-Star-Torx-Spanner-Set/1743399533?_trksid=p2047675.m4097.l9055
Ducklakeview said:
When I had a restock of tools (thanks to some passing Pikies and Aviva) I got metric combination spanners each in three length sizes. Gets me into most spaces or applies enough torque. Can't get on with the idea of 'obstruction spanners' though - have found a socket on the end of a square drive flexible shaft screw driver can be a life saver even if you have to gaffer tape all the socket; drive converters and shaft together!
adam1985 said:
YES!
Mike
Ducklakeview said:
Continued...
Once that's done, remove the "other half" of the top cover - I always forget...
I also remove this bolt at the front, which gives a bit more "wiggle room" on the harness, and makes getting the cover off easier.
Then remove and mark the coil packs, 1-4 - Not strictly necessary, but I like things to go back where they came from.
Then unbolt the 10mm bolts holding the cover in place, they are "captive" so won't fall out onto the undertray
View attachment 8
And lift the cover clear
Don't forget the 2nd gasket around the valvetronic motor, they usually fall out and remain on the head.
I then clean to cover with brake cleaner, paying attention to the grooves where the gasket sits.
And then clean the mating surfaces on the head using either a proper gasket scraper, or a sharpened piece of hardwood, so as not to gouge the alloy surface. It needs to be CLEAN, with all traces of old gasket and/or sealant removed.
Fit the new gaskets to the cam cover, putting a little RTV sealant at the corners of the half moon shaped ends, I've marked the areas.
Then it's back on, torque the bolts evenly to 9nm, and reassemble in reverse..
Leak cured
Mike
Attachments
Quick little fix last night I forgot about - For some reason the finish on the side of the lower column shroud was blistered..
Luckily, I kept hold of the old shroud from mine, as I got a factory cut one with my cruise, 2 mins to swap, and looks lots better..
I like a cheap and quick fix!
Mike
Luckily, I kept hold of the old shroud from mine, as I got a factory cut one with my cruise, 2 mins to swap, and looks lots better..
I like a cheap and quick fix!
Mike
A bit of paint correction today...
Decided to tackle the couple of marks/scratches on the car today, in readiness for the dentman tomorrow.
First off, I foamed and washed the car, giving the roof a scrub with a soft bristled brush and a touch of upholstery shampoo. The water on the hood was brown with dirt, interspersed with a bit of green from the algae! I then power washed it until the water was clear, the hood looked a LOT better after this.
Then to decontaminate the car, I used a Nanoskin Autoscrub 6" pad on my DA - I LOVE these, not cheap but do a fantastic job in a fraction of the time it takes using clay.
The pad on the DA, feels like hard rubber, with a soft foam interface. I use it with Autosmart's spray wax detailer
Once this was done I spotted a few marks I'd not noticed before, probably as the car was filthy..
This on the bonnet being the worst.. Couple more marks on the drivers door and quarter, and the passenger quarter too..
So, out with the paint thickness gauge on the bonnet, 106 microns in the scratched area indicated factory paint..
So out with the 75mm air DA, an interface pad and 1500 disc. Plenty of water too.
Quick hit with the 1500, followed by 3000 and 4500 discs, and the bonnet looked like this.
I also gave the other areas the same treatment
Then out with the big DA and megs 105 followed by 205 compounds and job done, or so I thought.. A quick check on the scratched area on the bonnet showed that with 3 lots of sanding discs, followed by a couple of passes with each compound, I had managed to remove the grand total of ONE MICRON from the paint...
However, this was enough, as the scratched area now looked like this.
However, I spotted a few other marks, so ended up wet sanding the whole bonnet, tops of wings, doors, rear quarters and bootlid lol...
Mike
Decided to tackle the couple of marks/scratches on the car today, in readiness for the dentman tomorrow.
First off, I foamed and washed the car, giving the roof a scrub with a soft bristled brush and a touch of upholstery shampoo. The water on the hood was brown with dirt, interspersed with a bit of green from the algae! I then power washed it until the water was clear, the hood looked a LOT better after this.
Then to decontaminate the car, I used a Nanoskin Autoscrub 6" pad on my DA - I LOVE these, not cheap but do a fantastic job in a fraction of the time it takes using clay.
The pad on the DA, feels like hard rubber, with a soft foam interface. I use it with Autosmart's spray wax detailer
Once this was done I spotted a few marks I'd not noticed before, probably as the car was filthy..
This on the bonnet being the worst.. Couple more marks on the drivers door and quarter, and the passenger quarter too..
So, out with the paint thickness gauge on the bonnet, 106 microns in the scratched area indicated factory paint..
So out with the 75mm air DA, an interface pad and 1500 disc. Plenty of water too.
Quick hit with the 1500, followed by 3000 and 4500 discs, and the bonnet looked like this.
I also gave the other areas the same treatment
Then out with the big DA and megs 105 followed by 205 compounds and job done, or so I thought.. A quick check on the scratched area on the bonnet showed that with 3 lots of sanding discs, followed by a couple of passes with each compound, I had managed to remove the grand total of ONE MICRON from the paint...
However, this was enough, as the scratched area now looked like this.
However, I spotted a few other marks, so ended up wet sanding the whole bonnet, tops of wings, doors, rear quarters and bootlid lol...
Mike
Boot paint and closeup reflection..
It's starting to look the part..
Mike
It's starting to look the part..
Mike
