Vanne's 2014 28i
- Thread starter Vanne
- Start date
Yesterday I did a couple of little things while I wait for my next trip to be over to make a decision on what suspension iam keeping for the car. I’d like to go with the b12 sports system that arrived last week, but my mind says that’s over investing in the car. The KW at the front are stiff as , but work ok, the rear shocks I’ll replace with my Clubsport shocks.. again, it’s parts I have lying around doing nothing.. so that would be better than what I payed for the b12 setup.
Anyways, if I haven’t heard from desertcart when I get back from my next trip to Africa, I’ll bite the bullet and install the b12 set. Then alignment and then finally take her out for a long run. I’ll change the oil first too.
Which leads me to another question.. auto box oil change? Should I do that or not?
And yesterday I did a few small jobs like replacing the start button and a few (2)of the aircon control buttons as they have been scratched probably by the previous girl owner with long nails I would imagine?
I also bought some nice Alcantara trim coverings for the dash, and I’ll install them when it comes time to install the new radio/screen, as I’ll need to remove the trim for that anyways. Going to send off the steering wheel for Alcantara recovering too. (Prob in a few weeks when I am done with the mechanical side of things) yeah looking at you roofy roof mate..
Anyways, if I haven’t heard from desertcart when I get back from my next trip to Africa, I’ll bite the bullet and install the b12 set. Then alignment and then finally take her out for a long run. I’ll change the oil first too.
Which leads me to another question.. auto box oil change? Should I do that or not?
And yesterday I did a few small jobs like replacing the start button and a few (2)of the aircon control buttons as they have been scratched probably by the previous girl owner with long nails I would imagine?
I also bought some nice Alcantara trim coverings for the dash, and I’ll install them when it comes time to install the new radio/screen, as I’ll need to remove the trim for that anyways. Going to send off the steering wheel for Alcantara recovering too. (Prob in a few weeks when I am done with the mechanical side of things) yeah looking at you roofy roof mate..
Scottish Borders
recon I am getting pretty good at this, just swapped out the front KW's for the B12 set, tomorrow ill do the rears. also figured out how to tighten up the control arms with weight on wheels. 68 nm for the frame side (with 90 degree turn) and 80nm on the knuckle side. though my electronic torque meter sucks ass, needs new batt.
I also ordered a new set of uprated coils and colder plugs. and ordered a 4" downpipe. ill have a look at the intercooler a bit lateron, but i wanna run 300hp in this thing..
just need a tune for that... well i gotta drive it a bit first and, blow the cob webs out of it, and fix the roof, but thats the end game..
Just a note on the B12 kit… a bit disappointing really when you gotta go scavenge the old sets top hats and rubbers.. that’s pretty sheit.. lucky I haddent binned them yet. Oh and yeah punched a nice hole in my thumb with a oring pick, trying to get the rubber seat align pin to go through the frikkin hole.. nice..
I also ordered a new set of uprated coils and colder plugs. and ordered a 4" downpipe. ill have a look at the intercooler a bit lateron, but i wanna run 300hp in this thing..
just need a tune for that... well i gotta drive it a bit first and, blow the cob webs out of it, and fix the roof, but thats the end game..
Just a note on the B12 kit… a bit disappointing really when you gotta go scavenge the old sets top hats and rubbers.. that’s pretty sheit.. lucky I haddent binned them yet. Oh and yeah punched a nice hole in my thumb with a oring pick, trying to get the rubber seat align pin to go through the frikkin hole.. nice..
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Ok, rears done, now the front right, that’s the last bit.. should be easy.. then go and get a wheel alignment.. 2 m18 bolts missing from rear rear wards strut brace.. replaced with e86 ones I had left over. Right rear spring was a bit of a bastard to do, had to use a bottle jack to get it out and back in. The other side was a breeze. Again, bit annoyed the rears didn’t come with new spring pads.. I mean how much would that add to the price.. really..
James35i
Member
What's the plan with the MHD Adapter? I didn't realise they supported the N20, or is it possible to upload someone's remote tune with it?
Sigh…. While I was swapping the upper rear shock mounts, thought, might as well have a look at the reverse nd brake light not working.. hmm.. replaced the reverse light no issue, but the inner brake light has melted.. pretty sure the bulb is still in tact, maybe that’s why it got through the mot, but that’s not good, looks like I’ll need to replace the whole light as it’s melted the rear housing around the rear brake light.. sigh..
But it will need to wait, I’ve removed the inner brake filament, as I’ll need proper access with the boot open the other way to fix this properly. Hopefully I’ve isolated the light, I’ll check when I next start the car… so I’ll need to fix the roof first.. bloody hell....
Maybe no so bad after all, the outer brake light still works and I can code out the inner one.. will see.. or might just get a new light.
I forced the bulb holder through the middle bit to give me some more length to work on it to remove the filament. You can see even the holder has gotten way to hot.. wonder what spec the bulb is..
Zero identifying marks.
Looks similar to the proper spec one..(new one on left)
But it will need to wait, I’ve removed the inner brake filament, as I’ll need proper access with the boot open the other way to fix this properly. Hopefully I’ve isolated the light, I’ll check when I next start the car… so I’ll need to fix the roof first.. bloody hell....
Maybe no so bad after all, the outer brake light still works and I can code out the inner one.. will see.. or might just get a new light.
I forced the bulb holder through the middle bit to give me some more length to work on it to remove the filament. You can see even the holder has gotten way to hot.. wonder what spec the bulb is..
Zero identifying marks.
Looks similar to the proper spec one..(new one on left)
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No plan really aside from using bimmergeeks protool to check the functionality of the hall and micro switches. I could have easily used my Insta lappy, but this is easier.. I like easy…
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Looks like new light(s) time imhoSigh…. While I was swapping the upper rear shock mounts, thought, might as well have a look at the reverse nd brake light not working.. hmm.. replaced the reverse light no issue, but the inner brake light has melted.. pretty sure the bulb is still in tact, maybe that’s why it got through the mot, but that’s not good, looks like I’ll need to replace the whole light as it’s melted the rear housing around the rear brake light.. sigh..
But it will need to wait, I’ve removed the inner brake filament, as I’ll need proper access with the boot open the other way to fix this properly. Hopefully I’ve isolated the light, I’ll check when I next start the car… so I’ll need to fix the roof first.. bloody hell....
Maybe no so bad after all, the outer brake light still works and I can code out the inner one.. will see.. or might just get a new light.View attachment 297482
I forced the bulb holder through the middle bit to give me some more length to work on it to remove the filament. You can see even the holder has gotten way to hot.. wonder what spec the bulb is..View attachment 297483
Zero identifying marks.
View attachment 297484Looks similar to the proper spec one..(new one on left)
Typical problem is the red tint in the lights fades ..so a new one on one side looks much stronger red than the old one…
Anyway it’s your project…
Cheers, yeah I’ll keep an eye open for em. Just got back from the alignment, and no you can’t tighten the stuff up on jacks trying to simulate weight on wheels, just not possible. It took me like 15 minutes under the car at the alignment joint while it was on the lift.
Waaay out of spec .. everything, but slipped the guy an extra 100ead and he did a grand job, and didn’t mind that I was doing stuff as well.
Waaay out of spec .. everything, but slipped the guy an extra 100ead and he did a grand job, and didn’t mind that I was doing stuff as well.
went for a hoon this afternoon after the car being parked outside in the stinking hot sun all morning as i was cleaning up my mancave/garage.. then started the car and then noticed that the screen only came half up, up it up fully by hand and the screen still works, just doesnt go up or down electrically anymore, is there a fuse for that puppy?
on hoon note:
man quite a bit of poke for a 4 banger.. not bad at all. not sure i like the blinker system, how does that work, soft touch? 3 flashes? make it click, and it stays on forever? and you have to cancel it? The ride is pretty ... rough.. man you can feel everything in the road.. iam not sure these B12's (actually B8's with matched eibach springs) are any less pokey than the KW's i just pulled off, though i didnt get much of a drive with those on.
No doubt ill get used to it. but yeah, quite a bit of punch for a 4 banger..
on hoon note:
man quite a bit of poke for a 4 banger.. not bad at all. not sure i like the blinker system, how does that work, soft touch? 3 flashes? make it click, and it stays on forever? and you have to cancel it? The ride is pretty ... rough.. man you can feel everything in the road.. iam not sure these B12's (actually B8's with matched eibach springs) are any less pokey than the KW's i just pulled off, though i didnt get much of a drive with those on.
No doubt ill get used to it. but yeah, quite a bit of punch for a 4 banger..
Default (prior to muppets coding) is one touch does 3 links, full prod stays on, never been a fan of B12s.(eibach springs designed for decent German roads) .for Scotland very inappropriate IMHO..if its car that only goes out on well made roads on sunny days..maybe..stock springs or msport springs with B6/B8 different ball game..
N20 in 28i guise especially remapped can be very nice..mine was at 305bhp and a flat torque curve could easily stay with any stock E89..
Not one of my greatest decisions to part with it..
N20 in 28i guise especially remapped can be very nice..mine was at 305bhp and a flat torque curve could easily stay with any stock E89..
Not one of my greatest decisions to part with it..
I use a series of axle stands for the discs to sit on to get proper ARB / steering linkage aligment
I just came back from taking the missus on a date night, we had a few things to celebrate, didnt take the 28i, but the tundra, but as i walked back in the garage, i gotta say, its sitting really bloody low at the back, prob too low... ill look at it tomorrow, otherwise ill be swapping the rear springs back in that were in there when i got it. might even consider swapping the front springs back in too.. ill give it a few more drives...
i did read somewhere that you did like the N20 shot e89, prob had something to do with me getting one, as i purposely bought the N20 as it was reported as the better handling car, though really now i may find that i was looking for a cruiser all along.. lol.. awell its good to have options. the rear springs are super easy to swap out.. so not a biggie..
Maybe it’s a play on the eyes.. I just went for a fang, and took these pics before heading off
In the pics you can see it def sits lower on the left (left hand drive, even though the part numbers on the rear springs are exactly the same.. is it possible one is lower? Might swap the springs around? The rear ones anyways? The front springs were coded with a L and R after the part number, so that’s easy to do. This set shipped from the US, so I’d imagine it’s set up for left hand drive.. or am I just being too anal?
Oh yeah nose kidneys still out, I chucked the pair that was in there in the bin. I’ve got the new ones already, just can’t be arsed to chuck em back in while iam going through diagnosing this project.
Speaking of which, I took my son for a fang yesterday and the bloody thing was making such bad creaking noises at the front.. if I didn’t have any experience with zeds before this, that might have really worried me..
Yep you guessed it, the right hand strut bar was loose.. so I torqued that puppy up nice and tight and this morning when for another fang, creaks gone..
In the pics you can see it def sits lower on the left (left hand drive, even though the part numbers on the rear springs are exactly the same.. is it possible one is lower? Might swap the springs around? The rear ones anyways? The front springs were coded with a L and R after the part number, so that’s easy to do. This set shipped from the US, so I’d imagine it’s set up for left hand drive.. or am I just being too anal?
Oh yeah nose kidneys still out, I chucked the pair that was in there in the bin. I’ve got the new ones already, just can’t be arsed to chuck em back in while iam going through diagnosing this project.
Speaking of which, I took my son for a fang yesterday and the bloody thing was making such bad creaking noises at the front.. if I didn’t have any experience with zeds before this, that might have really worried me..
Yep you guessed it, the right hand strut bar was loose.. so I torqued that puppy up nice and tight and this morning when for another fang, creaks gone..
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